Sure grip question

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BTW you do NOT have to remove the center thrust pin to run green bearings but you DO have to have them to run stock bearings. If they are in, leave them be. (Before the trolls start, This has been verified by Dr Diff)
So how come when I tried to reassemble the axles with Green bearings the 2nd axle would not go in all the way? Once the buttons were removed, the axles went in all the way. These were stock axles with a Dr. Diff center section. And no, I am not a troll.
 
Was it purely coincidental that there's a Victoria's Secret ad down at the bottom of a rear end thread?? Asking for a friend.
 
All right I'm ready to rebuild anyone wanna help ? Can't find any usable info on web just two you tube videos ones very old like the ones I watched in auto class in high school seems good though any more insight would be very appreciated
 
So how come when I tried to reassemble the axles with Green bearings the 2nd axle would not go in all the way? Once the buttons were removed, the axles went in all the way. These were stock axles with a Dr. Diff center section. And no, I am not a troll.

I've never been able to get the thrust pin in with green bearings either. I've done more than a few.
 
So how come when I tried to reassemble the axles with Green bearings the 2nd axle would not go in all the way? Once the buttons were removed, the axles went in all the way. These were stock axles with a Dr. Diff center section. And no, I am not a troll.
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With stock bearings and the stock retainer on the right side you have the ability to set the end play on the axles which basically is measured in thousands of an inch.
When you put the green bearings on they are fixed and they allow the axle to go in a little deeper. Therefore they're hitting the block inside the differential. You can adjust this by grinding a little bit off the end of the axle. Or you can simply remove the Block in the center.
 
I need help with rebuilding the sure grip any pointers, torque specs and than I can leave out the pins for the green bearings
 
You need a pair of axles or the spline ends of them for lining up the clutches.
This is for when you put it back together.

You need to soak the new plates or disk in the suregrip additive for a while.

I'm not sure but aren't the bolts left hand thread? Don't snap them off whichever thread they are.

Mark the case for alignment, with a center punch. So it goes back together the way it came apart.

Look at post 18 for the way it goes back together.

Unbolt it. Stagger the loosing of the bolts.
It should push itself apart.
Remove the guts. Take pictures with your phone as your doing this for later referance if needed.
Inspect everything.
Would not hurt to have a quart of lsd fluid to use when you reassemble.
 
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You need a pair of axles or the spline ends of them for lining up the clutches.
This is for when you put it back together.

You need to soak the new plates or disk in the suregrip additive for a while.

I'm not sure but aren't the bolts left hand thread? Don't snap them off whichever thread they are.

Mark the case for alignment, with a center punch. So it goes back together the way it came apart.

Look at post 18 for the way it goes back together.

Unbolt it. Stagger the loosing of the bolts.
It should push itself apart.
Remove the guts. Take pictures with your phone as your doing this for later referance if needed.
Inspect everything.
Would not hurt to have a quart of lsd fluid to use when you reassemble.
Ok dr diff sent this modifier and when u say lsd do u mean synthetic diff lube?and I found 40 ft lbs for torque specs is that in a circular torque or crossover and I'm also gonna run green bearings so remove the buttons?
1546487663496355491342215541651.jpg
 
Lsd=limited slip differential

You soak the new clutches in a little pan of the modiflier.
I would leave the button in untill it is back together for ease of assemble.
Loosen and later tighten the bolts in a staggered patteren.
When you reassemble the unit do not tighten everything down all at once break it down to 20 foot pounds and then 40 lb or whatever your spec is.
 
I thought he said this was the cone type. Most say they are NOT rebuildable, but you can grind off the end of the cone so it doesn't bottom out.
 
I thought he said this was the cone type. Most say they are NOT rebuildable, but you can grind off the end of the cone so it doesn't bottom out.
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The picture in post number one is not a cone type.
It is the clutch type or power track or whatever they called it. It is the good rebuildable one. You do not have to grind anything off.

The most important thing of this whole rebuild is that you soak those clutch disc in that modifier. Not in the fluid for sure grips or limited slip differentials. But soak it in the modifier. And I don't mean for 5 minutes I mean for an hour or so or more. I used to soak mine overnight.

You ask why why do you soak them?

Because if you don't soak them the first time you turn a corner with dry clutches you'll tear the Linings up.
Which leads to the next point once you have this all together and in your car and you're out on the street you go around corners left and right. This will work the fluid into the Sure Grip unit.
If you hear a popping noise or the inside tire is hopping you need to add another bottle of the friction modifier. This is after you have driven it around a few Corners and the rear end fluid has gotten hot. You are breaking in this carrier.

When you have driven it around a little bit and gotten it hot you need to stop shut the car off go back to the rear axle and see if you hear a sizzling noise. If you do you need to add more friction modifier because your clutches have gotten hot and they are cooking the oil off of them.
 
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Btw there is a thread in the how to section on how to refresh a cone type. But you don't have to worry about that.
 
While you have it apart also have a good look at the spider gears and cross pins. The gears can fracture teeth when abused, and the cross pins can wear where the gears ride on them.

Take your time, it is fairly straightforward to rebuild.
 
Ok got it apart ready for reassemble should I take out the thrust pin clutches are gouged pretty bad I know I was told I could take it out later but now seems easier
15465626044868726168263705985148.jpg
 
Ok got it apart ready for reassemble should I take out the thrust pin clutches are gouged pretty bad I know I was told I could take it out later but now seems easierView attachment 1715270547
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Those clutch disc are what you are replacing.
The pin that has been referred to is the pin that holds the cross shafts together.
 
Lsd=limited slip differential

You soak the new clutches in a little pan of the modiflier.
I would leave the button in untill it is back together for ease of assemble.
Loosen and later tighten the bolts in a staggered patteren.
When you reassemble the unit do not tighten everything down all at once break it down to 20 foot pounds and then 40 lb or whatever your spec is.
Just re read your post I get now about the button thanks
 
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