This just doesn't look "right" (manual steering)

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MyD750

'71 Duster 340 TX9
Joined
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The column isn't centered, which doesn't look right. However it turns with ease, no binding, noise etc. So, is this correct? If not, please provide guidance. Manuals aren't cutting it and I don't have any example close by to work from. Thanks

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I know on my 70' Dart, the plate that holds the column to the floor is adjustable to a certain degree, maybe loosen them three bolts and the three that hold the column to the dash and see if you can shift it over a bit. the way it is now I don't think you could get a lower bearing on there without it binding.
 
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What Jeff said. You have the two bolts on the engine compartment side, and three bolts in the footwell. Loosen them all plus the column nuts under the dash and it should straighten out with some finagling.
 
The column isn't centered, which doesn't look right. However it turns with ease, no binding, noise etc. So, is this correct? If not, please provide guidance. Manuals aren't cutting it and I don't have any example close by to work from. Thanks

View attachment 1716049841
First, your coupler is nearly fallen completely apart!
7B047813-C605-4051-9294-1B8F0CD62E38.jpeg

The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.
 
that (obviously) toasted lower plastic column bushing
Believe it or not, I think that's what they look like. There is a foam donut just above it to keep stuff (wind, dirt, heat) etc from migrating up the shaft into the drivers compartment. I have a couple of floor shift columns, and they are all like that.
 
First, your coupler is nearly fallen completely apart!
View attachment 1716049862
The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.
I hate to talk bad about one of our Mopars, but that thing looks like it's steer like a boat going over waves constantly correcting the steering wheel to attempt to stay straight you could probably get a DUI sober..
 
First, your coupler is nearly fallen completely apart!
View attachment 1716049862
The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.
Yep, knew that much. Figure it will all be reworked/replaced. Just trying to figure if the angle is correct/aligned properly. Thanks
 
The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.
Why is it dangerous? You'd have to pull the column back an inch or more to get them apart. Do you think that little sheetmetal cap and bendy tabs are going to keep things together?
 
Why is it dangerous? You'd have to pull the column back an inch or more to get them apart. Do you think that little sheetmetal cap and bendy tabs are going to keep things together?
This is very true, BUT, it appears like there would be a lot of slop there... I did the kit on my 66 satellite it was 20 bucks for the pin the little pieces the new Rubber seal and a new lid the entire rebuild kit for the coupler I forget where I got it from I think I picked it up at Big Daddy's Show.
 
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The problem may be in the collapsible steering column itself.

There is plastic shear pins in there. When we converted my 68 Coronet to a manual gearbox years ago my friend Tugboat took a sledge and we beat that thing until we shared the pins to adjust the length of the column to make it work with the new gearbox.. Shady... but I was 20 something years old really didn't care, errr THINK, too much! We also did a dual front discs Conversion at the same time. Man I still miss Her!! SHE WAS BAD!
 
I figured he had taken the coupling apart on purpose, and now he was trying to put it back together...
 
Believe it or not, I think that's what they look like. There is a foam donut just above it to keep stuff (wind, dirt, heat) etc from migrating up the shaft into the drivers compartment. I have a couple of floor shift columns, and they are all like that.
Thanks, that’s the info I needed. Parts I know I need. How it should end up, correctly, I didn’t have.
 
First, your coupler is nearly fallen completely apart!
View attachment 1716049862
The part that I have circled is supposed to be inside the part just below it. This is DANGEROUS! Don’t drive this car until you’ve put this joint back together.
No intention of it moving except being pushed. Motor comes out tomorrow. After that suspension, fuel lines, brakes, steering and then prep for the body/paint work.
 
Thanks, that’s the info I needed. Parts I know I need. How it should end up, correctly, I didn’t have.
Just get the kit to rebuild the coupler and pack it full of grease, And then do the recommended bearing Upgrade, man you will love it! Unfortunately there's so many potential places in our old rides to get the steering kind of squirrely,, so it's just best to eliminate Any problems! Earlier in the thread about it I apologize about that..... it wasn't a joke on you or directed on you it was just an old car kinda joke. Hardest thing you'll have to do to do the repairs correctly is press the steel pin out of the end of the shaft! And all I can say is "at least your driving her! " Happy Moparing!
 
Thanks, that’s the info I needed. Parts I know I need. How it should end up, correctly, I didn’t have.
BTW.....1971 is the vintage that I am referring to as well.

There is some debate, especially when referring to the bearing upgrade/replacement sticky that @Professor Fate mentioned above. Great points are brought up by @72bluNblu and @Oldmanmopar .......You be the judge :thumbsup:
 
Not trying to be argumentative, but the roll pin is what holds the coupler to the splined steering gear output shaft.
No worries Ironracer..........There is a tiny pin just at the top opening of the coupler that has to be pushed out in order to remove the "guts" of the joint. The big roll pin you are referring to is at the gear box end of the coupler :)
 
No worries Ironracer..........There is a tiny pin just at the top opening of the coupler that has to be pushed out in order to remove the "guts" of the joint. The big roll pin you are referring to is at the gear box end of the coupler :)
Yes sir, i actually was talking about the Hardne Solid pin, that is in the end of the shaft itself (holds those two hardened steel, slightly rounded, but square on the "back", where the Square edges are on the Coupler, Bushings almost? if you want to call em that. I'm not sure what Chrysler calls them) that fit inside the coupler...
 
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Just get the kit to rebuild the coupler and pack it full of grease, And then do the recommended bearing Upgrade, man you will love it! Unfortunately there's so many potential places in our old rides to get the steering kind of squirrely,, so it's just best to eliminate Any problems! Earlier in the thread about it I apologize about that..... it wasn't a joke on you or directed on you it was just an old car kinda joke. Hardest thing you'll have to do to do the repairs correctly is press the steel pin out of the end of the shaft! And all I can say is "at least your driving her! " Happy Moparing!
No problem and thanks for the rebuild push. I fully understood the boat steering and laughed when I read it. You should see the rest of the car. Plenty to do with a car that sat for 30+ years, best I can tell. I really appreciate all the info that I get on here.
 
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