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Man, from all the suggestions and apparent available equipment around maybe y’all could hook er up.
LMAO! Sorry, I’m greedy..... and down a few amps for the next set up....
Does anyone’s go to 11?
I have an old 400W Profile amp that I repaired a channel on years ago. I powered it up last week and it still works! Ill have to press it into service when the 'ol Barracuda is on the road again. (Ebay pic). I had an old shaft JVC cassette head, a 100W amp and some matching JVC 4" 2 way 50W door speaker in my first beater Mazda pickup. It was professionally installed by Circuit City and they put baffles behind the door speakers. That system sounded so clean and it was loud enough for me, had surprising bass out of those speakers....
a couple suggestions: I put new kickpanels made for speakers in my Dart - now the vent doors only open half way. Latest project will have the twin speakers in the original location in the dash. I've checked out others who did this and the sound coming up and projected out by the curve of the windshield is better IMHO. Check out Retro Radio Restorations - Mom and Pop business (literally) in Pennsylvania (always at Carlisle). They take an original radio and change the internals. As long as the mechanical stuff works (push buttons, dial tuner...) the donor doesn't even have to work. You get AM/FM stereo, input for MP3, portable disc player, bluetooth connection, etc and it looks like original (after all the radio box is) so not cuttin' nothin'. If you can find a factory AM/FM radio then they use the factory AM/FM switch, otherwise they us a funky quick on and off of the knob to switch - sometimes switches itself if the radio is on and you start the car.
@Princess Valiant you would probably like the simplicity of the system I have in Gladys. I have two 6.5" Kenwood coax speakers in the doors and this sub behind the seat. Blaupunkt THb 210A Compact powered subwoofer 120-watt amp with an 8" sub at Crutchfield The sub does overpower the door speakers, but I have a Kicker amp I am going to put on the front speakers. It sounds really good for what it is now though.
As for power, if it is not "clean" what is the point. Don't go by "peak power" but look for the RMS power or check power at at less than 1%THD. Some receivers can be rated at the same peak power but be vastly different when it comes to RMS power. Also the music decoding is different for different brands, so it is best to listen to different brands to see what you like best. Now if you cheap out on speakers, all this will be for naught. Speakers should match in power, watts RMS, and resistance, ohms.
Heck, I had to have more power. Everything I own is supped up in some way or another, and I really enjoy my classic rock. I've got 400 watts going to each of my tweeters, 500 watts going to each of my 4 mid-basses and 1000 watts going to a pair of 12 inch subs, all actively crossed over and digitally processed through a state of the art digital sound processor with time delay. It sounds like there is a drummer in my dash with a real drum set. No booming bass that shakes the neighbors house and rattles my license plate, but powerful realistic sound that is extremely clear, has full dynamic range and has zero background noise even at high volume. It's one of the pleasures of working hard and building what I enjoy most.