1. barbee6043

    barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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    I hate using the stuff and I read while back that they changed the formular for aircraft stripper and it is weak now. Right now I don't have a big enough compressor to run the DA and take to bare metal. Is there a stripper that is worthwhle now????
     
  2. Princess Valiant

    Princess Valiant Duster specialist FABO Gold Member

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    Electric DA sander. Gets rid of the annoying compressor, eliminates the dangers of wet chemicals, and works great.

    Harbor freight has them for 40 bucks

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    • Mouse action

      Mouse action Well-Known Member

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      any of you cats know Minni the Moocher ?
      I once knew a stripper named Minni Mazzola !
       
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      • Professor Fate

        Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

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        Okay, I'll give the cheesey answer. Forgive me.
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        • Treblig

          Treblig Well-Known Member

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          Yes the title is very deceiving!!!:mad::mob::poke::soapbox:
           
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          • Princess Valiant

            Princess Valiant Duster specialist FABO Gold Member

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            They did change the formula but I have not used the new formula yet. I can say the shit has gone up in price. They want 67 dollars with tax at my local paint rip off, I mean paint store.

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          • Oldmanmopar

            Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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            I use the cheapest stripper you can get at lowes. Brush in one direction and let set the cut what you can off at an angle with a single edgs blade then re brush. Once your primer, Brush again and then use coarse steel wool. make sure to tape all seams and never strip to the edge. I refuse to sand paint off panels. With stripper you see whats under the paint the brown car that was factory paint. look at the grinder marks underthe primer. There was also bondo under the factory paint filling small dents. You won't see this if you DA the car. Also DA's make heat need I say more. I included pics of an orange Duster also. I paint strip everything even fenders that I repair.

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            • 65 Dartman

              65 Dartman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I’ve always used a product called Tal Strip. Haven’t priced it or used it recently so can’t vouch for it’s current strength or price. I will say it’s probably watered down as when I used ut, it was pretty nasty - eye protection, gloves and long sleeve shirt type protection.
               
            • Oldmanmopar

              Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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              The price at supply store went to almost $50 a gal. Cheap stuff at lowes $20 a gal.
               
            • 383Scampman

              383Scampman Well-Known Member

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              Aircraft stripper is crap . I think you're money and time ahead by having it blasted . You don't have to use black beauty , per say . there's walnut shells, rice hulls , plastic pellets and other media that won't warp the metal . A real pro will know whichto use .
               
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              • Oldmanmopar

                Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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                The down side of blasting is the media keeps on flowing out years later. Ask me how I know. Blasted it in 1983. bought it back in 2010. The trailer was covered in media from the trip home.

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                • Syleng1

                  Syleng1 Karma is real and Life is short... FABO Gold Member

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                  Ah yes. The dreaded black beauty run off. I had to blow my shell out possibly 20 times before I laid primer. Once prime was on it locked in the sand. By that time the stuff was all out except the rockers. Those places held sand for months to come. C9B46BB8-2261-4EC9-BC8A-A853EAE36811.jpeg
                   
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                  • ChrisRomello

                    ChrisRomello Well-Known Member

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                    80 grit is your best friend. I’m stripping the remaining paint on my car this weekend before primer. It only really sucks when there’s layers andlayers of paint underneath!
                     
                  • dicksmidlac

                    dicksmidlac Well-Known Member

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                    Just used this stuff on my fender with original paint and worked great.Brush it on waited 5 min and scraped off.One coat for paint and another for primer.It took just over an hour for the fender.No toxic smell and swept it up like dry paper when I was done.

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                  • harrisonm

                    harrisonm Well-Known Member

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                    Here is my $0.02. If you are completely blowing the car apart, I would (and did) use paint stripper. As you can see, I had some really good help! If the car is going to be completely disassembled, the parts could be thoroughly cleaned off and rinsed; leaving no problems for the future. If you don't completely disassemble the car, I would not use stripper. IMHO, there is too much of a chance that some of the chemical could hide in a nook or cranny and cause some unpleasant problems later. Then, I'd go with 80 grit sandpaper on a DA. Lots of 80 grit. I see people using a sanding disc too long thinking they are being wise and frugal. "This sanding disc is still cutting OK. Too Early to change it." If you use the disc past the point where it is cutting well, you are wasting time. When I feel the disc is no longer cutting well, I put on a new one. It may cost a few bucks more, but it will be faster.

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                    • harrisonm

                      harrisonm Well-Known Member

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                      r
                      I truly know you a Mopar Body Work Genius, but I have two questions. First, I use paint stripper all the time, so I am not really disagreeing with you. If you use 80 grit in a DA and take it down to bare metal, How are you not going to see the Bondo? And does a DA with 80 grit cause enough heat to cause a problem? I bet the surfaces get hotter in the sun on a hot July day.
                       
                    • Bodyperson

                      Bodyperson Pedal to the metal

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                      It was banned for consumer sales. It is still available for commercial use. Maybe you can find some that way. I found a site that sells it but you have to apply. I was thinking of contacting a big boat restoration business. Otherwise, I've heard the Sunny Side product works OK. Cant prove that as I have not run out of my supply of the good stuff yet. I think it's a lot slower than the old aircraft stripper. The kicker to the whole deal is that you can buy all of the Methylene Chloride that you want. Over the counter. Maybe time to try some mad scientist skills. lol
                       
                      Last edited: Jan 4, 2021
                    • dirty white boy

                      dirty white boy 50 yr old Juvenal delinquent

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                      damn,..thought he meant pole dancers,....frigging paint remover, smdh!lolol
                       
                    • MoparMike1974

                      MoparMike1974 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      • Kendog 170

                        Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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                        All three work. I sand blasted my Hardtop and sanded my Ragtop. Try the cheap stuff as suggested. If it doesn''t do it. I agee an electric DA sander with 80 grit and more time to do it .
                         
                      • barbee6043

                        barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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                        Like I said, right now I only have an inadequate compressor to run a DA. I have a HF electric palm sander and I could spend a lifetime trying to strip with that with an 80 grit disk. Maybe a 40 would do it and not lave grooves in the metal! It works well for smoothing some filler.
                        I will call my PPG store and see if they have any decent stripper or try some other stuff you guys mentioned.

                        I never have understood why strippers like to climb those poles? Fantacy??
                         
                      • Jim Kueneman

                        Jim Kueneman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        If you are use to how the old Aircraft stripper worked you will be totally disappointed in anything you can buy today. I have not found anything that compares. The wife's Dart I ended up using sanding cookies and days under it blasting hood out in the driveway. It is really disappointing now...
                         
                        Last edited: Jan 4, 2021
                      • barbee6043

                        barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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                        I have always had a good compressor and DA ed off but did occasionally use stripper on hoods,etc. Those discs MoparMIke mentioned look interesting but I ain't gonna spend $$$$???? on such to do a whole car. Need to try so just to se. Good DA 80 grit is cheap enough per box. I will have a roof and a good compressor again here IF Lord willing if the China bug goes away!
                        I have one car that a PO took to bare metal and epoxy primed at some point in time. Just smoothing it out before recoat and go on. The other car is 45 year old OEM enamel and on there tougher than Chit.
                         
                      • Oldmanmopar

                        Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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                        How much sanding of the metal next to an area that you already have the paint sanded off of will you need to do. You will change the thickness in spots before all the paint is removed.

                        A hot summer day does heat the metal but the heat is uniform. Darts and Valiants including sport body styles have body lines that go down the sides. They are not round like other makes and models. Round always stays round. It may get rounder but it is not noticeable as easy as a flat panel.

                        Flat panels will not stay flat. and you will distort the lines and take the edges off. I do go over the panels with a DA to scratch the metal for primer but never sand the lines. Early Coronets and Chargers have lines that will disappear on the quarters when sanded. And sanding the paint out of the scallops and scoops is very hard to do.

                        One other ting is that a sanded car will rust when taken to bare metal. A paint removed you can leave set for years and no rust. This Demon below was stripped in 1999 aftre metal prepped it sat in a trailer since. It only has surface rust where it was touched. fingerprints? You can use this info or not. Most body shops have one thing in mind get it painted and get paid. Its not their car that they will be looking at in years to come. Never paint strip any seams.

                        There is a place near me called "ready strip". I guy I know had a 69 camaro dipped. After it was painted white years down the road all the seames turned yellow. Ray Barton had a Dart done. He ended up not using the body. Call Bartons and ask him why. Prep is the most important thing when painting the car. Removing all the old material is the first and most important part of that prep. Sure you can use primer filler and remake all those lines or feather edge that old paint. Its just not the proper way unless your going for thickness.LOL

                        I only Paint strip the outer sheet metal the rest is media blasted to remove the rust. Never blast the inside of the roof or quarters. if you do the panels will warp. I always blast the rockers and lower body after paint stripped to remove and small rust pits. Then apply Acid and then wash prime. then primer surfacer. Good luck on your project.

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                        • JDMopar

                          JDMopar Well-Known Member

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                          I used those to strip the last car I did, and was very happy with the results. They will typically last long enough to do one panel. They did not heat up the metal like grinder discs do. I have used Aircraft Stripper when it was the good stuff, a razor blade down to primer and then a DA, and the discs linked above (bought at Home Depot) and much prefer the soft discs. It all makes a dang mess, like any of the methods, but for me, it works best. I plan on using them on my 65 Barracuda when I light in on it soon.

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