Stupid question but do I put my oil treatment in here?

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66DartSedan

66DartSedan

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Just look

1520796543906417759320.jpg
 
sure

unless you want to put it in the oil, shake it up, and then put it in there
 
diymirage said:
sure

unless you want to put it in the oil, shake it up, and then put it in

Okay thanks, I know it was dumb question just needed to know if this intact was where I add oil and oil treatments. Thanks
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well, the oil treatment (i guess you mean like a zinc additive or something) needs to go in the oil

that is where you put oil in the engine
 
What kind of oil "treatment" are you putting in? Virtually all such claimed "treatments" are, at best, of no benefit, and many of them can harm your motor.
 
Before you decide this is necessary or beneficial (it's not), read this and this and this and this and this and (etc).

It sounds like you're brand-new to Slant-6 ownership. There's a pretty hefty list of things worth doing before pouring random "magic" gunk into your crankcase.
 
Do NOT put engine flush in it. I did that when I got my first /6 and it killed the oil pump and turned on the light a few days later. All the junk came loose as I was driving it after the oil change.
 
Mopar-Man is right about engine "flush" damage. See here for longer reading on the subject.

Whether you're pouring assorted substances in or doing the smart thing and sticking to a good brand of an appropriate grade of oil, it's a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.
 
Listen to Dan. He is correct. There are a LOT of zinc additives on the market that contain NO zinc at all! I recommend STP oil treatment. NOT any of the store brand knock offs. They do not have zinc. STP does.

Either that, or run Lucas Hot Rod oil. It has zinc already in it.
 
66DartSedan said:
I was gonna put in zinc additive.
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Honestly, that would be completely overkill. With weak valve springs and a generally over-engineered basic design, just buy a quality oil and filter and be done with it.
As stated, You can end up causing issues, or simply getting ripped off. There are high ZDDP oils with a quality rep, if that's what You wish, buy them for the LOF when
it's time.
 
Current oils with "reduced" levels still contain as much or more ZDDP than the oils available in 1958 when the slant was designed. In every other way modern oils are vastly superior. If you want to use some "good stuff" fill it up with Rotella T6 and run it.
 
Forgive my stupid question but is this only related to slant 6's? I've lways read (or so I thought) to add zinc? I'e been using Lucas additive in my small block for years.
 
4spdragtop said:
Forgive my stupid question but is this only related to slant 6's?
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No. The idea of "needing" to add zinc is one of many myths that infests most areas of the old-car hobby.

I'e been using Lucas additive in my small block for years.
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That's a mistake. At best it's a waste of money; at worst it will damage your engine. See here.

(STP: like virtually all additives, it is not necessary or beneficial.)
 
This is all of course considering you are running the stock valve springs. If you have a higher than stock valve spring rate with a flat tappet camshaft, you do need a higher zinc level than most oils today have.

The Rotella is a fine suggestion, but ALL the Rotella has elevated zinc, not just the T6. The T4 conventional, the T5 blend also have higher zinc for use with diesel engines. Available with 15/40 or 5/40 grades, it's right on top of the grade most older engines can deal with.

....but even still I like the Lucas oil better. It has even more zinc (2400 PPM) than Rotella.

All that said, Dan is spot on unless you're running a higher than stock spring pressure with flat tappet stuff. Then you really need the anti scuff protection the zinc provides.

I've said this a lot and I'll say it again. The oil additive world (fuel additive too) is full of snake oil. It's tough to determine what works and what doesn't.
 
Running 273 with stock flat tappet valve train. 270 S comp cams camshaft.
340 going in will have similar setup. Man that Lucas makes that oil froth....makes me wonder....
Thanks guys!
***Edit*** running comp 901 springs
 
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add a jug of STP with every oil change and forget about it. too much internet BS.
 
I run 5w-40 T6 in My '87 carb'd 3.9L Dak(not for cam reasons obviously,lol), My '96 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L, and the '84 2.2 TurboI I built that I've beat the Bageezus
out of...................the first 2 are both at 150K+ with no problems other than they could both use a T-chain at this point, the last one I just took out of the LaserXE &
dropped it in the '87 Caravelle SE(had to make My own flexplate to do that) has the "slider" style cam/rockers...with the O/S intake valves, ported TB, open cat-back
exh. and modded oil drain-back filter fitting it's seen regular 6200-6300 RPM sustained beatings............
 
I think some of the "high mileage" oils have more zinc, but read the label and maybe download the MSDS sheets. Many "diesel" oils (CJ rated, Rotella, ...) have more zinc and are preferred in my 1980's M-B diesels since they have solid lifters (actually "followers" since they push down from the overhead cam, but slide regardless). The other special-sauce in diesel oils is more detergent to suspend more carbon, which is also good for gas engines though their oil doesn't get filthy black like diesels unless your rings are bad.
 
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