Thermo quad issue

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dancinwulf

dancinwulf

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Ketchum Idaho
My excellerator pump is working so I know there is fuel to the carb. If I pump it 2 or 3 times my motor will start but won't continue to run. I had the carburetor rebuilt about 18 to 24 months ago but it sat until now. Not sure where to start looking. Had some heart issues so had put the car on hold until now.
 
Sat with gas in it?
If thats the case it will need to be disassembled and cleaned.
Gunk in the bowl plugging idle jets is my guess.

in some rare cases i have blocked of air intake while its running and the high vacuum will clear the blockages.

that or it needs choke to run until it warms up.
 
I'm not super familiar with carbs, but take a look at this link. It's an NOS phenolic spacer. I'm not sure what the part is called, but I think it's a "well" that is "glued" to main part of spacer. There are 2 of them and sometimes the "glue" dries out and they separate. That might be it? You can see them clear as heck in 3rd and 4th pic.

[FOR SALE] - NOS Carter Thermoquad Bowl #0-2330A
 
Many re builders miss the o-rings in the bottom of the black phenolic body. They are black and I always have guys come here with the remainder of the kit. There they are still in the box. Its possible they were forgotten, Many good carb re-builders that never worked on these carbs miss them. You cannot see them you have to know they are there and use a pick and pull them out. Its worth a shot.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Sat with gas in it?
If thats the case it will need to be disassembled and cleaned.
Gunk in the bowl plugging idle jets is my guess.

in some rare cases i have blocked of air intake while its running and the high vacuum will clear the blockages.

that or it needs choke to run until it warms up.
Click to expand...
 
No sat on the shelf not on the motor never had fuel in it after it was rebuilt. But the front choke plate never seems to close no matter what I do so maybe that is it. It just stays open no matter how many times I put it to the floor. So that could be it but not sure how to try and fix that
 
you probably have a link bar that popped out. Make sure you got all these little guys...especially the top link. First pic finger shows choke linkage point that pushes up from the cold divorced choke well in pic 3
0900c1528007fc47.gif
0900c1528007fc4a.gif
how-to-desmog-a-thermoquad
 
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I don't have the wire connected what does it conect to just any hot lead or something specific
 
could run it to alt field connection (dual field that doesn't go to regulator) or any part of that leg, ie ballast resistor feed. Later models used a oil pressure switch to turn on choke only when car was running so you could not cheat and turn on ignition only and start the heating cycle. Now thats only going to assist in pulling the choke OFF, Setting it should be automatic, ie. spring loaded to apply it: pump gas once and the cold spring pressure on the choke linkage will cause the fast idle throttle stop to drop into place (under spring tension) and prop the throttle open a bit, this will also cause the choke to snap shut (as its propped open by the heated choke spring. The heating spring (after you start car) will slowly pull the choke off and every time you tap the gas, the throttle stop will pull out a little until its completely free and the throttle returns to curb idle. Im not sure of the TQ will settle down to curb idle by itself or if it needs a second pump or tap of throttle. The choke pull off opens the closed choke momentarily if you blip the throttle
 
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pishta said:
could run it to alt field connection (dual field that doesn't go to regulator) or any part of that leg, ie ballast resistor feed. Later models used a oil pressure switch to turn on choke only when car was running so you could not cheat and turn on ignition only and start the heating cycle. Now thats only going to assist in pulling the choke OFF, Setting it should be automatic, ie. spring loaded to apply it: pump gas once and the cold spring pressure on the choke linkage will cause the fast idle throttle stop to drop into place (under spring tension) and prop the throttle open a bit, this will also cause the choke to snap shut (as its propped open by the heated choke spring. The heating spring (after you start car) will slowly pull the choke off and every time you tap the gas, the throttle stop will pull out a little until its completely free and the throttle returns to curb idle. Im not sure of the TQ will settle down to curb idle by itself or if it needs a second pump or tap of throttle. The choke pull off opens the closed choke momentarily if you blip the throttle
Click to expand...
 
Stays open no matter what?

How thick of a gasket is under the carb?
If it is the typical 1/16 paper gasket, replace it with the proper OE thicker gasket. I’d guess there about .333 to a 1/4 inch thick. (I forget)
 
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