62 dodge
Well-Known Member
I have a 185 thermostat in my 62 now. It still over heats. I was told to put a 195 by one person and then another one said to put a 165 in it. I have a champion 3 row and pusher fan on it as well. Any thought to this.
Thermostat question
- Thread starter 62 dodge
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
What do you call overheating because a thermostat temp change isn't going to solve anything for you.
It can get argued for days, but what it comes down to is a lack of sufficient coolant flow or air flow.
Forgoing blown head gaskets and those type causes of course.
It can get argued for days, but what it comes down to is a lack of sufficient coolant flow or air flow.
Forgoing blown head gaskets and those type causes of course.
The thermostat will not change the maximum operating temperature. None. Zero. Zilch. Anyone who says that knows nothing about how the cooling system operates.
As TrailBeast asked, what do you consider over heating?
As TrailBeast asked, what do you consider over heating?
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
220-240
CudaJunction
Well-Known Member
Pusher fan theres your problem.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
WHEN does it over heat? Going down the road? At a stop? When it gets hot, does it ever cool back off?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
It steadily gets hotter and hotter but better on the hiway.
Oh, sorry I thought you were asking me.
brasil
Well-Known Member
better on the highway.... worse in town ?
If so.... the problem is the flow through the radiator...
Waterpump and / or Pulley Ratio...
Greetings Juergen
Btw... what is your timing @ idle ? too low..can cause overheating also
If so.... the problem is the flow through the radiator...
Waterpump and / or Pulley Ratio...
Greetings Juergen
Btw... what is your timing @ idle ? too low..can cause overheating also
I love books they are knowledgeable little creatures, and knowledge is power. I picked up the whole series of Mopar, “Learn to Earn” books when the local liberty decided to close its doors. The books are a little dated but have the basic information on why and how things are the way they are.
Thinking outside of the box, why would a car manufacture make a car that would overheat driving down the road? If this is the case, knowing they would be out of businesses none the less. But they didn't all is well, a factory stock engine and car will indeed last many years and many happy miles, with regular maintenance practices outline in the owners manual usually provided with the auto.
ALMOST, all modification will have direct impact, over stock factory products. To put this in semi math terms. 1 modification = 2 or more modifications as needed for the one. For example for my 70 dart, I decided to go HEI module upgrade, buy the module and HEI mount for the distributor. Had to modify the distributor holes for the mount, modify for the pickup coil. Up grade the coil, wires, opened the plug gaps, modified the ballast resistor with a copper wire soldered in-place of the resistor. And maybe left out a few things...this is the price I willing to pay to remove the point and condenser system.
So getting back to the overheating, and we know the car never left the factory with an overheating problem, (we hope) what is different what modifications over factory stock? Stock we can look at, belt slipping, thermostat, timing, collapsed hoses, plugged radiator, just to name a few. Now for the mods, modification to the engine, high performance engines, (not stock factory high performance) and small block to big block. Any increase in horse power over stock= increase in cooling over stock, you must have a larger surface area over factory stock to cool properly, fact. Using an upgraded aluminum radiator and electric fans may or may not work for your application and it may work just fine for someone else. Traveling down the road you would be surprised how little air passed through the radiator, hence the use of the engine fan blades and the ever forgotten fan shroud. Air does not want to be force into something, air likes vacuum, again the blades and fan shroud create a vacuum. I am a believer of the fan mount to the water pump and shroud, use the horse power you got. I like the idea of using a pusher fan in town driving, manual off and on switch just to “help” along. Is there such a test where you can just fill the radiator you have with water and measure it, then do the same with a stock one for the year of engine you have? Well I hope I helped, maybe some good reading.....
Thinking outside of the box, why would a car manufacture make a car that would overheat driving down the road? If this is the case, knowing they would be out of businesses none the less. But they didn't all is well, a factory stock engine and car will indeed last many years and many happy miles, with regular maintenance practices outline in the owners manual usually provided with the auto.
ALMOST, all modification will have direct impact, over stock factory products. To put this in semi math terms. 1 modification = 2 or more modifications as needed for the one. For example for my 70 dart, I decided to go HEI module upgrade, buy the module and HEI mount for the distributor. Had to modify the distributor holes for the mount, modify for the pickup coil. Up grade the coil, wires, opened the plug gaps, modified the ballast resistor with a copper wire soldered in-place of the resistor. And maybe left out a few things...this is the price I willing to pay to remove the point and condenser system.
So getting back to the overheating, and we know the car never left the factory with an overheating problem, (we hope) what is different what modifications over factory stock? Stock we can look at, belt slipping, thermostat, timing, collapsed hoses, plugged radiator, just to name a few. Now for the mods, modification to the engine, high performance engines, (not stock factory high performance) and small block to big block. Any increase in horse power over stock= increase in cooling over stock, you must have a larger surface area over factory stock to cool properly, fact. Using an upgraded aluminum radiator and electric fans may or may not work for your application and it may work just fine for someone else. Traveling down the road you would be surprised how little air passed through the radiator, hence the use of the engine fan blades and the ever forgotten fan shroud. Air does not want to be force into something, air likes vacuum, again the blades and fan shroud create a vacuum. I am a believer of the fan mount to the water pump and shroud, use the horse power you got. I like the idea of using a pusher fan in town driving, manual off and on switch just to “help” along. Is there such a test where you can just fill the radiator you have with water and measure it, then do the same with a stock one for the year of engine you have? Well I hope I helped, maybe some good reading.....
If it is cool driving on the highway, your radiator is fine. If it overheats stopped and idling you are not passing enough air through the radiator. It is that simple. Most flow at idle, is with one of the old OEM flex fans.
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
I have a serpentine belt system on it. No room for a shroud. Fan is about 1 1/2 away from the rad. Heats up in town driving. Fine on the road.
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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No shroud IS a problem, and your issue is a lack of air flow at low speed. A better setup would be a OEM copper radiator with a matching shroud, and the factory style viscous fan assy. JMHO
Darthomas
Ashamed to be seen in foreign cars
Engine fans don't "pull" air through a radiator without a shroud, they swipe it to the side, and the vacuum then created pulls air through.
This requires close placement if you don't have a shroud. A shroud is equal to an extra row of cooling tubes in a radiator and far cheaper.
This requires close placement if you don't have a shroud. A shroud is equal to an extra row of cooling tubes in a radiator and far cheaper.
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
Shat good does a thermostat do if not control the heat???
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
that was so what...
A thermostats job is to get your engine to it's normal operating temp as quick as possible. Most engine wear and emissions occurs when a engine is cold. Also to control the flow to allow the heat exchanger (radiator) to do its job. Other reasons are to heat up the misses as fast as possible. And has other reasons that don't concern us southerners.
If it's ok on the highway and not around town you have an airflow problem at low speed.
What does the mechanical fan look like? Is it one of those awful 4 blade fans? Or have you upgraded? If it's one of those original 4 blade fans you've found your problem, those things are terrible. And you need a fan shroud, because that significantly improves the efficiency of the mechanical fan.
What does the mechanical fan look like? Is it one of those awful 4 blade fans? Or have you upgraded? If it's one of those original 4 blade fans you've found your problem, those things are terrible. And you need a fan shroud, because that significantly improves the efficiency of the mechanical fan.
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
No it's a 7 blade fan.
Guess that would have been too easy. You're still giving up a decent amount of efficiency by not having a shroud. What size is the radiator? Is it a 22", or smaller? Sorry, I don't know a ton about the pre-67 configuration.
Had same issue 67 Dart GT 325 hp 318. Got a shroud and clutch fan 180 degree stat and runs all day in 90 degree heat at 200 on the mechanical gauge 190 on laser thermometer. Fan is half in half out of the shroud.
62 dodge
Well-Known Member
22" rad
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