Tired of Body Filler Hardening Too Quickly?

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i've painted and done body work many years, my first total paint job was a 67 dart in 1975 back in those days when you spread the filler you had to wait 15-20 minutes for it to set before you could sand, todays fillers i can't even get it spread before it set's. evercoats metal to metal gives plenty of time to work but it is harder to work with.
 
Had my filler, hardener in the fridge for the night. After mixing up at 68F, it took exactly 4m30s for curing. At 87F it took 90 seconds.
I cant work with that kind of product. Is my filler a defective product? What am I doing wrong? Is there not some kind of chemical I can add to the mix to slow down the curing?
 
I believe BadChad talks about mixing resin with body filler....will have to find that video again. I believe the catalyzing time is 6-7 minutes so you have to get good enough at working it to stay within the zone. I'm borderline on speed.
 
I have added resin to body filler. It gives a smooth application. Great for when you get towards the bottom of the can, and can extend cure times.
 
Agreed. Its a catalyzing process. I'm not sure how much ambient temp plays into it.
A bunch, and the temp of the metal its applied to, and humidity.
I really do not have that problem here, but I will do most of the body work on my own cars over the winter, in the garage where I can control the temp, and the humidity is low.
I even use a infera-red gun to test the metal and material going on, I like to keep both at 70 degrees. This includes primer and paint.
 
I even use a infera-red gun to test the metal and material going on, I like to keep both at 70 degrees. This includes primer and paint.
YES!! For us guys whre life if HOT! or tying to prime/paint outside,YES use the HF temp gun and see how hot that metal is!!!!!!!!!
 
YES!! For us guys whre life if HOT! or tying to prime/paint outside,YES use the HF temp gun and see how hot that metal is!!!!!!!!!
And I have found the best time to shoot is right at daylight, when the dew is still on to keep the dust down, and no bugs.
I have everything prepped the night before, so all I have to do is wipe the car down, fill the paint cup. Yes I am shooting in a garage.
 
And I have found the best time to shoot is right at daylight, when the dew is still on to keep the dust down, and no bugs.
I have everything prepped the night before, so all I have to do is wipe the car down, fill the paint cup. Yes I am shooting in a garage.
Back in the late 89s early 90s I used 2 different guys for body/ paint. One guy was a case a day beer drinker but the best body man ever. Or I should say as good as the best. He was wayyyyy out in the stcks. Anyway, he said best time to shoot single stage was when there was some humidity. He could lay it down as shiney as anyones best bc/cc.
 
Back in the late 89s early 90s I used 2 different guys for body/ paint. One guy was a case a day beer drinker but the best body man ever. Or I should say as good as the best. He was wayyyyy out in the stcks. Anyway, he said best time to shoot single stage was when there was some humidity. He could lay it down as shiney as anyones best bc/cc.
Use a hot plate to warm the single stage paint up, it will flow like glass.
 
Use a hot plate to warm the single stage paint up, it will flow like glass.
The key is in the reducer temp. I always use a very slow reducer and they even have an additive to slow it even more. Think about if you have ever sprayed high build urethane primer on too hot of metal!!!
 
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