SuperStock spring tips.

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AdamR

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These are Moparts member 572's tips for SuperStock Springs. Pretty helpfull.

FRONT SHOCKS
I have used adjustable shocks, but the stock ones seem to work the best.
TORSION BARS
I have used different sizes. Have used MP Drag bars an even tried turning a set down on the lathe. Stock slant 6, stock 318 bars. The Drag bars worked ok, but they did not seem to last very long. Were always cranking them back up because they would lose there strength. The stock 318 bars have seemed to work the best.
Torsion bars have a front an back an left an right. Need to make sure they are installed correctly. (Popular Hot Rodding March 2002 pgs 66-70) all about T-bars.
SUPER STOCK SPRINGS
You have to have the correct weighted rated spring, for the weight of your car. My car weighs 3700 lbs. I use 3800lb rated springs. MP #312-P3690454 R #312-P3690455 L
Don’t take out or ad leafs to the springs!
SPRING CLAMPS
Do not take off the factory clamps. I have added clamps to the first segment of leafs in front of the axel on BOTH sides. I Also have added clamps on the first segment of leafs after the axel on BOTH sides. An have added one clamp on the drivers side, in front of the factory clamp towards the rear of the spring. You will have to make sure that these will not get in the way with your tires. I have had to grind on the springs to get clearance. They will need to be checked often because they will move around.
REAR SHACKEL
Do not change the location hole of the shackle. I use the factory shackles.
PINION ANGLE
I have used the shims that are installed between the axel an springs they worked fine. I have now welded my rear end to 7*.
REAR SHOCKS
You have got to have a rear shock that extends further than the body travels! If you have a shock that is to short the car will unload the tires, leaf springs will open to quick an it will spin. I have used many different shocks. 2 sets of adjustable Comps., adjustable Ranchos, original factory shocks, an many truck shocks. I have even tested shocks on a shock dyno. I see no gains with any of the adjustable shocks NONE. The best shock that worked for me was ones made for heavy trucks. Before installing shocks compress both at the same time, a release them at the same time. The one that comes up the slowest is now the RIGHT rear shock.
RAKE
You need to have some rake in the car. I have around 2”. I measure this on the frame directly behind the front wheel, an on the frame directly in the front of the rear tire.
TIRE PRESSURE
I have to stagger tire pressure. I stagger mine with a 1/2lb more in the right
rear. Some cars we have worked on require more than a 1/2lb of stagger. I have found that if the tire pressure is the same in both tires it will drive to the right every time.

These tips may not work for you. This is what I have done to mine, an I can 60’ low
1.40s on the back tires off an idle.

--------------------
Shawn Jennings
9.25 @146 SS Springs

www.carpetperfect.com
 
No pinion snubber.

I dont use a 2001 Dodge 3/4 shocks. They work good on a Dart. Mine are gas shocks.

13.5" Phoenix with tubes.

I do my own front end alignment.

I use aluminum front eye bushings.
 
Here's something else to keep in mind. If you use the extra-long shocks (like the Mopar drag shocks), and you attach them to the top but not the bottom, the shock will extend itself and wedge itself on the ground. Then you'll have to jack the car up a little bit to free the shocks.

Go ahead, ask me how I know. ;-)
 
LOL, another good tip. If you hook you line lock up to the rear brakes It wont work. Ask me how I know.
 
AdamR said:
LOL, another good tip. If you hook you line lock up to the rear brakes It wont work. Ask me how I know.

Well, it'll work, it just won't do you much good. :grin:
 
adjustable pinion snubber

KYB Gas shox with 1250 pound Coil over springs

Copies of the 3200 pound Super Stock springs w/ Urethane bushings in stock location

26 x 12.50 -15 M/T @ 10psi

2.5 Inches of Rake

I do my own alignment too!

Neck brace ...cuz it leaves hard
 
adjustable pinion snubber

KYB Gas shox with 1250 pound Coil over springs

Copies of the 3200 pound Super Stock springs w/ Urethane bushings in stock location

26 x 12.50 -15 M/T @ 10psi

2.5 Inches of Rake

I do my own alignment too!

Neck brace ...cuz it leaves hard


Is the rake forward or backwards? Ie nose up or down?
 
years ago i had one of chryslers race books. the big thick white ones. i think it said that the rear spring shackles should be slanted to the rear. so that on launch the springs can push down. i think.
 
It's actually the opposite. The rear shackles should be slanted slightly toward the front from the bottom attachment point.
 
I thought MP torsion bars were not clocked so don't have a front or back???
 
Trbodart aka Chris has de arched his ss springs and gone 1.4 also. So..... There's always that haha
 
Rear Shocks

* 1968 Chrysler 'Imperial' shocks {p/n #3400620}

Benefits
* Travel {extended}
* Jounce {upward compression}
* Rebound {downward travel}

Old School

 
years ago i had one of chryslers race books. the big thick white ones. i think it said that the rear spring shackles should be slanted to the rear. so that on launch the springs can push down. i think.

It's actually the opposite. The rear shackles should be slanted slightly toward the front from the bottom attachment point.

Sooo, which is it? How about a detailed pic of what it should be.

I thought that the shackles should be slanted towards the rear also. If they are slanted towards the front, wouldn't the springs not react properly?
 
It's in the Mopar Chassis manual just like I described it. Get the Chassis manual. Mancini has them cheap.
 
Perhaps this will provide a better perspective:

* The bottom of the shackle (that is attached to the rear of the leaf spring eye) should be angled down, behind the vehicle. Basically, behind the upper eye mount.

...and a pic is worth a thousand words:
 

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i think i was not very clear. what i was trying to say is what the pic that locomotion posted #15. that way it lets the axle push down. it would be fun to know how much time chrysler spent on the spring knowledge. it is way more advanced than ANY other mfg. .
 
it would be fun to know how much time chrysler spent on the spring knowledge. it is way more advanced than ANY other mfg. .
Bob "Turk " Tarozzi developed them for the Hemi Cuda/Dart race car programs. Mopar Action,had sone really good articles on his work. Smart builder and engineer.
 
Early Days

We would install 5/8" thick 'hardened' washers as shims, between the front hanger
and frame hanger-mount.

Created a 'slight' pre-load in the Leaf Spring.

 
Early Days

We would install 5/8" thick 'hardened' washers as shims, between the front hanger
and frame hanger-mount.

Created a 'slight' pre-load in the Leaf Spring.


It works....Used the same idea. Coming from a 45 year experienced Mopar guy.(not me,a buddy.....)
 
A-Body-Bomber,

Tech Tips as early as December 1964 {Super Stock & Drag Illustrated}

Lift or Squat for Mopar Leaf Springs in Super/Stock and A/FX

 
A-Body-Bomber,

Tech Tips as early as December 1964 {Super Stock & Drag Illustrated}

Lift or Squat for Mopar Leaf Springs in Super/Stock and A/FX


That's a great question.... How do you tune leaf springs with modified wheelbases ?.... The percentage, change the game. It should change the I.C ,with the mod. wheelbase. It should bite slower,needs a less of a shock on those small tires. You tell me....
 
Remember,

Only 7" Slicks back then, and the compound material of the slick was far from soft.




The picture you posted,was an altered wheelbase car,are we talking stock wheel base early B body,first off? Gotta know,my man.( and interested in learning ,Physics don't change ,reinvented old technology is a pain in the *** ....
 
A-Body-Bomber,

A better example.

Jack Werst's 1965 Plymouth Super/Stock

Back-in-the-Day,

I had a chance to 'peak' under the car, and see the 'shim-plates'.

Jack Werst, said 'Pre-Load' makes the car launch forward quicker.

Instead of 'lifting' all the way up first, and then launching.


 
A-Body-Bomber,

A better example.

Jack Werst's 1965 Plymouth Super/Stock

Back-in-the-Day,

I had a chance to 'peak' under the car, and see the 'shim-plates'.

Jack Werst, said 'Pre-Load' makes the car launch forward better instead of 'lifting'
all the way up.



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Good information,69 440 'Cuda,Thank You...
 
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