Throttle and kickdown cables for Super Six

[DodgeLad]

A brief write up with pics, since it seems this may work.

This is how I handled the throttle and kickdown cables going from a Holley 1bbl to Carter BBD 2bbl Super Six in my 1980 D150. Everything appears to function, but is untested as of yet.

The Rusty one found me a 2bbl bracket, so I had that to start with. I used the stock cables and made a couple easy brackets out of soft aluminum. There are two steps. First the throttle cable must be shortened, and second the kickdown assembly must be fabricated.

I. Parts List
Sleeve
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CD8T9JZ/?tag=fabo03-20

Ball Shank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038YY38K/?tag=fabo03-20

Collar (.035" allen wrench required)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXQXH49/?tag=fabo03-20

Turnbuckle
I used the smallest one Lowe's had. Out of blind luck, the length was ok. See pics.

Assorted Hardware
Various nuts, bolts, washers, clips, springs.

Make a little bracket, something like this. This one is 1 3/4" long and attaches to the carb throttle rod.

II: Steps
Determine the length of the throttle cable you need. I did a lot of measuring and ended up needing a cable nearly 8" shorter.

Remove the throttle cable. I mangled it pretty bad, but it still seems ok. Supposedly you press the sides of the plastic mount in the firewall and it comes out. Took me hours to finagle it out of there, slicing and dicing on the plastic.

Pull out the wire cable and cut the end off. The wire cable can be set aside for now.

Cut the metal sheath somewhere not too close to and end. Fine tooth metal hacksaw blade gave a nice cut.

Trim the sheath insulation back around 1/2".

Press the sleeve on the sheath. I had to trim the sheath down on the grinder a tad, and was able to use a press. The sleeve won't go on without reaming the sleeve or removing a little metal from the cable sheath.

Now cut off the excess length from the other end of the cable.

Trim the insulation. Grind down the sheath metal just enough and press it all together. Couldn't use the press this time and had to muscle it.

I heatshrunk the union.

 

[DodgeLad]

Run the wire cable back through the cable sheath. Reinstall the cable assembly and attach the carb end, making sure of free movement. Attach the other end to the gas pedal lever, using the ball shank and collar. I used two collars.

Make a bracket for the return spring.

Construct the turnbuckle kickdown assembly. Apply washers and clips as you see fit. Make creative bends to the stock kickdown rod. Once you get the rod where you want it, and that may take awhile getting it the right length and avoiding interference, adjust the new kickdown assembly and install the return spring. It's kind of nice, there is an adjustment at the turnbuckle and another at the lever on the transmission. The wingnut on the turnbuckle keeps things from moving.

 

[Charrlie_S]

Nice work, but just a heads up. The factory trans linkage had a slot where it connects to the carb (where you have the turn buckle). The purpose of the slot was to allow the carb to close, even if the kickdown linkage stuck at wide open. It is a safety measure.

 

[DodgeLad]

Nice work, but just a heads up. The factory trans linkage had a slot where it connects to the carb (where you have the turn buckle). The purpose of the slot was to allow the carb to close, even if the kickdown linkage stuck at wide open. It is a safety measure.

Thanks, yea I was looking at the old 1bbl pieces and wondered why that slot was there and read about it. The info was in an old Chrysler video which was definitely worth a watch.

I ranked it up there with texting and driving lol. Anyway, I'm going to wire in a kill switch so I'll have something failsafe.

 

[volaredon]

I'm about to go thru that hurdle as I finish the install of a fresh motor that has a super 6, in place of the original one with a 1 bbl.... I wish I could find a super 6 in the junkyard to pull the linkage from, would be easier....