Thermostat Housing

gtgto

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Well this will be the third time I am trying to fix a coolant leak from the thermostat housing. Since I am going to have it apart I figured I would replace the stat with a 180 degree, same as what I had previously. Got it from Advanced Auto and its in a Car Quest box and says made in Israel......How awesome is that? Anyways hoping the third time is a charm. Just to clarify the correct way to install it's gasket then thermostat then housing? I'm trying the permatex made especially for this application.
 

rva

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Well this will be the third time I am trying to fix a coolant leak from the thermostat housing. Since I am going to have it apart I figured I would replace the stat with a 180 degree, same as what I had previously. Got it from Advanced Auto and its in a Car Quest box and says made in Israel......How awesome is that? Anyways hoping the third time is a charm. Just to clarify the correct way to install it's gasket then thermostat then housing? I'm trying the permatex made especially for this application.
i always take a piece of sticky back sand paper stick it on a flat surface and slide the housing back and forth on sand paper till surface is smooth and flat, if housing is chrome remove it from the surface.
 

roccodart440

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Unsure if you are married to OEM stuff but i'm a huge fan of o-ring housings.
 

Dana67Dart

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Thanks. I'll give it a try.
You won't be disappointed.

Follow the manufactures instructions to the letter. You will need an inch pound torque wrench.

I had leaks at the housing, I bought a oe repo housing and standard gasket, permatex gasket adhesive. Followed all the instructions, allowed it to tack up etc

A couple weeks later leaks.

I bought the real gasket, installed as per their directions, not a drop in 4.5 years.

The manifold surface was 50 year old pock marked and the housing was the same oe repo housing. I lightly sanded and scraped the manifold surface, I cleaned out the bolt holes so there was no junk in them. I used camping stove alcohol to clean everything. I put the thermostat in the housing using the rope trick to hold it in place, added the gasket dry, important - any sealer will cause the gasket to not perform correctly.
Put the housing on and torqued the bolts to the GASKET makers spec ( I think it is 12 inch lbs or the like)

I can tell you 12 inch pounds goes against EVERY fiber of my being, but I followed the directions, the bolts have never backed out, the gasket has not moved, and I run a 16lb cap.

 

jazak5

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Not to change the subject but I have tried them all cork/rubber-metal ect their 727 trans gasket is it !!!!!
 

'68cuda416

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Amazing the issues guys have with the simplest of tasks.....for one I NEVER EVER BUY FROM ANY OF THE CHAIN quote unquote parts stores.......the employees are almost always droolers and the part quality they carry is junk!!! Step up to the plate and buy the best you can find online from a wide array of sources on every aspect of the car and have some good fundamental automotive experience and you will rarely be disappointed.
 

Dana67Dart

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Not to change the subject but I have tried them all cork/rubber-metal ect their 727 trans gasket is it !!!!!
I want to try their valve cover gaskets but I hate the orange glaring out. Maybe if my engine was factory red it would not be so visible.
 

Oldmanmopar

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Installed properly? Turn the thermostat housing upside down . Place the thermostat in the housing recess . Use contact cement and glue the gasket over the thermostat and housing . Let it set up then apply a light coat of gasket sealer to the dry intake.

Not saying you did but many times the thermostat is not in the recess built into the housing correctly. Then they always leak.

The o-ring style are great to use if the intake has a perfect flat surface. Most times on older intakes they do not.
 

Dana67Dart

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Installed properly? Turn the thermostat housing upside down . Place the thermostat in the housing recess . Use contact cement and glue the gasket over the thermostat and housing . Let it set up then apply a light coat of gasket sealer to the dry intake
That is how I have done every thermostat I have ever changed in the past. And they have all leaked after a few years.
 

Oldmanmopar

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That is how I have done every thermostat I have ever changed in the past. And they have all leaked after a few years.
Find an old iron thermostat housing for an iron intake and an aluminum housing for an aluminum intake it and it will work better.
expansion rates differ between the different metals. O ring housing will allow the best seal but the surfaces must be perfect.
 

harrisonm

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Well, @gtgto, I tried several different gaskets, a few thermostat housings, and trying to sand the housing and manifold flat, and still the leak. I finally bought a Billet Specialties billet aluminum housing with an O ring instead of a gasket. It worked great. No leaks for about 7 years now.

www.billetspecialties.com
 

toolmanmike

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Wow, leak after leak tells me the housing isn't flat or the sealing surface on the intake isn't either. You can run the t stat housing over a belt sander to true it up. The intake not so much. That would have to be machined. I 100% agree with @Oldmanmopar. Turn the housing over, put the t stat in the pocket and glue the gasket on the housing. I don't usually use sealer on the gasket to intake surface and don't have a leak issue (as long as the surfaces are flat)
 

harrisonm

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Well, @gtgto, I had the same problem. No matter what I did, it still leaked (Edelbrock Air Gap on a 340). I tried several kinds of gaskets, a few housings, and trying to sand the surfaces flat, but it still leaked. Then I got a billet aluminum housing with an O ring from Billet Specialties. It worked right away and hasn't leaked for 7 years now.
Thermostat Housing - Chrysler Small / Big Block (billetspecialties.com)
Edit. The original post disappeared on my end, so I rewrote it with a more accurate link.
 

gtgto

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Well, @gtgto, I had the same problem. No matter what I did, it still leaked (Edelbrock Air Gap on a 340). I tried several kinds of gaskets, a few housings, and trying to sand the surfaces flat, but it still leaked. Then I got a billet aluminum housing with an O ring from Billet Specialties. It worked right away and hasn't leaked for 7 years now.
Thermostat Housing - Chrysler Small / Big Block (billetspecialties.com)
Edit. The original post disappeared on my end, so I rewrote it with a more accurate link.
I have heard numerous times billet specialties is the way to go. I have already bought the parts for one more try. If it leaks I will make the purchase.
 

gtgto

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Got my car all back together and filled with coolant over the weekend. Haven't started her up yet but so far bone dry on my new cardboard box. Hopefully get it running and moving tomorrow after work weather permitting.
 

gtgto

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Had a few things to take care of yesterday. After I get home today I have to find what’s causing my tire to lose air in my DD and then I will be taking the Duster out for a joy ride. My cardboard still has no evidence of leaking which is great. If things go well I may even head to a cruise I’ve never been to.
 

1971 CY Dodge Dart

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There is one in Berlin which is not really close to me. Its about 45 minutes or so. You familiar with others on Tuesday nights. I'm in the valley area
The one in Berlin I believe is in the Ocean State Job Lot parking lot.
 

gtgto

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The one in Berlin I believe is in the Ocean State Job Lot parking lot.
I didn't go. Fixing my tire took way longer than I expected. I pulled a piece of what looked like a nail out of the tire but it was less than a 1/2 inch. How sad if it was my issue. Pay good money for low profile performance tires and a tiny piece of nail causes a slow leak. I just hope its fixed. I did go for a drive to get some gas and put a few miles on ny Duster and so far still dry as a bone. I have the silicon gasket ready to go if needed.
 
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