Tired of DIY!

Discussion in 'Small Block Mopar Engine' started by KnuckleDuster, Jul 29, 2018.

  1. KnuckleDuster

    KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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    Obviously I suck at sorting out this small block stroker!
    Really just want to send it out to someone who can make it run like it should and not leak a drop of anything.
    Spent a week putting it back together after head porting, in Texas 110` heat, only to have it leave puddles and run worse than before.
    I'd like to find a pro who can go through it and dyno it. I just don't have the experience and tools to get it perfect.
    Any of you gurus willing to take it on, pm me, my patience is gone.
    I can palletise it.
     
  2. fishmens67

    fishmens67 Well-Known Member

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    110 temps , could be your brain is boiling. lol I know mine does at times and I can't do anything right, even though I've them/it many times.
     
  3. moper

    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I can relate... Spent all fay wrestling the HVAC box out of our Stratus... SOmetimes DIY just sucks... lol
     
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    • RAMM

      RAMM Well-Known Member

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      What exactly is the problem? J.Rob
       
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      • nm9stheham

        nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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        Yes, please explain the leaks and the running issues. It may be all fixable locally and in-car.
         
      • diymirage

        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline FABO Gold Member

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        Don't be dragging me into this
         
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        • GTXperience

          GTXperience Orig Stealth Mod

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          Knuckle, I feel your pain (temp-wise). A coupe of days ago, I was forced to be outside under the hood when it was 108 and lasted almost an hour before calling it quits. I hope you find the right person to help you or if you try and tackle it again, stay hydrated and get a canopy over you & your work area. GL.
           
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          • KnuckleDuster

            KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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            Sorry for the late response. I went to bed.

            The leak must be the rear main.
            The cam plug was obviously leaking so I thought that must have been it.
            Dripping down the inspection cover on the bellhousing...I did find oil on top of the starter...but I wiped my finger on the heads all over the back corners and came up dry, so I don't think its the valve covers. Sending unit fitting is dry as a bone.

            Motor doesn't sound or pull right.

            Timing is 20/34.

            Carb is whistling intermittently and stops when I move the throttle. Hoping it's not a leak at the shaft. It's hard to tell where the sound is coming from.

            Lifter preload was set at 3/4 turn with the intake off. Comp Pro Magnum rockers. Valvetrain is very noisy! More than before.

            If I can take the heat and have any energy after work, going to pull some plugs and take the carb back off for a look and new base gasket.

            Another thing to note. The gas in the tank has been in it since February, but the carb was drained when pulled.
             
          • Aaron65

            Aaron65 Well-Known Member

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            I think your comments give you a good plan of attack...
            First, I'd get rid of that old gas if I could to eliminate it as a variable. Gas can go bad within a couple of months if untreated, although I'd suspect that's not your problem.
            Second, get some of that UV testing dye to really see where the oil leak is coming from. You don't want to pull the engine again if you don't have to.
            Third, did you check the valvetrain geometry/pushrod length? If you have and it's good, play with lifter preload. I've had valvetrains that were loud at 3/4 turn quiet down at 1/4 turn.
            Fourth, make sure your vacuum ports on the carb are plugged (regarding the carb whistle). I've had carbs whistle with certain spacer designs, as well.

            Take a breather, regroup, and go at it again...some problems seem to solve themselves after a good night's sleep. I'm sure others will have other suggestions, too.
             
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            • nm9stheham

              nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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              If it is a common Holley, you can get new teflon bushings for the throttle shaft bores in the base plate. Taking that apart takes some care and time but it is indoor work!

              Rear seals can and are often replaced in-car. A lift is a blessing so if that leak is bad enough and bothersome, then maybe that is something good to job out. I personally can stand a bit of a rear seal leak; it doesn't effect engine operation; but it depends on how bad it is, and maybe if you have a manual trans.

              Some valvetrain noise is tolerable, at least in the short tern. Unless something is off or going bad, like a lobe, then that can go on lower priority, IMHO. Of course, simple preload changes with the valve covers off would not take long.

              For sure change out the fuel and get that possible problem out of the way.
               
            • KnuckleDuster

              KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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              Leaking just enough to probably get me thrown off the track and piss me off.
              Gonna go at least another 1/4 maybe 1/2 turn on the preload.
              The UV dye is a good suggestion. What brand and is it available at most stores?

              ...yeah, just feel like I got kicked in the nads, and need to regroup. The heat is almost unbearable in my garage, even with the doors open and three fans going.
               
            • furyus2

              furyus2 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Don't give up. I know that I can't think straight when I get hot.
              Try doing one issue at a time. That keeps you from overwhelmed. If you wiggle the throttle lever, and hear a change in the whistle sound, it's probably the worn shaft.
               
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              • MrJLR

                MrJLR Built, not bought FABO Gold Member

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                These (hopefully) are not "I need it to get to work on Monday" cars...
                So step back.....even if God forbid you have to pull the engine again. ....the weather will cool down in time and so will you. ....

                I DEFINITELY know the feeling. ....

                Jeff
                 
              • yellow rose

                yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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                You need to call Mike at B3 racing engines and get his geometry correction kit first. Highly unlikely with those rockers your geometry is correct.

                Then work on your oil leaks and tune up.
                 
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                • Aaron65

                  Aaron65 Well-Known Member

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                  • mderoy340

                    mderoy340 Well-Known Member

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                    Check the rear corners of the china wall and intake/head area for oil. Also the bottom of the distributor housing has 2 drain holes, oil can wick up the shaft and drip on the back of the block. This happened to me with a brand new distributor that the bottom bushing was driven in to far. I always retorque the intake manifold at least 3 times after heat cycling.
                     
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                    • KnuckleDuster

                      KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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                      When I pulled the engine, I didn't see any real evidence the rear main was leaking...and then there's the oil on the starter...weird.
                      I know the cam plug was leaking. I put the correct one in and slathered it in Ultra-Grey Permatex, and peened the center. I doubt it is leaking now.

                      The carb is a Proform 750 with maybe 1000 mi on it.
                      I am running a Lokar throttle cable and kickdown. I don't think this setup puts any undue stress on the throttle shaft.
                      Even with a stethescope , nothing is conclusive on the carb or valvetrain.
                      It's not one lobe louder than the others, and I measured a bunch of them while I was in the engine.

                      YR- I talked to B3 but he was swamped with Carlisle and never got back to me.

                      I didn't get my AFR meter in yet, and haven't pulled plugs yet. So drained today I actually left work early, which is unusual, just trying to get my thoughts together to attack it later this week.
                      Thanks guys!
                      I appreciate the suggestions and empathy.
                      After the head porting, I was excited and thought yesterday would be badass, not more issues, it was a hard hit.
                       
                    • nm9stheham

                      nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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                      As friend likes to say, "The machinery always wins..." But it'll come right. I bet there are a few dozen guys here thinking "If I was local, I'd be right over."
                       
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                      • KnuckleDuster

                        KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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                        I tried to be methodical measuring pushrods and preload, but I bet I got it wrong somehow.
                        My pushrods are 7.550, I bet I'm not getting full lift, even beyond the standard losses due to geometry. I originally ordered them before the engine was together based on the math alone, but that was ten years ago, maybe they are too short.

                        Was running rich right before teardown, due to serious choke misadjustment. I cleaned them with carb cleaner, but wonder if they are a factor as well.

                        Just more info for those trying to help...
                         
                      • superchargeddrt

                        superchargeddrt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        I feel you pain brother. I just had to pull my new 418 stroker back out because of a oil leak. It leaked to bad that it got oil all the way back to my new gas tank and even on the rear bumper. I bought some leak detection due and a black light flashlight and it looks like it was the oil pan gasket. It was just like yours leaking into the bell housing. This time I didn't use any silicone but instead used Permatex High Tack. I built the high track up at the seams. I am out of town right now but I will probably start it up on Friday, I'll let you know how it works out.
                         
                      • yellow rose

                        yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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                        Call him back. He's a great guy and knows his stuff. It's worth the time, effort and money to fix your geometry.
                         
                      • furrystump

                        furrystump Well-Known Member

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                        If it's a slow leak
                        I made a small sheet metal piece that attaches to the inspection plate bolts. Sandwich a piece of pig mat and don't give it a second thought! I change it once a year.
                         
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                        • nm9stheham

                          nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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                          If by 'them', you mean the plugs, I sometimes set a carboned up set aside; they seem to not clean up all that easily. Just give yourself the best shot to get past this.
                           
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                          • MOPEkidD-3

                            MOPEkidD-3 Torsional Member

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                            Get that old gas out of there, modern ethanol-gas goes bad in a few months or less esp. in high heat if left vented to the open air and will definitely make it run like crap. FWIW when I overhauled the 318 in my Duster and incorrectly installed the replacement rear main seal it didn't leave much oil residue on the engine or bellhousing at all but whenever the car was driven and then parked there would be 5-10 oil drops that would accumulate right under the lowest part of the bellhousing. Also looking up between the crank and flex plate/back of the oil pan area I could see oil coming from that area. I finally got fed up with leaving oil puddles everywhere and replaced the rear main seal with the engine in the car, it wasn't too bad and if it's the newer hard rubber type they're pretty easy to push around the "back" side of the crankshaft to remove.

                            Wrenching in high heat does suck bigtime, depending on the humidity of your area (I know TX is generally pretty humid, it works better in dry air) try soaking a towel to hang around your neck and/or your shirt in water. And drink lots of ice-cold water, beer will just make your brain work even worse and sugary soda is bad for your health (and no diet soda isn't better), plus the frequent need to pee will force you to take breaks and go inside lol.
                             
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                            • B3RE

                              B3RE B³ Racing Engines

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                              My apologies for not getting back to you after Carlisle, but I did ask you to send me a reminder the following Monday. Things get pretty hectic during the show, and in the immediate aftermath, so it got lost in the shuffle.

                              Feel free to ask any questions, and if you can't get the engine sorted out, I'd be willing to check it out, if you're willing to ship it.
                               
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