Taming the shift on my trans

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Ok. I bought a core transmission for a good price. I'm thinking of rebuilding it myself. Keeping the throttle pressure. Maybe a shift kit. Any recommendations for a rebuild kit with all the parts included (not shift kit parts). Also, should I use a bolt in sprag? Who makes a good one? What about pressing the bushings in properly?
Car has a 440+.030, .515 Hughes cam. 750 race Demon, RPM intake, 3600 pound car, with 3.91 locker. Ran a best of 12.12@110.
I want to keep the performance, and to be able to manual shift when I want, but automatic when cruising.
The kits probably come from two or three major manufacturers and then the rest or just repackaged for resale. I recommend getting it from a local distributor where you can go back if one of the underpaid factory workers didn't put the proper seal in. Instead of having to mail and call back and forth. It sounds like you want a transgo stage 2 shift kit.
 
And buy the book.

You definitely need the book.
 
I’d call A&A and get everything you need. Frictions, bands, and steels, also rebuild the servos and like said - get a governor kit. I hauled the case to a trans shop and had them push bushings. You must almost always have to change the bushings up front.

Since you hit the track, a bolt in sprag is necessary.

Tear it down on the bench, lay it all out and then call when you know exactly what you have. Inspect the case for cracks and all “hard” parts for damage.
 
Very few kits come with everything you need. You should first tear it apart and assess what it needs so you don't waste money ordering stuff you don't need. And X2 on buying the book(s).
 
Very few kits come with everything you need. You should first tear it apart and assess what it needs so you don't waste money ordering stuff you don't need. And X2 on buying the book(s).
Yes, but which books?
 
That is a race valve body. It is doing what it's supposed to do. Just get a VB out of another trans, shift kit it, and trade it out.
It's hitting hard cause you have a stock torque converter in it. The TA MRVB is intended for strip use.
If you take the advise given on changing settings or drillings in the valve body, you will ruin the value of that VB and it will be useless to someone who wants one.
I have one in my Dart, but I also have a 4500 converter, no problems here... and I don't spill my coffee either.
 
If I may add that if u have a rmvb u cannot change it to anything else as they have a totally different separator plate in them and a lot of the valves and springs are missing as they are not needed. Kim
 
Ok. First, thank you Fishy 68. I have the second book. I'm going to order the first one by Tom Hand. Seems a lot of people reccomend it.
 
That is a race valve body. It is doing what it's supposed to do. Just get a VB out of another trans, shift kit it, and trade it out.
It's hitting hard cause you have a stock torque converter in it. The TA MRVB is intended for strip use.
If you take the advise given on changing settings or drillings in the valve body, you will ruin the value of that VB and it will be useless to someone who wants one.
I have one in my Dart, but I also have a 4500 converter, no problems here... and I don't spill my coffee either.
The funny thing is, I got this trans done at ATI. I asked them why it hit so hard, and they said that's what it's supposed to do. But I had a trans done by them before, and it would shift very softly, but very quick. I asked them why, and they said, that's what it's supposed to do. So, which is it? Also, I got the converter from them at the same time. It was supposed to be a 3k converter. When I foot braked it, it wouldn't go past 1200 rpm without pushing the car. I know it won't footbrake to 3k, but 1200 is too low. Plus I think it's a bad converter. Car has a vibration at about 5k and up. Also that is a TA valve body. I put that one in there, cause the ATI vb was worse.
 
If I may add that if u have a rmvb u cannot change it to anything else as they have a totally different separator plate in them and a lot of the valves and springs are missing as they are not needed. Kim
My plan is to build a completely new trans, and get a new converter from a reputable builder. I want to go back to a kickdown style setup, with a shift kit. I've done the mods for a shift kit in the past, it's all the other stuff I'm scared of. But I want to try.
 
Furyus2,
This is part of the learning curve.. I had to do it too. Even though I got my start decades ago, it never ends. I don't intend to be glib, but the answers you're looking for, will take huge paragraphs to answer, and you can only absorb it relative to your knowledge base.
That's why ATI gave you short answers. Especially if you spoke to Charlie (ATI), he has no patience.. If I were a bettin man, I would say you were sold two different products by ATI, cause they perceived two different requirements.
I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. it happens, now and then.
My first trans build was back in '84, it was an education. I have done SEVERAL since, and even worked as a 'builder' at my local trans shop. But, even in the 'trans builder' community, it was common to encounter LOTS of other builders (not all) who simply had NO CONCEPT of REAL performance applications. Case and point: in the NHRA Stock/Super Stock ranks, 727's were fitted with 904 internals to minimize drivetrain losses. These trans have been retrofitted/modified for more than 25 yrs. and cost in excess of $5000 today. They WORK, and hold up to 950+hp Hemi's on a regular basis. From time to time, while attending ATRA training conventions, I would talk about these transmission 'animals' with other 'builders', and I would frequently get the BS stare, to some sort of butt-hurt response from them because it didn't fit their narrative.
An integral part of being a good builder of anything, is to gain a thorough understanding of needs of the customer. Only then, can you provide a good service. Unfortunately, you have fallen through the cracks...
I commend you, for wanting to DIY. Be patient, study, and never give up.
 
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