Thoughts on swapping a slant 6 with a 383

Big Block A body Tech

  1. StevieC124

    StevieC124 Active Member

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    Originally my plan was to use my 360 block, which needs machine work. But considering costs and the difference, I still have interest in a 383 in my 69 dart. The motor would be basically all stock except maybe a cam.
    -I need to know if I can keep my power steering
    -Would manifolds fit better or headers
    -Is there any clearance issues with the heater
    I've been reading a lot about big block a body swaps but everyone's situation always seems different. Keep in mind I'm not asking for inquiry about which motor i should go for.
    Thanks :)
     
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    • Lefty71

      Lefty71 Well-Known Member

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      If there's a will, there's away. But I think all of these items are going to cause you difficulties. Manifolds would be great, but the right ones are $$$$, and headers are not EZ either. My situation is no heater, no power steering tho, so I'll go make the popcorn....
       
    • Professor Fate

      Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

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      First off, you need to have a plan for your motor mounts since Schumacher is in limbo. If you're looking for a bolt-in solution with the /6 K frame, your options are going to be severely limited. If you can fab, no problem.
      Power steering is doable, but depends on what you decide to use for exhaust: headers, HP manifolds or factory A body B engine manifolds. Each one has their quirks and fitment issues, nothing but the factory A manifolds are a guaranteed "no mods required" fit, and they're pricey (and restrictive).
      Clearance with the heater (blower motor) shouldn't be an issue with a B motor, but RBs do.
      Whichever engine you choose, you'll need different transmission, radiator, brakes, and probably torsion bars and rear end from the /6 stuff.
      Good luck!
       
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      • 383Scampman

        383Scampman Well-Known Member

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        Here's the rub . motor mounts , center link , transmission , rear axle , radiator , drive shaft , throttle linkage , k d linkage , you don't have to delete the heater just the fan , shift linkage . Just for starters . The difference between a stock 383 and an upgraded one , price wise, is negative . Oh yeah, oil pan swap . Manifolds are pricey . C-body manifolds are cheaper but the left side dumps right in the steering . Try-Y is a good compromise . Go for it .
         
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        • StevieC124

          StevieC124 Active Member

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          Can I keep the column shift, and where is the best place to get bigger torsion bars.
           
        • dano

          dano Evil Handy Man

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          All that makes the machining of your 360 look really good and you'll have a new motor built (hopefully) properly. So what does your block need? I like B/RB motors but a nice 360 it just as fun without the weight.
           
        • StevieC124

          StevieC124 Active Member

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          My 360 would have to be hot tanked and I’d like to bore it .030 over. New cam bearings just normal machine work. I’d say the cost to build either motor would be just about the same to be quite honest. Just putting in a B engine will require extra. By the way if it’s not clear I don’t have a 383 block yet.
           
        • halfafish

          halfafish Damn those rabbits, and their holes! FABO Gold Member

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          It looks like Schumacher is going out of business. Just about everything on their website is out of stock, and a phone call to them a few weeks ago went unreturned. However, I ordered some stuff from them very recently that DID show in stock, and I got it as expected. It's worth checking out.
           
        • Jim Lusk

          Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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          No center link changes necessary. Column shift MAY work with B-body HP manifolds, but not the '67 440 manifold. You can make your own mounts. Heater blower motor fits fine with an RB (with stock valve covers) and fits great with a B block. Power steering fits fine, just make sure you have the 90 degree pressure side fitting for the box.
           
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          • Fgill

            Fgill Well-Known Member

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            this above is 100% correct.
            Yes you will need a V8 centerlink if going from /6.
            you will need the correct oil pan as well, which are getting harder to find if want oem.
            /6 suspension & brakes, both front & rear will need an upgrade, a big block in any config drops a good bit more lbs into the front end and a bit more, via other beefed up components such as the rear axle. Guys have in the past used /6 stuff for the track to get weight transfer, but they suck on the street.
            The entire Exhaust system will need reworked/replaced.
            There is of course several different ways to approach and achieve this. where there is a will (and the wallet), there is a way. Question is, is having a bigblock worth it to you and is it right for this car. most of my later bigblock projects started with a totally stripped out donor shell, non-power steering/brakes for good reason.
            Your 360 build, if done instead, will require many of these things as well. ie: trans, rear end, exhaust, cooling system, etc. so although 'cheaper' its still requires considerable parts/system replacement/upgrades to do it correctly, its just a little more straight forward and you have plenty of oem stuff that pretty much falls right in.
             
            Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
          • halifaxhops

            halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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            Heater blower motor also. Been there. If I was going to do it again a SB!
             
          • Jim Lusk

            Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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            No, that is NOT correct. There was no slant six center link after 1965.
             
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            • Fgill

              Fgill Well-Known Member

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              Jim, back topic seraches show that you seem to really be stuck on this argument for some bizzare reason..triggered much?
              there are in fact two different links.
              To run headers, one needs the deeper drop center link, more commonly called: the V8 link, by, well nearly everyone (perhaps tis just a wee bit of semantics) the shallow one will not work "most of the time" and can also hit some oil pans or land very close to doing so.
              Plenty of info out there about this very topic and as always varying opinions..to which again you choose to argue repeatedly about. ffs.
              A lot also seems to depend on the car being worked on, the engine, the motor mounts used, the year of parts, etc.
              OP, Ive ( & many, many, many others) always gone ahead and purchased the "v8" link when converting a /6 over to B/RB drive train and never had any issues from doing so...call it a safe bet. kinda like fresh oil, new gaskets, etc..even if they are "not needed" to make the engine run....
              :drama:

              2qwleep.jpg
               
              Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
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              • 67Dart440GT

                67Dart440GT Seriously Long Member FABO Gold Member

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                I wish they'd send mine. I ordered a few weeks ago, took my money and nothing in the mail.
                 
              • Lefty71

                Lefty71 Well-Known Member

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                I thought there was a special idler and pitmans for the '68 and '69 if they got the 383??? Need definative information on this...... maybe this is it!
                Idler arm problem? Please help
                 
              • Fgill

                Fgill Well-Known Member

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                Ive heard they are officially-unofficially "done" as in, you may want to consider getting your $$ back via paypal or credit card while you can.
                You wont get any response from them, several guys in my local mopar clubs / groups are pursuing refunds as well.
                 
              • 67Dart440GT

                67Dart440GT Seriously Long Member FABO Gold Member

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                I called again today and he actually answered. He said they would be back in stock in 2-4 weeks. We'll see. Until then I got a set of trans dapt ones today. If I remember right last time I got them they sent two short mounts and I had to buy a thicker one for the passenger side... This kit is the same.

                20200220_180613.jpg
                 
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                • Jim Lusk

                  Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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                  Nope, not triggered, just passing on the correct information. You picture shows early A-body center links. There are two late links, but they are year specific ('67-72 and '73-76), not engine specific. Check the line for part 19-27-50. ONE PART NUMBER for 1967 A-body. 1967 steering link part number.jpg
                   
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                  • 66fs

                    66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    • 66fs

                      66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      360 heads flow 190-200 cfm, big block heads flow 230 cfm. 4.25" bore 3.38" stroke, internally balanced, 335 HP and 425 ft lb torque. The main things to get are the big block mounting, Jim Lusk can build you a K Frame from a 73 up spool small block K Frame or get adapter mounts, big block trans, factory big blocks had 3 row radiators, next is exhaust, then upgrade the brakes, depending on what you have now, and the rear to handle the torque. I'd go 383 before 360 any day if starting with a /6 since everything needs to be upgraded anyway.
                       
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                      • thesiren74

                        thesiren74 Well-Known Member

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                        fits fine
                        20200122_170103.jpg
                         
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                        • 67Dart440GT

                          67Dart440GT Seriously Long Member FABO Gold Member

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                          You could always go bigger...

                          Screenshot_2018-01-07-19-19-11-1.png
                           
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                          • DrCharles

                            DrCharles Well-Known Member

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                            Mine didn't fit with MP covers, until I installed the shorter blower motor AND moved it back a hair... YMMV ;)
                            P6160238.jpg
                            P6150236.jpg
                             
                          • thesiren74

                            thesiren74 Well-Known Member

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                            I had a set of those and sold them, after having them on my small block i couldn't stand how loud they are anymore. Yeah i pushed the heater motor back and sat down right in there.
                             
                          • DrCharles

                            DrCharles Well-Known Member

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                            Loud valve covers??
                            There is a fair amount of sewing-machine noise coming from my valvetrain, but it's hardly noticeable over the headers and dual 3" exhaust :)
                             
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