Sway bar rubber bushing replacement
- Thread starter CudaCraig
- Start date
-
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
2 ways to handle that.
Cut the weld, replace the bushing, reweld.
Replace the entire mount and bushing.
I haven't done one yet but my gut says slide it off the end of the sway bar, pull the rubber bushing out put new bushing in and slide it back onto the sway bar.
BUT...
IIRC the end of the sway bar is flattened so it will probably be too wide to slip on or off so you might have to put the bushing on the bar, then the metal part and mate the two together on the bar.
Hope someone has done this as I will be needing to do it too in the near future.
BUT...
IIRC the end of the sway bar is flattened so it will probably be too wide to slip on or off so you might have to put the bushing on the bar, then the metal part and mate the two together on the bar.
Hope someone has done this as I will be needing to do it too in the near future.
How do you get it over the end of the sway bar?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Put it on the bar and then weld it back.
Actually I think someone messed with it before, because it's kinda hard to imagine a factory bar mount that the bushing isn't replaceable without the cutting and welding.
Looking back at the pics again those look home made.
Maybe check around for different mounts?
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Nah, that's factory, 72 and earlier. B body is similar.
I cut vertically, with an .045" wafer wheel, straight down through the weld like in the last photo. I cut a pair of opposed slots in a 2.5 lb plastic Folgers can for the sway bar. Filled it w water after setting the bar, new bushing and vise-grip clamped where I cut the original weld. The clamping was the hardest part. Then I welded the new one in with it half under water.
My new ones are Energy Suspension, poly. Their instructions say - 1. Clean the bar so the new one can slide. This is important. Right before the ends, the diameter is slightly smaller. Apply the supplied lube and squeeze with Channel Locks with the bracket close to the end, then slide to the correct position. Don't get the brackets backwards, there's a L and R.
I cut vertically, with an .045" wafer wheel, straight down through the weld like in the last photo. I cut a pair of opposed slots in a 2.5 lb plastic Folgers can for the sway bar. Filled it w water after setting the bar, new bushing and vise-grip clamped where I cut the original weld. The clamping was the hardest part. Then I welded the new one in with it half under water.
My new ones are Energy Suspension, poly. Their instructions say - 1. Clean the bar so the new one can slide. This is important. Right before the ends, the diameter is slightly smaller. Apply the supplied lube and squeeze with Channel Locks with the bracket close to the end, then slide to the correct position. Don't get the brackets backwards, there's a L and R.
-
