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I recently put a 408 Stroker in my dart with a 4 spd trans. It keeps nocking my throw out bearing off the clutch fork. Has anyone experienced this can’t see anything wrong. But it happened twice not sure where to start?
Throw out bearing question
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More Information for PERFECTION CLUTCH MU16471
I had the same problem with this Kit. It had a plastic sleeve on the T/O bearing. I had to change it out with my old metal one till I got this new kit
More Information for PERFECTION CLUTCH MU16751G.
It had a metal sleeve. no problems with it.
I had the same problem with this Kit. It had a plastic sleeve on the T/O bearing. I had to change it out with my old metal one till I got this new kit
More Information for PERFECTION CLUTCH MU16751G.
It had a metal sleeve. no problems with it.
340 swing
340swing
I have a borg beck style 3 finger with a metal throw out bearing it all seems good but it has happened twice now
The plastic one was sloppy on the trans snout. I don't know if it was the right one or not, but the metal ones fit tighter.
Is the throwout bearing hitting the 3 fingers square? You may need someone to help you to get them to step on clutch and see how bearing mates on the clutch fingers. Also is the throw out sitting in the fork completely. Is it possible the fork has been bent from the first problem? I've been driving stick almost 60 years, converted cars to stick and bought new stick cars and never had that problem. Also make sure fork is completely set in the bell housing clip. Strange problem, but if you check every thing carefully you'll solve the problem. Good luck and it is a time consuming process to replace the T.O. bearing.
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Ne
I will get a helper today to see if it his square. I agree I’ve been at this a long time never heard or seen this before.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
additional to tonysrt.....
Is this a setup that has worked previously for you?
Do you know the parts are correct?
Fork tips and pivot not bent or worn down on an angle?
Is the fork all the way on the pivot correctly?
Release bearing retainer clips bent, too loose and just won't hold?
Is too much pedal travel allowing the clips to slide of the fork tip?
Cracked bearing retainer tube?
Is this a setup that has worked previously for you?
Do you know the parts are correct?
Fork tips and pivot not bent or worn down on an angle?
Is the fork all the way on the pivot correctly?
Release bearing retainer clips bent, too loose and just won't hold?
Is too much pedal travel allowing the clips to slide of the fork tip?
Cracked bearing retainer tube?
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This is a new set up to me correct part number bell housing for a 70 abody clutch fork and pivot are correct 12 1/2 long (two hump looking pivot) not sure how else to describe it. Clutch pressure plate and flywheel I bought together 3 finger style the bearing came with clutch but not in a box it’s new but I have no idea if it’s correct also I don’t have an over center spring not sure if that could affect it. I don’t mind the stiff pedal but not sure if it needed. Bearing retainer is good no cracks.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
When the release bearing comes off, is it that one spring is on the fork deeper and one is off, or are both off?
Can you back off on the clutch release adjust and still disengage the plate?
Is your driver side engine and the trans mount good?
Can you back off on the clutch release adjust and still disengage the plate?
Is your driver side engine and the trans mount good?
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Update: I put bearing back on fork both clips look stretched out. Bearing is centered correctly moves free and touches all 3 fingers equally the pivot is correct. Had a helper push clutch in and found zbar was moving up and down slightly. Removed zbar the outer stud only had one bushing half in it. No clue how it came out, it was in there when I put zbar in.but the seal was torn and one piece missing. I’m ordering a new bearing to be safe.
By any chance was engine running at the time you checked this out? Could be with engine running maybe see another problem with the clutch fingers. And another question is disc in correctly? Just trying to cover all bases.
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I used an old input shaft to install it I torqued all the bolts flywheel side is facing flywheel. I think I covered it all. Where can I get a quality bearing I don’t want some China garbage and is there only one for small blocks? Hays shows a few diameter ones
To give you a little of my history, I have a 71 Cuda original 383 4 speed car. No engine at the time put 440 in it and ran with 4 speed. I had B&B clutch in it. I then put a crate hemi and a Tremec 5 speed but with a diaphram clutch. After using that set up I would never go back to the B&B. I don't race the car so I enjoy the easier effort of the new clutch. I also removed the over center spring. I'm not sure what you mean about the fork clips that hold the bearing in place being stretched out. Maybe clips are not holding bearing secure enough.
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When bearing came off fork it damaged the clips they bent
Do you know when bearing comes off fork? When you step on the clutch? Is it too much throw on the fork pushing bearing too far into clutch? Does the bearing turn smoothly? The bearing face turning on the fingers would prevent the throwing. It seems like it must bind up at some point to throw it off the fork.
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Definitely when clutch is pushed in. The bearing spins free. I feel pretty confident that fixing the zbar and replacing bearing will fix it.
I do hope that is your fix because it is the easiest fix possible. Everything else would be a major chore, removing tranny etc..
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I started lubricating the Z-bar bushing and basically anything else that spins moves or slides with synthetic disc brake grease, because it won't attack plastic or rubber and its one of the most complete greases with PTFE, Moly and teflon mixed into it's additive package. Amazing anti washout, heat and persistence qualities too.
Anyway, I had the fork fall off the throw out bearing a few years back and it left me stranded after a car show. Had to get towed home. It turned out that my pressure plate had failed at one of the 3 fingers, but they looked good when released. I had Mcleod rebuild the clutch and I installed the American Powertrain hydraulic clutch kit. My clutch has never worked so well in the 42 years I've had the car.
While you are under the car, take the time to ensure that all your linkage rods etc sit dead flat on the Z-bar pins and the opposite side of the rods do the same. In other words, make sure the joints in the entire mechanical clutch release system are square to each other. I had to bend and straighten some of the connection joints to get everything perfectly lined up in the past. It made a world of difference, but the hydraulic set-up is still superior.
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Is there any way to test a pressure plate? I would hate to put it back together to find out the pressure plate was defective. I feel pretty confident the initial problem was the zbar bushing I willl replace the throw out bearing and inspect everything else.
If the z bar is cocking the fork, that may be the problem. The only thing make sure none of the fingers were broken or distorted as a result of throwing the bearing. You did say that bearing was flush with the fingers when clutch was depressed so still may be an iffy fix.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I believe the issue with mine was a partial fracture at the pivot point on one of the fingers that allowed it to distort when pressed, but I'm not sure it was visible without a disassembly and inspection.
Once you "bluprint", rebuild and relubricate your z-bar assembly, you should be ok. I would also use some plyers and carefully close up the gap on the throw out bearing retaining clips, so the hold on to the fork better. Inspect the contact areas of the fork pads and the throw out bearing pads for any deformation, nicks or burrs.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
This is from the MP chassis manual. It's a jig without any direction on how to use...…..
The .310" dimension I relate to the disc thickness. Evidently the finger tops should come out to the 1.700" dimension when this is between the pressure plate and flywheel bolted together. I had a .310" plate made from an old 3/8" ram spacer. I use a depth mic between two fingers at a time measuring down to the plate. I imagine one could get real close with just some quality 5/16" flat stock.
On this new pressure plate I found one finger .050" short using this. The nut on the right was adjusted. A good eye can spot the extra peens. The other two were right there.
The .310" dimension I relate to the disc thickness. Evidently the finger tops should come out to the 1.700" dimension when this is between the pressure plate and flywheel bolted together. I had a .310" plate made from an old 3/8" ram spacer. I use a depth mic between two fingers at a time measuring down to the plate. I imagine one could get real close with just some quality 5/16" flat stock.
On this new pressure plate I found one finger .050" short using this. The nut on the right was adjusted. A good eye can spot the extra peens. The other two were right there.
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