Throttle kickdown, Should I cut this off?

[Cope]

Hi folks, Just got the 71 318 904 Dart running and cant seem to get my kickdown working.
I have extended the rod from manifold bell crank to tranny bell crank by 1 5/8". (the difference in old carb linkage height VS new)

I do have some kickdown but its verry minor and late.

I have read the factory service manual section on kickdow adjustment and have zero slop in linkage at WOT.

Take a look and tell me what you think.

Kickdown with drop base cleaner removed. Note how far forward the rod is.

In this pick is about where the linkage sits with the drop base air cleaner on.

Im thinking of cutting the section of "slot" off that is behing the carb throttle arm in the first pick and welding it on nice and short. Do I need that section behind the arm?

Is the fact that my linkage is pushed so far back with the aircleaner on why I have hardly any kickdown and its way late to come in?

Thanks again for the time and advice.

 

[Mopar to ya]

That is the throttle valve linkage. when the throttle is wide open, the transmission end needs to be pulled all the way forward. You will have to get on your back while someone pounds the accelerator down to check. There is no way to tell by those pics if the throttle valve lever on the transmission is wide open or not.

 

[Cope]

Throttle valve on tranny is wide open at WOT.

Im thinking that at "passing" throttle the air cleaner is holding the linkage open and thats why I dont get kickdown untill to high of speed and pedal position?

Dose that make sense or am I missing something else?

Thanks again.

 

[65Val]

2 quick things....the upper rod there is upside down...should curve from up at the carb to down at the belcrank...and 2...there should be a spring holding the slider link all the way forward (at all times).

also, your throttle cable end ("U" shaped piece) goes on the opposite side of the throttle stud from the slider, not on the carb throttle lever, where it is now.

and, worst of all.... you're missing the whole Chrysler throttle adapter bracket. This is needed to get correct geometry for throttle and throttle pressure (kickdown) systems.

 

[marksmopar1]

x2 ON 65 Val's comment , rod is upside down. flip it over prob likely solved
Yes, needs a spring, yes you need a kick down or risk trans damage!

 

[d55dave]

The slot is there for a reason - if the kickdown linkage binds or seizes for some reason the throttle can still close. It is important. Correct your linkage issues and misalignment and make sure that at WOT the kickdown linkage is as far back as it can go and you should be good.

 

[TrailBeast]

X3 on Val's info.
That rod is not just to make it go into passing gear, but controls trans pressures.
It's the pressure increase and governor/driveline speed that makes it kickdown and when, so you may need to raise your line pressure a little bit at the valve body to get it to kickdown easier/sooner.

 

[mderoy340]

I don't know the year but I think it was 73 when mopar added part throttle kickdown.

 

[Cope]

factory manifold bell crank.

cut.

welded and raised 1 5/8".

linkage rod from manifold bell crank to tranny bell crank. left side is orignal threads and right side is new parts stack that os 1 5/8" in its center range of adjustment.

Throttle cable is no longer atached to kickdown manifold bracket but mounted to its own bracket on manifold.

Dose this look like all is ok?

I cannot turn the rod over as it wont clear my 1.75" drop base air cleaner.

Kickdown return spring can be seen in first pick.

Throttle cable is bolted to that hole as in correct location secondary butterflys were not opening fully. I realise ot makes the pedal harder to push but its just negative expo to me!

Thanks again.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

... and, worst of all.... you're missing the whole Chrysler throttle adapter bracket. This is needed to get correct geometry for throttle and throttle pressure (kickdown) systems.

^ THIS ^ is important or you'll never get it working right.

 

[d55dave]

Get a different aircleaner, or clearance the base of it as required.

 

[65Val]

Throttle cable is no longer atached to kickdown manifold bracket but mounted to its own bracket on manifold. Dose this look like all is ok?

Thats fine, as long as it pulls the throttle open fully with no obstruction.

I cannot turn the rod over as it wont clear my 1.75" drop base air cleaner.

Get a new air cleaner.

Kickdown return spring can be seen in first pick.

Obviously not strong enough...must pull slider fully forward at idle.

Throttle cable is bolted to that hole as in correct location secondary butterflys were not opening fully.

Get the proper adapter. it really works...trust us!!!

 

[d55dave]

That adapter can be bought from anyone who sells Holley stuff, it is a Holley part. Last time I bought one it was fairly cheap.

 

[Cope]

The kick down linkage is pulled fully forward by the kickdown return spring.

I thought the "slot" slider should be centered on the throttle arm?
Your saying it should be touching "slot" to throttle arm at idle?

Sorry just trying to wrap my head around this..

Thanks for the time and advice.

 

[Woods74]

The correct answer is, 'Hell to the no!'

Or run a Lokar cable...

 

[d55dave]

The kick down linkage is pulled fully forward by the return spring.

I thought the "slot" slider should be centered on the throttle arm?
Your saying it should be touching "slot" to throttle arm at idle?

Sorry just trying to wrap my head around this..

Thanks for the time and advice.

The kickdown linkage increases line pressure in the transmission as it moves backwards. At WOT you want the maximum line pressure - so that the clutches and bands have their maximum holding pressure at WOT. At WOT the kickdown linkage should be as far aft as it can go.

 

[65Val]

The kick down linkage is pulled fully forward by the kickdown return spring. I thought the "slot" slider should be centered on the throttle arm? Your saying it should be touching "slot" to throttle arm at idle? Sorry just trying to wrap my head around this.. Thanks for the time and advice.

Yes. Look at the pics I posted....thats what it's supposed to look like.

 

[Cope]

Thanks brother, Thats exactly what I was looking for.

I have owned this car for 5 years an the only time it could spin the tire was in snow.
I have not owned a car that would do a burnout for 15 years an that one legger today still has me smiling! I cant wait till my kickdown works!

Fu¢k yeah, Thank you.

 

[gliderider06]

Flat base air cleaner OR get the air cleaner adaptor ring set from local parts store for around $10.00 to raise base 1/2". That is what I did. I had to take my rod from the bellcrank to the carb heat in vise and bend it the opposite way for the correct geometry. I had to also weld the slot some on mine, so that I could get full kickdown at full throttle.

 

[d55dave]

The kickdown linkage increases line pressure in the transmission as it moves backwards. At WOT you want the maximum line pressure - so that the clutches and bands have their maximum holding pressure at WOT. At WOT the kickdown linkage should be as far aft as it can go.

Let me clarify this. At WOT the kickdown should be as far back as it can be, pushed to this point by the throttle.

 

[Mopar to ya]

My brother runs a homemade adapter that holds the TV open around 80% of the way. higher line pressures for better shifts. I made one for my Ramcharger and it works pretty well. I wish I had a picture of it. I used a 1/4 thick piece of aluminum bolted to the tranny mount, and have a series of holes drilled so I can pin the TV open and adjust it from wide open back to about 75%. It seems to like 90% open. I have nothing attached to my carb at all.