daddio4048
Daddios72
How bad is it to switch a manual duster to a automatic. I already have a manual car & would like to go the automatic route on this build. Any insight would be appreciated.
Switching from manual to auto.
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74SwingerSpe
Well-Known Member
Hi daddio4048,
I'm in the middle of doing the same thing on our 73 duster (father/son project). I was unable to find an automatic brake pedal assembly being reproduced or used on the internet. I ended up finding one in a 73-76 dart in a junk yard. I had to pull the steering column to get the brake assembly out of the donor car. My steering column is already out of the duster, so putting it in should be more straight forward. The brake assembly I got has some surface rust I'll need to clean up and then repaint before installing.
I haven't decided whether I'm going to leave the manual hump on the trans tunnel or not. If you decide not to leave it, getting it off with a grinder shouldn't be too bad, but then the now missing section of the tunnel will need to be fabricated and welded in. I'm leaning toward removing the manual hump on our project, but the tunnel fabrication is what is holding up my decision. I'll looking on this forum for examples of others doing this.
Since the automatic (727, 904) and manual trans all have different lengths, the existing drive line will need to be modified to the correct length. I've read that this is not too bad money wise and you likely have a local drive line shop that could do it for you.
Travis
I'm in the middle of doing the same thing on our 73 duster (father/son project). I was unable to find an automatic brake pedal assembly being reproduced or used on the internet. I ended up finding one in a 73-76 dart in a junk yard. I had to pull the steering column to get the brake assembly out of the donor car. My steering column is already out of the duster, so putting it in should be more straight forward. The brake assembly I got has some surface rust I'll need to clean up and then repaint before installing.
I haven't decided whether I'm going to leave the manual hump on the trans tunnel or not. If you decide not to leave it, getting it off with a grinder shouldn't be too bad, but then the now missing section of the tunnel will need to be fabricated and welded in. I'm leaning toward removing the manual hump on our project, but the tunnel fabrication is what is holding up my decision. I'll looking on this forum for examples of others doing this.
Since the automatic (727, 904) and manual trans all have different lengths, the existing drive line will need to be modified to the correct length. I've read that this is not too bad money wise and you likely have a local drive line shop that could do it for you.
Travis
daddio4048
Daddios72
I think I will leave the tunnel alone so I can install something like a B&M shifter to sit where the 4-speed shifter was. Mt biggest concern is transmission mounting & which transmission would work best. I know there is someone on this site that knows what works best.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Almost a bolt-in.
If you have a 904,The yoke on the driveshaft will need to be downsized. If you have a 727, the D/S will need to be shortened. The x-member IIRC is the same.You will need the KD mechanism from a similar year (67 to 72), similar engine(SBM?), A-body.You will need the NSS harness adapter for reverse lights and neutral start sw.
I used to DD my 68 Barracuda 4 seasons. Stick in summer, 904 in winter. I used the same pedal assembly, just dropped the clutch pedal to the floor.
You will need a flex-plate or TC balanced for your engine.S'abowdit.
As far as swaps go, this one is about as easy as it gets.Except for one thing, the trans cooler. Most original stick-car rads did not have the integral trans-oil cooler. So if yours DOES, you are golden. Otherwise you will need to do something about that. The usual plan is a deep pan and a, thermo-statically bypassed when cold, auxilliary cooler.
If you have a 904,The yoke on the driveshaft will need to be downsized. If you have a 727, the D/S will need to be shortened. The x-member IIRC is the same.You will need the KD mechanism from a similar year (67 to 72), similar engine(SBM?), A-body.You will need the NSS harness adapter for reverse lights and neutral start sw.
I used to DD my 68 Barracuda 4 seasons. Stick in summer, 904 in winter. I used the same pedal assembly, just dropped the clutch pedal to the floor.
You will need a flex-plate or TC balanced for your engine.S'abowdit.
As far as swaps go, this one is about as easy as it gets.Except for one thing, the trans cooler. Most original stick-car rads did not have the integral trans-oil cooler. So if yours DOES, you are golden. Otherwise you will need to do something about that. The usual plan is a deep pan and a, thermo-statically bypassed when cold, auxilliary cooler.
daddio4048
Daddios72
Are all the small block 727 transmissions the same on size ?
Yes, if from a car. Some truck 727s, 4 wheel drive, are short but very noticeable.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Or a 2wheel drive light duty pick-up truck.Like the old D100 series.
Yes.
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