Stroker cam suggestion

-
C

ChargerST

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2011
Messages
115
Reaction score
49
Location
Austria
Hi,
I'm in need of a cam for my 505 stroker (TF 240 heads) and have narrowed it down to a solid flat tappet cam in the 245-250 @ .050 range (street car, 3.33 rear gears, 4-speed). Talked to Dwayne Porter and he suggested a straight pattern Comp Cams XTQ lobe (278 adv., 248 @.050, 160 @.200, .566 lift (I want to run 1.6 rockers) on a 110 or 111 LSA. Choice is based on low/mid range torque (4000lbs street car), street manners and longevity.
Other suggestions were to run a tighter LSA of 108. Since I run power brakes and don't want too much smell at idle I thought about going slightly smaller if I run a tighter LSA and found the following lobe: FL276 (276 adv., 247 @.050, 161 @.200, .586 lift). This lobe is slightly more aggressive (29 vs. 30 degrees from advertised to .050 and 86 vs. 88 deg. from .050 to .200) but with a lower duration. If ground on a 108 LSA overlap is 60 degrees (vs. 58 with the first cam - 110 LSA).
Which of these two cams would you choose? Are the FL (Ford) lobes too aggressive for longevity and street duty?
Thanks
 
I’d follow Dwayne’s suggestion. He is very good. The difference between the two cams is small.
 
I think he's not in the ballpark, but that's just me. With those heads, you will leave a LOT on the table without a roller. So, with that in mind, I think somethin like 255/265 .650/.675 on a 112 would better suit it.

Strokers like wide LSAs a lot better. I don't know where the narrow stuff is comin from. Of course this is one redneck's opinion.

Copyright 2018 RustyRatRod
All rights reserved
 
So a 505 Stroker for mild Street build is kind of a laugh to begin with. If you're going to go big go big don't go big and then go small? that don't make no sense. Build a small block Stroker and put a medium cam in it and then you'll have a medium street rod. Is this like swimming halfway across the ocean and getting tired and swimming back?
 
Narrow numbers 108/106 etc... come from adding in the top end punch and seem to favor dig engines drag racing. Most of the time. BUT, there’s more to it than that.

I have seen many dyno runs, read many articles, read a bunch of books with there dyno charts included.

Nothing is in stone as far as I’m concerned.

The MP engines book has been my guide for a long time and has not let me down in there suggestions. Larry Shepard has written a few books in his post “Head Performance Engineer” post at Chrysler.

There are a few smart guys and a few engine builders here.

All have a different idea of what can they would run and would get no two fella would choose the same cam.

It’s a big freaking engine! It’s gonna make power with almost anything you stuff in there.

Though I like rusty rat rods cam for my own personal tastes.
 
Thanks for the input so far. Afaik the narrow LSA should increase low/mid rpm torque and not top end at the price of a narrower power band.

Other suggestions were (all lift numbers with 1.6 rockers):
Hughes 250/254 @.050, 108 LSA, .627/.640 lift
Jones Cams 252/255 @.050, 110 LSA .582/.592 lift
 
Dwayne is a good dude.... Let me take a shot in the dark here about the setup of your car.... You want to drive it around and it enjoy it. You probably don't have everything to run a sub 11.50 in the quarter. And you don't want to wrench on it every weekend. If I am close, that camshaft will give you more than a plenty to enjoy...

You are leaving some power on the table but if Dwayne asked you what your intent with the car is then he gave you a recommendation based on that.

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Dwayne is a good dude.... Let me take a shot in the dark here about the setup of your car.... You want to drive it around and it enjoy it. You probably don't have everything to run a sub 11.50 in the quarter. And you don't want to wrench on it every weekend. If I am close, that camshaft will give you more than a plenty to enjoy...

You are leaving some power on the table but if Dwayne asked you what your intent with the car is then he gave you a recommendation based on that.

JW
Click to expand...
Each of these guys make a good point. I think ur close to the ball park, but w/ all that weight, I wouldn`t get too hairy on the cam, unless ur going to run some deeper gears. As an example, my car weighs 3278 w/o me in it, 440/505" wedge, raised port heads, full auto., 3:73 gears. My cam is a comp (picked by me) 254/260 @.50, .620/.628 w/ the 1/6 (hughs) rocker arms. it is very docile and controllable, but will turn sideways in a heartbeat upon stabbing it. If I had it to do over, I`d run 1/5 rockers, even tho my heads will probably flow a little more than yours. Don`t get carried away w/ the h.p. thing unless ur going to run it a lot. I wanted to do some more racing when I started this build, but after 7 yrs to build it , I wish I`d made it more of a driver! Hope this helps--------bob
 
Bob makes a good point there. You really don’t need a lot of cam to have an engine perform. You’ll get a lot back from the cam when your heads flow like a dam that broke. It’s amazing how much hp can come from a small cam high flow head combo.


Edit, spelling
 
Last edited:
Nothing wrong with leaving some power on the table in a street car that you'd like to have decent manners in.

THe large cubic inch and milder cam makes for a fun, well mannered street car that will easily hit low to mid 11's.

Of the 2 original cams proposed I'd pick the 248 @.050, .566 lift on a 111 LSA.

I also like RRR's suggestion as well.

While I'd certainly think a custom grind would be the way to go with this engine. Crane make a 254/258@.050, .590 lift, 112LSA that I think would be real happy in your combo.
 
Good example of good head better head on a big engine.
(Well, for a small block that is....)
 
Yes I've got to unsubscribe to this thread I don't even see the purpose of putting a big block in an a body unless it's an all-out effort.
 
j par said:
Yes I've got to unsubscribe to this thread I don't even see the purpose of putting a big block in an a body unless it's an all-out effort.
Click to expand...
Maximum Street effort/fun! It does not need to be a drag race effort to put a big block and A body.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Good example of good head better head on a big engine.
(Well, for a small block that is....)
Click to expand...

You disagreed that I don't see a purpose? Maybe you see a purpose? But I don't know how you can disagree with how I feel? I'm lying to myself and I don't feel that way? LOL
 
rumblefish360 said:
Maximum Street effort/fun! It does not need to be a drag race effort to put a big block and A body.
Click to expand...
Well of course not! Just for me personally if you don't mind? I would not put a big block in an abody with all the potential of a small block that's easier to work on easier to find parts for to fit in an a body unless all the effort. I'm putting stuffing that in there and trying to work on it all stuffed in there for a bigger purpose then daily driving.
This is why I was opting out it because it becomes a small block vs Big Block argument when the original poster has a big block already in there and just wants some second opinions on a cam. That's why I opted out of the conversation instead of getting in arguments.
 
I'll giving my extremely limited experience also if it's needed? LOL I have two friends that have these big block strokers. One is in a 71 Cuda and with the big aftermarket headers there's barely enough for him to work on it LOL and the one that's in a 74 duster is a dual quad tunnel ram 9 second wheelie machine LOL
Edit: whatever you do have fun!!!
 
If you're worried about power brakes and idle, go with what Porter told you. He didn't just fall off the turnip truck and I suspect he, in talking with you understands what YOU want. That's a clean idle and power brakes.

Tighten up the LSA and you will make more mid and up power, but the curve will be a bit more narrow AND a bit more peaky, meaning after the peak the power curve will drop faster.

For you, I'd go with the Porter cam. For me, it would be totally different. Since I don't pay your bills...id follow Porters advice.
 
yellow rose said:
If you're worried about power brakes and idle, go with what Porter told you. He didn't just fall off the turnip truck and I suspect he, in talking with you understands what YOU want. That's a clean idle and power brakes.

Tighten up the LSA and you will make more mid and up power, but the curve will be a bit more narrow AND a bit more peaky, meaning after the peak the power curve will drop faster.

For you, I'd go with the Porter cam. For me, it would be totally different. Since I don't pay your bills...id follow Porters advice.
Click to expand...
See you need to stop being a follower and start being a leader and make changes!
Edit: and stop derailing threads everywhere!
 
Last edited:
j par said:
Yes I've got to unsubscribe to this thread I don't even see the purpose of putting a big block in an a body unless it's an all-out effort.
Click to expand...

I can see that point of view. I mean, biggest engine you can stuff in it, go balls out, makes sense.

I like them, or stroked small blocks, for their street friendly behavior. You can have a nice mild mannered engine that makes great power, especially torque. Cammed right they have a nice broad powerband, also great in a street car. having owned LA and RB powered A bodies. I've always thought for a primarily street driven car, the big block is the way to go.
 
roccodart440 said:
I can see that point of view. I mean, biggest engine you can stuff in it, go balls out, makes sense.

I like them, or stroked small blocks, for their street friendly behavior. You can have a nice mild mannered engine that makes great power, especially torque. Cammed right they have a nice broad powerband, also great in a street car. having owned LA and RB powered A bodies. I've always thought for a primarily street driven car, the big block is the way to go.
Click to expand...
Oh I can stay tuned for an intelligent conversation that doesn't hinge on our egos! LOL and thank you for your Insight and I can very much respected as you've had both and can distinguish between the two. That's my problem I've never really drove in a body with a big block in it. I would always in my mind think that the extra weight on the street like in the city going around corners wouldn't be as favorable?
 
j par said:
Oh I can stay tuned for an intelligent conversation that doesn't hinge on our egos! LOL and thank you for your Insight and I can very much respected as you've had both and can distinguish between the two. That's my problem I've never really drove in a body with a big block in it. I would always in my mind think that the extra weight on the street like in the city going around corners wouldn't be as favorable?
Click to expand...

A big block with some lightweight parts on it weighs less than a small block and even in stock trim its a couple hundred pounds. Think of it this way, you ever drive your car with a 1/4 tank of gas? A quarter tank in an abody reduces the rear weight by approx. 90 lbs. You're half way to having a big block car weight bias.
 
Ahhhh, leave Jpar out of this. I think he took things in a I’ll manor not ment to be. Like he said, he’s leaving the thread.

Let’s get back to the topic.
 
roccodart440 said:
Nothing wrong with leaving some power on the table in a street car that you'd like to have decent manners in.

THe large cubic inch and milder cam makes for a fun, well mannered street car that will easily hit low to mid 11's.

Of the 2 original cams proposed I'd pick the 248 @.050, .566 lift on a 111 LSA.

I also like RRR's suggestion as well.

While I'd certainly think a custom grind would be the way to go with this engine. Crane make a 254/258@.050, .590 lift, 112LSA that I think would be real happy in your combo.
Click to expand...


The one in my 512 is 114 LSA. Dwayne did this to help with the signal for Fuel Injection which will probably never get put on the motor.

Big CI and a manual tranny makes for good times. And the with the final gear this motor will pull like a freight train after 40mph on the highway....

JW
 
ChargerST said:
Hi,
I'm in need of a cam for my 505 stroker (TF 240 heads) and have narrowed it down to a solid flat tappet cam in the 245-250 @ .050 range (street car, 3.33 rear gears, 4-speed). Talked to Dwayne Porter and he suggested a straight pattern Comp Cams XTQ lobe (278 adv., 248 @.050, 160 @.200, .566 lift (I want to run 1.6 rockers) on a 110 or 111 LSA. Choice is based on low/mid range torque (4000lbs street car), street manners and longevity.
Other suggestions were to run a tighter LSA of 108. Since I run power brakes and don't want too much smell at idle I thought about going slightly smaller if I run a tighter LSA and found the following lobe: FL276 (276 adv., 247 @.050, 161 @.200, .586 lift). This lobe is slightly more aggressive (29 vs. 30 degrees from advertised to .050 and 86 vs. 88 deg. from .050 to .200) but with a lower duration. If ground on a 108 LSA overlap is 60 degrees (vs. 58 with the first cam - 110 LSA).
Which of these two cams would you choose? Are the FL (Ford) lobes too aggressive for longevity and street duty?
Thanks
Click to expand...

For a street car with 3.23 rear gears I'd probably use a Mopar .528 solid or something close to it. The cam that Dwayne picked would work also but might be a bit big for you. I have a drawer full of small flat tappet cams and I've found over time that for a real street car smaller is better. I use a 246 hyd roller in the 512 low deck in my '65 Coronet and I wouldn't mind going one size smaller next time.
 
Chevy put a 224/234 hyd roller in the crate 502. That is a really nice engine for street rods and cars like a '57 Chevy or a cruiser Chevelle or stuff like that. The big strokers don't need a big cam to make lots of street friendly power. Nothing wrong with have a big stroker that idles nice and smooth and moves the car hard from zero to 100+ mph. How many times are you going to hold it wide open on the street anyway?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top