Super Stock Headers

[DART505]

Mine are showing their age but no luck other than TTI.

 

[Demonracer]

Some one had a set of hemi headers for sale not too long ago.

 

[DART505]

Yes saw old post that someone had a set of current SS headers and I wanted those. Barton sad bring my car and $5000 for stainless set. Done on each car custom !

 

[DART505]

Got some commin. Thanks

 

[toolmanmike]

Got some commin. Thanks

Next time you are looking for parts, start a wanted thread.

 

[Malex]

I picked up a set off of Racing Junk a couple months back. Great guy and a good deal.

 

[ns1rm21]

TTI used my car to make there headers and they did a nice job building them. Just make sure your engine is sitting in the correct location when you installing them.

 

[ns1rm21]

I’m building a Cuda now to go along with my Dart and they fit perfectly as well. Little advice for you. You must use a mini starter and if your running a for speed you need to run a 130 tooth flywheel and aluminum bell housing. Any question or additional photos don’t hesitate to ask.

 

[Malex]

I’m building a Cuda now to go along with my Dart and they fit perfectly as well. Little advice for you. You must use a mini starter and if your running a for speed you need to run a 130 tooth flywheel and aluminum bell housing. Any question or additional photos don’t hesitate to ask. View attachment 1715561666

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Appreciate the info. Going with an automatic trans and the right side shock tower has been modified. I've moved the master cylinder over but it may not be enough. I have seen an aluminum offset block and that looks to move the MC more. Any advise on that, perhaps a part number for that aluminum block?

 

[famous bob]

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Appreciate the info. Going with an automatic trans and the right side shock tower has been modified. I've moved the master cylinder over but it may not be enough. I have seen an aluminum offset block and that looks to move the MC more. Any advise on that, perhaps a part number for that aluminum block?

View attachment 1715561676

I bought an alum. adapter block off of ebay , 1/2'' thick to go to the late model dual reservoir , forgot how much it moved it over , still had to mill the back lower fin down to get the valve cover off my wedge raised port heads . Have always wondered if it would come off if it were a hemi--------I did use flex brake lines to hook up to it , in case I had to loosen it and **** it side ways , but dont .

 

[DART505]

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Appreciate the info. Going with an automatic trans and the right side shock tower has been modified. I've moved the master cylinder over but it may not be enough. I have seen an aluminum offset block and that looks to move the MC more. Any advise on that, perhaps a part number for that aluminum block?

View attachment 1715561676

I'm imbarrised to show under my hood after looking at this! Love the lightweight motor !!

 

[Malex]

I bought an alum. adapter block off of ebay , 1/2'' thick to go to the late model dual reservoir , forgot how much it moved it over , still had to mill the back lower fin down to get the valve cover off my wedge raised port heads . Have always wondered if it would come off if it were a hemi--------I did use flex brake lines to hook up to it , in case I had to loosen it and **** it side ways , but dont .

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Thanks Bob.
Someone did share who sells the aluminum block but I forgot who. Perhaps it’s on a thread, way back. I’ll check.
I do have it offset already but it’s likely not enough. I like the idea of flexible lines. Thanks.

 

[ns1rm21]

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Thanks Bob.
Someone did share who sells the aluminum block but I forgot who. Perhaps it’s on a thread, way back. I’ll check.
I do have it offset already but it’s likely not enough. I like the idea of flexible lines. Thanks.

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Thanks Bob.
Someone did share who sells the aluminum block but I forgot who. Perhaps it’s on a thread, way back. I’ll check.
I do have it offset already but it’s likely not enough. I like the idea of flexible lines. Thanks.

The aluminum block is sold by Mancini Racing. It moves the master over a 1” +/-. As for the pushrod I made my own. A female hyme joint and a long grade 8 bolt that I cut the head off. Worked perfectly.

 

[ns1rm21]

Another thing that many people don’t know about is the steering column needs a little modification. In stock form the column will hit the head. Hurst shorten up the housing. Little bit of a pain to do but not that bad. Take the lower bushing out of the column, cut it down (sorry but I don’t remember how much... 1 1/8”?) drill new holes for the bushings and reassemble. . I have pictures somewhere but I can not find them.

 

[ns1rm21]

Here is a picture of what I start off with for a brake push rod.

 

[ns1rm21]

Ok here is a picture of the stock column passing by the head. See how it makes contact.... you just cut the tube down and move the yellow bushing back into the column. This is what Hurst did.

 

[DART505]

My motor sits lower. I left 1" or so from outer tubing sticking out. My small shaft was rubbing on valve cover lightly. When I did my rack steering I slotted inner plate lower and left holes to move the colum over some more. I have room now. Still have to take master cylinder resoir off to remove rear spark plug.

 

[ns1rm21]

My motor sits lower. I left 1" or so from outer tubing sticking out. My small shaft was rubbing on valve cover lightly. When I did my rack steering I slotted inner plate lower and left holes to move the colum over some more. I have room now. Still have to take master cylinder resoir off to remove rear spark plug.

You might have torsion bar clearance problems.. Have you mocked in your engine with the headers by any chance??

 

[DART505]

It had Hookers before,now coil overs and rack & pinion steering.

 

[SSing]

It had Hookers before,now coil overs and rack & pinion steering.

Is transmission istaled in original mount and trans member?

 

[DART505]

Yes and motor plate. Been like that 50 years.

 

[SSing]

Yes and motor plate. Been like that 50 years.

So if you look at post #7, how much lower is crankshaft centerlin in your engine?

 

[Malex]

Another thing that many people don’t know about is the steering column needs a little modification. In stock form the column will hit the head. Hurst shorten up the housing. Little bit of a pain to do but not that bad. Take the lower bushing out of the column, cut it down (sorry but I don’t remember how much... 1 1/8”?) drill new holes for the bushings and reassemble. . I have pictures somewhere but I can not find them.

The aluminum block is sold by Mancini Racing. It moves the master over a 1” +/-. As for the pushrod I made my own. A female hyme joint and a long grade 8 bolt that I cut the head off. Worked perfectly.

View attachment 1715561831

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Well it looks like the aluminum block does move the master cylinder over about 1/4" more.

It's close enough that a guy best wait to see if / how it fits with the KB in place.

 

[ns1rm21]

This one moves it over 1”

 

[Malex]

This one moves it over 1”View attachment 1715562191

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Excellent, thanks!
This block looks to be very close to that. The push rod needs to be moved to the opposite side of the brake pedal.