Summit Rollcage

-
M

Mopar87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
113
Reaction score
47
Location
Lewiston,Id
How many have installed a rollcage from summit or jegs?I am just wondering on the fitment to body.Are tubes tuck close enough to the body where you could still drive on the street or does it become a helmet only vehicle?I'm thinking of caging my 73 scamp for a bit more security but I dont want to wear a helmet just to go the grocery store.
 
you dont have wear a helmet on the street if you have a roll cage...no rule book on that...lol..

their roll cages are made by someone else probably selling a name brand cage under their name and marking it down a few dollars....but...
 
For me a roll bar does nothing because it wont reinforce the weakest part of the car-the A pillar.The B/C pillar on the scamp looks thick enough that it *might* not squish flat in the event of a rollover.The A pillar on the other hand would most definitely fold flat on even the most gentle rollover.
 
duster360 said:
S&W Race Cars
VOL 34 SWPG Catalog Web
These are great cages. I have used them before. They fit close to the roof and tight to the sides.
Click to expand...

They are oversized , u cut them to fit where u want them. I bent my side bars in an electricians bender, they came out just touching the door panels when the door is closed. The main hoop is with nhra specs, but clears my head a bunch w/o a helmit. No access to the back seat ( I don't have one anyway> business coupe.
 
so S&W is cut to fit that might not be that bad as long as they enough material to trim off enough to get the tubes within a 1/2" of the body. But what is with these cages that are grossly undersized? 1.5x.083 in a 3000+ lb car?I dont think so.
 
Last edited:
Mopar87 said:
so S&W is cut to fit that might not be that bad as long as they enough material to trim off enough to get the tubes within a 1/2" of the body. But what is with these cages that are grossly undersized? 1.5x.083 in a 3000+ lb car?I dont think so.
Click to expand...
I don't know what they were doing. 7-8 years ago when I was doing this, I bought the competition engineering brand cage. It was way short everywhere. Put the main hoop in the car and my helmet would stick up over it. It was way short of the roof. I am only 5'8" and seat was way low. I would put money on it the summit brand is the same as comp engineering brand, just under a different name.
 
So everywhere I have found says to attach the cage to reinforce the suspension mounting mounts.What is the best way to punch holes in the floor so the cage can be fully welded?Or is it better to cut access panels in the roof?
 
If you are still using leaf springs. Run the rear tubes from the main hoop, through the rear package tray and down to the frame, just past where the shock bolts are in the trunk. You don't need to cut access holes in the roof. What style of cage did you pick? 6,8,10 point?
 
I'll get a basic 8 pt rollcage, I can weld in the other tubes later.I am just wondering how to create room to weld the top of the tubes.If I put the rollcage in so its tight fitting without holes in the roof or floor I wont be able to weld all around some of the tubes.An article I read put a cage in but didnt even attempt to create access for those joints so every tube was only welded 3/4.I can weld fairly decent but I would feel much safer if the cage was completely welded at every connection with a bunch of "taco gussets" thrown in.
 
I did the Jegs Moroso competition engineering 8 point roll bar in my 73 Duster and it fit extremely well especially the hoop. A lot of slowly cutting pieces down to fit. Don't want to cut to much to quick and be short. The kit comes with 8 six by six plates you weld to the floor underneath each one of the bars. Place the 8 plates over the frame rails on top of the floorboard and weld them down all the way around. Tack the main hoop in and then the others.
I know the pinch point your talking about and it wasn't be easy to weld at that angle and some of it didn't look so great up on the top there or where you can't really see and nobody really looks but it was welded.
I remember with all this welding in all these fish plates this thing isn't really going nowhere it is stuck inside the cab of the car. And with that said this takes you from 11-5 down to 10 seconds flat before it has to be completely certified. Nobody's really going to look at the roll cage that closely once it's painted and everything. Of course we are talking about our safety and stuff like that and trust me you it will work. When I had my roll bar in there I didn't use the door swing out because I thought that would make it weak. I thought what's the point this is for my safety. Also remember this if your car doesn't do under 14 seconds and you don't have to wear a helmet you do have to wear a helmet because you have a cage. For the street you do have that like pipe protector you get from Home Depot to wrap around it. By no means it's going to save your head in an accident but just bumping around in there on a daily basis I will save you from getting a good Bonk.
I took my cage out last winter because I was not interested in spending the money that made the car go consistently under 11-5. 12-5 suits me just fine. Also of course being a 73 I put the stock doors back on and it has girders in the doors and more reinforcements. I'm quite honestly if you're thinking about going below 10 seconds I wouldn't even be considering a steel roll bar. And you better have extremely Deep Pockets cuz everything goes up under 10 seconds.
 
Does the rollbar/cage still have to be welded to the floor if there are subframe connectors, or can they pass through holes in the floor and weld to the connectors?
 
I cut out a section of flooring to bring my subframe connectors up into the floor where I was able to weld my main hoop gussets to the subframe connectors just enough to get the connectors to fit through, not an entire floor section. Then like J-par said use the plates in the competition engineering roll cage kit and it isn't going anywhere without tearing the floor out, subframe connectors out, etc. And yep, it's not easy or pretty to get a full weld around the top near the roof. The one I bought was from jegs and fit pretty well. I still need to weld in my door bars, but until I am done crawling in and out of it fitting seats, gauges and wiring I don't want to climb over the door bar.
 
20180518_175644.jpg
 
If I'm reading the NHRA rulebook correctly, the 6x6x1/8" plates are still required to be welded to the floor? It says, "Also, the roll bar may be welded to frame connectors that are fully welded in place..." but doesn't make clear if that can be used instead of the 6x6 plates.
 
The 6x6 plates are sufficient as not all cars are full framed. At least that's my understanding of how its written.
 
Yes, that's pretty clear. Unibody cars without a full frame can have 6x6 plates welded to the floor, or a plate on top and on the bottom, sandwiched by bolts.

What I'm trying to find out is, can the bars pass through a hole in the floor and be welded to the subframe connectors instead? Adding subframe connectors does not constitute a full frame according to the rule book, so I'm guessing "no".
 
DrCharles said:
Yes, that's pretty clear. Unibody cars without a full frame can have 6x6 plates welded to the floor, or a plate on top and on the bottom, sandwiched by bolts.

What I'm trying to find out is, can the bars pass through a hole in the floor and be welded to the subframe connectors instead? Adding subframe connectors does not constitute a full frame according to the rule book, so I'm guessing "no".
Click to expand...
Fine print warning.... "fully welded" sub frame connectors 6 X 6 will pass tech down to ten, Per Jpars point. After that you are deep pockets racing.( deepest pocket wins)
 
Agreed. 6 pt rollbar is OK down to 10.00 on unibody with unaltered firewall and floor. I (along with most of the "Mopers" here) will never have deep enough pockets to get out of the tens, so that's not a problem :rolleyes:
 
DrCharles said:
Agreed. 6 pt rollbar is OK down to 10.00 on unibody with unaltered firewall and floor. I (along with most of the "Mopers" here) will never have deep enough pockets to get out of the tens, so that's not a problem :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
And not to say most of us aren't a small shot of giggle juice away from shooting under 10 but who wants to do that to their car and then have to pay so much to race it gets ridiculous.
 
The car will likely never be on a dragstrip, but I do drive fast on gravel roads.When your pushing limits like that I dont believe its a matter of "IF" you roll, its more like "WHEN" you roll.So with that being said I'll probably end up making "pedestals" for some of the feet to sit on.When I get ready to weld the cage up I'll just remove the tacked in boxes,and then I can drop the cage down and weld the tops of tubes.With those boxes I can tie into the sills and the subframe connectors to make a very stout chassis.
 
j par said:
I did the Jegs Moroso competition engineering 8 point roll bar in my 73 Duster and it fit extremely well especially the hoop. A lot of slowly cutting pieces down to fit. Don't want to cut to much to quick and be short. The kit comes with 8 six by six plates you weld to the floor underneath each one of the bars. Place the 8 plates over the frame rails on top of the floorboard and weld them down all the way around. Tack the main hoop in and then the others.
I know the pinch point your talking about and it wasn't be easy to weld at that angle and some of it didn't look so great up on the top there or where you can't really see and nobody really looks but it was welded.
I remember with all this welding in all these fish plates this thing isn't really going nowhere it is stuck inside the cab of the car. And with that said this takes you from 11-5 down to 10 seconds flat before it has to be completely certified. Nobody's really going to look at the roll cage that closely once it's painted and everything. Of course we are talking about our safety and stuff like that and trust me you it will work. When I had my roll bar in there I didn't use the door swing out because I thought that would make it weak. I thought what's the point this is for my safety. Also remember this if your car doesn't do under 14 seconds and you don't have to wear a helmet you do have to wear a helmet because you have a cage. For the street you do have that like pipe protector you get from Home Depot to wrap around it. By no means it's going to save your head in an accident but just bumping around in there on a daily basis I will save you from getting a good Bonk.
I took my cage out last winter because I was not interested in spending the money that made the car go consistently under 11-5. 12-5 suits me just fine. Also of course being a 73 I put the stock doors back on and it has girders in the doors and more reinforcements. I'm quite honestly if you're thinking about going below 10 seconds I wouldn't even be considering a steel roll bar. And you better have extremely Deep Pockets cuz everything goes up under 10 seconds.
Click to expand...
------------------------------------------------------------------THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
EXCEPT U CAN DRILL TWO HOLES , JUST FORWARD OF WHERE UR MAIN HOOP IS GOING TO SET, WITH EVERYTHING CUT AND FITTED, LOWER THE WHOLE MESS TAPED AND BRACED TOGETHER IN THE POSITIONS THAT IT WILL BE IN (KINDA HARD TO DO) , THEN U CAN WELD AROUND THE WHOLE THING, BEFORE RAISING IT UP AND SLIDING IT BACK INTO POSITION ON THE 6X6 PLATES.
U can work it where the plates are actually welded to the frame connectors if yours come thru the floor too.
Then just patch the extra holes in the floor , and finish welding the rest of the cage.
I finally added the removable parts to my drivers side door, (sure helps a 72 yr old guy that needs to work under the dash) !
It doesn`t change anything reinstalling it or taking it out with even the car jacked up on one side.
Now if I could just get the car to hook !!

As always, dis regard the caps !!
 
Competition Engineering kit.
Fit well.
Slit floors to run subframe connectors, brace landed on it.
Hoop landed in corner of footwell on oversized landing pad.
No issues on street w/o helmet. I'm 6'-2".
100_0662.JPG
 
I'm a pretty big guy and I fit well in a competition engineering roll bar, but I think the point was your head in there with the roll bar as far as safety is concerned it's if anything happens and your head hits that bar? It really isn't safe without a helmet...
 
Roll bars in most cases are only safer when helmets and seat belts are worn. On the street, you are better off without one.

Post 21. Are you planning on rolling it? IF so, and that's your intentions (sounds like it's not a IF, it's a WHEN"), wear a helmet and seat belts when you drive along with the roll bar.
Dash cam for our entertainment :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top