Thoughts on drilling holes thru good paint?

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Hemioutlaw

Hemioutlaw

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I am adding some Commando emblems to the front quarters on my 65 and will have to drill some holes for the studs. The car has some really nice paint on it and I am hoping to avoid a big chip of paint coming off.

:banghead:

I was going to place some masking tape down before I drill and I know I need to dimple somehow to center the drill point (bit afraid to center punch,lol). But small drill then bigger or drill right to size. Anyone had to do this before on nice paint? Thoughts, Ideas, horror stories?
 
Ive done this, and never chipped the paint yet. You are correct with laying the tape down. I however was using a brand new good quality drill bit so I didnt have to put any excess pressure on the panel. I also did not dimple the metal. I just marked and drilled. I didnt have any problems with the drill bit walking.

I dont know of any other ways to do this, other than the direction your looking. Perhaps others will chime in.
 
I would put down several layers of tape. Start with a small diameter bit (1/16"?) and work your way up to the correct size. I'd probably drill a single hole first, put the emblem in place (hold it with tape?) take a good squint, and mark the second hole to get it exactly level. Or draw a line on the tape using a level either horizontally or vertically depending on the stud arrangement. Then put some paint on the exposed bare metal of the holes and let it dry before the final attachment so it doesn't rust.

Or have a completely disinterested person do it for you when you're not around so you have someone to blame.
 
2 hands on the drill , low speed , sharp/new bit and I like to use a tiny bit to create a dimple -1/16 or smaller in the surface of the paint but I just drilled 4 in the inner fender without the pilot dimple last week .do not drill you pilot hole all the way through the shape of the bit point works better when the angles are the same at penetration .If you have ever had a bit jamb in the hole this is why and a stuck bit leads to chipping .
 
After you drill your holes, and before you put on the emblems, take a touch up brush and some paint and tough up the bare metal from the drill bit.
 
I would definitely not use a punch, that would in my opinion, increase the risk of the chipping, particularly is there was an adherence issue in that area.

Mask the area with quality masking tape, and use as many 'steps' as possible, starting with the smallest drill bit possible.

Also, if you have some touchup paint, I would use it in the new holes. Not just for rust, but to insure that the paint around the hole doesn't lift.

If you are really worried about the paint, another option is to cutoff the studs, fill the emblem with bondo, and use 3m 2 sided tape (3m 03609).
 
Sharp, new bits (NOT made in China), and cut SLOW. Dimple?

Get a transfer punch with a nice sharp point if you must dimple, just to lightly dimple the surface without dimpling all the way through.
 
And back off pressure at regular intervals to break up the chips, so you don't get a long spiral swinging 'round and scratching stuff.
 
First some painters tape, measuring and marking, a keen center punch, and a center drill. I think its number 4 center drill that has about 1/8 point ( I forget ).
Very small bit in a hand drill is asking for heartache. When a bit breaks the stub left in the chuck can do major carnage.
Don't forget the safety glasses.
 
I like to use a step drill for sheet metal. that being said I'm not sure they have one small enough for trim/emblem pins.
 
[QUOTE=KosmicKuda;1970422994]

Or have a completely disinterested person do it for you when you're not around so you have someone to blame.[/QUOTE]
#1 answer / LMAO

Well fella's,
All excellent ideas and dab of touch up paint to prevent rust a good one.
Just so ya'all know I've been a machinist for over 30 years (oilwell parts, not drilling holes in car bodies haha) and on break tonite before sharing
this post I asked a bunch of my coworkers the same question and came up with all the same answers. Two even said use the double sided tape and tipped me to using fishing line if you ever want to remove it. Another guy here just months from retirement who owned a body shop for over 30 years said go with the pilot hole first.

Welllllllllllll,
Now if I can just get someone to respond to my other post or this one about the exact location of these emblems we will be good to go.

:finga:
 

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Hemioutlaw said:
[QUOTE=KosmicKuda;1970422994]



Welllllllllllll,
Now if I can just get someone to respond to my other post or this one about the exact location of these emblems we will be good to go.

:finga:
Click to expand...

If you use trim/emblem tape, you can move it if you don't get it in the right spot (you just clean and re-tape).
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
If you use trim/emblem tape, you can move it if you don't get it in the right spot (you just clean and re-tape).
Click to expand...

Problem I would see with trim/emblem tape is that these emblems are not flat on the back and don't have much surface area and pretty sure the emblem would end up going bye bye.
 

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Hemioutlaw said:
Problem I would see with trim/emblem tape is that these emblems are not flat on the back and don't have much surface area and pretty sure the emblem would end up going bye bye.
Click to expand...

Fill the recess with epoxy first and you will have plenty of surface area. I have done this many times and have never lost an emblem.
 
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