Street Clutch Recommendtions

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MICHAEL J KLOCK

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Looking for clutch recommendations for my 410 Stroker engine. I'm going to use the Quick Time Bell housing, I have a McLeod 130 tooth flywheel and was thinking about the clutch pressure plate package in the picture. Its a 10.5 23 spline package. Any one running one of these clutchs? Thanks! MJK

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Another question, is the diaphragm type pressure plate better than the finger type? I know with the diagram type you have to remove the stock pedal return spring.
 
Better? Only in pedal pressure being lighter. If that is what you want. I’ve run both. In the street, the diaphragm is easier on the leg and it is a plus in traffic.
Actual holding pressure can be found through the manufacturer for what you need.

Not to be a jerk, dump that fan for a MP Viscous unit 5 blade fan and gain back some lower. Shorty headers? Your call for clearance/ fitment issues, OK fine.
 
Yea with the diagram you remove that big spring. I’ve never used a diagram clutch before so I don’t have experience to comment about it.

My clutch pedal felt just fine with the 3 finger borg & beck. It’s not unbearably stiff, I drove the car in California Bay Area traffic for a year... it was okay with me.
 
I recently installed a Ram clutch in my stock 318 V8 pickup. It's their 11"? (slightly larger than stock 10.5") borg and beck style clutch, P/N 88773. I purchased the 2800# pressure plate and it works fine and it feels just as light as any diaphram style, stock or hipo, I've ever driven. They sell the same unit with a 3500#? pressure plate and for high HP applications I'd choose that one.
 
I have run the MP strip units and there a bit tough for a dual purpose machine. They were Hays clutches.
 
The diaphragm PP's spring design typically starts out gaining clamp pressure as the disc wears, then at about the mid point of disc wear the pressure curve levels out and begins to gradually lose clamp pressure for the rest of the disc's life. Basically you end up with about the same clamp pressure at the end of the disc's life as you had when it was new.

The B&B and Long designs use conventional coil springs, which only lose clamp pressure as the disc wears. That means you must start out with a wide margin of extra spring pressure when the disc is new, just to have enough clamp pressure to hold at the end of the disc's life when it is thin.

Hypothetical example, lets say a given combo needs at least 2800lbs of clamp pressure to hold a given engine's torque.
...With a diaphragm setup you might start out at 2800lbs with a new disc, gradually increasing to about 3150lbs at the mid point of wear, then gradually decreasing to about 2800lbs by the end of the disc's life.
...With a Long or B&B, you would have to start out at about 3500lbs with a new disc in order to still have the required 2800lbs when the disc is used up.

Diaphragm starts out at it's minimum pedal effort, while the B&B starts out with it's maximum pedal effort. Obviously the B&B clutch pedal is going to feel quite a bit stiffer when new compared to a new diaphragm setup of similar capacity.

Grant
 
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