Temp Gauge Working Intermittently - Suggestions?

Electrical and Ignition

  1. 69cudaownr

    69cudaownr FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    198
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    Location:
    Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
    Local Time:
    1:16 PM
    Hi Guys,
    My temp gauge does not always work. Sometimes it will stop working while driving and then start working again. The other gauges in the cluster are working fine. What should I be considering first; the gauge itself that's the problem, a ground wire or the circuit board? Is there a way to test what the cause may be?
    Thanks
     
  2. Early a body

    Early a body Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    197
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2018
    Location:
    Nevada
    Local Time:
    10:16 AM

    it could be the voltage regulator on the back of the gauge, if your year had one, it could be a bad sending unit. on the block.

    But you could also bypass the unit and buy a a/m temp gauge .
     
  3. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

    Messages:
    51,544
    Likes Received:
    20543
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2010
    Location:
    Idaho
    Local Time:
    10:16 AM
    Think in terms of the "end to end" functional circuit path

    Sender........can be bad, any of them can, right out of the box
    Sender wire connector........can be broken inside the molded wire junction
    In through the bulkhead connector-----that terminal can be corroded/ dirty/ loose
    To the PC board connector. The connector itself, or the board pins CAN BE LOOSE where they are riveted to the board. Clean them up and solder them.

    The gauge nuts are "fake" sheet metal deals, replace with real nuts. The PC board can be corroded where the studs/ nuts make contact. Loosen / tightn the nut a few times to "scrub" it clean

    The gauge itself can be bad.
     
  4. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

    Messages:
    51,544
    Likes Received:
    20543
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2010
    Location:
    Idaho
    Local Time:
    10:16 AM
    No, the IVR regulates both temp and fuel on a standard cluster, and also the oil pressure on a Ralleye cluster
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      51,544
      Likes Received:
      20543
      Joined:
      Oct 14, 2010
      Location:
      Idaho
      Local Time:
      10:16 AM
      If you pull the cluster you should go "clear through" it, generally

      PC connector pins can be loose, and can be fixed by soldering

      IVR connctor is spring loaded contacts pressed into the board. Solder bridges across them to the PC board traces

      Already mentioned the gauge nuts

      Replace IVR with a solid state one like RTE

      Use eraser, etc, to clean up the traces where the lamp sockets fit, and bend the socket tabs for better contact
       
    • MOPAROFFICIAL

      MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      9,462
      Likes Received:
      8806
      Joined:
      Jun 1, 2016
      Location:
      Oceanside ca.
      Local Time:
      10:16 AM
      Bad connection, faulty sender, air pocket.
      If the fuel gauge works fine that would rule out the volt limiter.. though you try jiggling wires after warming it up. Shut off with key on/acc.

      Also with the key on try grounding the sending wire off of the sender and see if the gauge pegs
       
    • 69cudaownr

      69cudaownr FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      287
      Likes Received:
      198
      Joined:
      Aug 21, 2008
      Location:
      Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
      Local Time:
      1:16 PM
      Thanks for the feedback. I’ll do some checking and testing.
       
    • oldkimmer

      oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      20,513
      Likes Received:
      7429
      Joined:
      Nov 11, 2006
      Location:
      Kindersley, Saskatchewan,
      Local Time:
      12:16 PM
      Try removing and installing the wire end on the sending unit a few times. Kim
       
    • RedFish

      RedFish Well-Known Member

      Messages:
      25,023
      Likes Received:
      3719
      Joined:
      Sep 5, 2007
      Local Time:
      1:16 PM
      If the gauge works fine until the water gets hot I would suspect temperature related. Since the sender is the hottest piece of the circuit, a new sender could be my first move. I dont always start by throwing parts at a problem but... a small part that doesn't cost a lot and is easy enough to replace just might save me a whole lot of trouble. Some instrument panels are more difficult to R&R than others.
      If you do end up pulling the panel and find a loose nut behind the gauge, same 10-32 hex nuts and internal toothed washers as found on the AMP gauge will work on all of them. Just dont over tighten. If the stud should turn it will break the fiber board it is sweged into.
       
    • 69cudaownr

      69cudaownr FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      287
      Likes Received:
      198
      Joined:
      Aug 21, 2008
      Location:
      Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
      Local Time:
      1:16 PM
      Update; The plug end at the sensor was a little loose. However, I decided to change the sensor based on "Redfish" response being the problem was heat sensitive. Plus, all other dash gauges are working well leaving me to believe I have good connections in the dash.
      Problem fixed; The plug end fit more snug on the new sensor and my operating temperature is now sitting nicely between the "low" temp line and the "hot" temp line. My temp gauge was always on the low side with the old sensor. Thanks for your help guys.
       
      • Like Like x 2
      1. This site uses cookies to help personalize content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
        By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.