KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Didn't mean to sound like I was faulting you for it. Fact is I had to get the motor back in and so the conversation got put on the back burner.
I'll be in touch soon. Thanks!
Tired of DIY!
- Thread starter KnuckleDuster
- Start date
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Didn't mean to sound like I was faulting you for it. Fact is I had to get the motor back in and so the conversation got put on the back burner.
I'll be in touch soon. Thanks!
B3RE, your mail box is full. Need info on geometry alignment kit.
Sorry about that, it's clear now.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yep, we do this when we are working up in the rafters of hot factories in summer, pulling cable. We keep a cooler with ice and water in it and some terry cloth rags soaking that we can wrap around our necks or drape over out heads under out hard hats. Works wonders!
snailpower
Well-Known Member
Keep at it man, if it were easy everyone would be doing it. ;)
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Update:
Went a 1/2 turn more on the lifter preload and it runs much better.
Still louder than it was, but I was running .015 shims on the rockers shafts before. A few got bent, and waiting on replacements, might be contributing to the racket. I listened with a stethescope, nothing knocking or tapping, just like a really loud sewing machine.Same on both sides.
Put new FR5 plugs in and got all the old gas out. Gonna check new plugs this morning.
Got leaks on both header gaskets, guess Remflex are a one time seal deal.
The Proform 750 street carb is definitely whistling at the throttle shaft, but the idle is holding pretty steady, regardless.
I also have a Holley 750 vacuum secondary with the same problem. Would like to fix both at the same time.
Throttle shaft ribbons are what I need? Or some other bushing?
Any chance it's the same part for both carbs?
I am still doing coffee and breakfast, will look and get more info...
Took the car for a 40 mile round trip to a hot rod night at a burger place. Other than noises, it was doing pretty good, until I lost power boost to the brakes just as I got there.
Figured the fuse died on my electric pump, but it was running. Think the check valve may have failed, but hard to hear with everything going on. Will check with my Mityvac...just praying its not the booster diaphragm.
Fluid was full, but different color in the smaller ( rear brakes) pot. I run DOT 5, could burnouts at the track create enough heat to change the color?
Went a 1/2 turn more on the lifter preload and it runs much better.
Still louder than it was, but I was running .015 shims on the rockers shafts before. A few got bent, and waiting on replacements, might be contributing to the racket. I listened with a stethescope, nothing knocking or tapping, just like a really loud sewing machine.Same on both sides.
Put new FR5 plugs in and got all the old gas out. Gonna check new plugs this morning.
Got leaks on both header gaskets, guess Remflex are a one time seal deal.
The Proform 750 street carb is definitely whistling at the throttle shaft, but the idle is holding pretty steady, regardless.
I also have a Holley 750 vacuum secondary with the same problem. Would like to fix both at the same time.
Throttle shaft ribbons are what I need? Or some other bushing?
Any chance it's the same part for both carbs?
I am still doing coffee and breakfast, will look and get more info...
Took the car for a 40 mile round trip to a hot rod night at a burger place. Other than noises, it was doing pretty good, until I lost power boost to the brakes just as I got there.
Figured the fuse died on my electric pump, but it was running. Think the check valve may have failed, but hard to hear with everything going on. Will check with my Mityvac...just praying its not the booster diaphragm.
Fluid was full, but different color in the smaller ( rear brakes) pot. I run DOT 5, could burnouts at the track create enough heat to change the color?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you are running shims now that means your geometry was wrong and you made it worse. You can NOT just move the shaft up and no I don't care that it's only .015.
If you use your imagination picture a line through the centerline of the valve going up to a length of 1 FOOT above the tip of the valve. Now (for the ease of picturing what we are discussing) imagine your rockers are mounted with junk studs. Run an imaginary line up from the rocker stud centerline up 1 FOOT from the top of the rocker.
Now, where do the two lines intersect? Most likely, no more that 4-5 inches from the top of the valve.
That means when you shim the start UP, without moving the shaft AWAY from the valve you are ******* up the geometry WAY worse that it even was when you started.
I apologize for the F bomb but dammit, you have to stop and think about what you are doing. Too many Chrysler guys just don't get rocker geometry and even more don't care. If Dave Hughes gave a **** he wouldn't sell junk shims like that. Not that you got them from him but I know he sells them and he and I have had several heated discussions when he tells guys his rockers fix geometry (which they don't) and they are close enough to to shim with a flat shim (they ain't).
So unless you want to keep screwing **** up, STOP STOP STOP and fix the dam geometry. I know, for a FACT you stuff is wrong and wrong is WRONG WRONG WRONG.
Call Mike at B3 racing engines and let him help you.he makes a kit that is economical and works like jack the bear. Stop and call him and fix this NOW.
BTW, I get nothing from Mike, ask nothing from Mike and expect nothing from Mike. But when another engine builder makes a product so damn good and so economical I send anyone his way I can for the sake or YOUR engine.
The guy is smart and a damn good guy. He will help you.
Now STOP and fix your geometry.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Umm.. i meant spacer shims between the rockers...
Mopar Performance Rocker Arm Spacer Sets P3690896
I do get it.
I have contacted Mike and got the rundown on pricing for a bunch of stuff including his kit. Just can't afford to do it yet.
(Not being smartass at all YR!
You have helped me lot with some issues!)
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KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Looks like my NOS GM vacuum pump is dying...not pulling hardly any suction.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The shafts look identical, with the shallow recesses in the shafts on either side. If by 'ribbons' you mean the thin teflon strips that serve as bushings on either side of the shafts, that is the part. Hopefully that will tighten things up, controlling any air leaks has a big effect on being able to make effective adjustments to the off-idle settings.
Glad to hear things are progresssing... keep at it!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
YR
gotta agree with you even if it was a different topic
on a SBM even with stock rockers the geometry gets off with High Lift cams
and when you put any roller rocker, longer chevy rockers and/ or longer valves you can get into trouble real quick as shown using your example
There is a difference between geometry- the way I see it, and having the rocker tip/ roller somewhere near the center of the valve- at least not coming off the edge which is what the backspacing solves
you can have the half lift fulcrum position correct height - which IMHO is geometry- and still have to backspace
and as you said- just raising the shafts makes it worse and a second go around with new stands or Mike at B3's spacers are required
Magnums require a different fix
gotta agree with you even if it was a different topic
on a SBM even with stock rockers the geometry gets off with High Lift cams
and when you put any roller rocker, longer chevy rockers and/ or longer valves you can get into trouble real quick as shown using your example
There is a difference between geometry- the way I see it, and having the rocker tip/ roller somewhere near the center of the valve- at least not coming off the edge which is what the backspacing solves
you can have the half lift fulcrum position correct height - which IMHO is geometry- and still have to backspace
and as you said- just raising the shafts makes it worse and a second go around with new stands or Mike at B3's spacers are required
Magnums require a different fix
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
The vacuum pump seems to be unavailable.
GM 215-119
Standard Motor Products VCP-103
Wonder if it might be repairable?
GM 215-119
Standard Motor Products VCP-103
Wonder if it might be repairable?
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Any reason to just not change to a newer pump? There are a number out there.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
My apologies. I misread what you posted and that's on me. I get a bit excited over geometry because over the years the only fix (until the B3 kit came along) was to mill the stands off and use offset stands and shafts.
Mikes deal makes it so easy there is no reason to not use it.
Again, I apologize. Glad you are working with Mike.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Looking around but most are too big to mount where I want and from what I read they are even louder than mine.
This type-
Universal Electric Vacuum Pump Kit 12v For Power Brakes | eBay
This one looked kind of interesting, but no idea of quality. Looks small enough to hide under my battery tray where I have mine.
Billet Power Brake 12V Electric Vacuum Pump Street Kit | eBay
If you know of other good options, I'd love to hear about them!
Gonna pull mine Wednesday and see if I can save it. Money is tight right now.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
No worries, bud, not the least bit offended. I should have been more clear.
Mike quoted me a ballpark on basically blueprinting my entire engine along with the geometry. I just can't swing the cash right now.
At some point, I will at least get his geometry correction kit, it makes too much sense to me not to.
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
There are several different sized ribbons. Not sure which I need.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Here is a Dorman one used on Ford and Dodge diesel pickups:
Dorman 904-214 ...$60-70. And a pigtail is sold for the connection. With the cash being tight, you might find it in a j-yard for a F250-550 Super Duty with the 7.3 or 6.0 L diesel, '99-'07. I'll bet these will be around for a long time. But I cannot tell you the flow volume of these pumps.
As for the ribbons, I think your carb is 4150 based so I'd look to verify that, and then buy for that Holley version, or whatever one is the basis for your carb.
Dorman 904-214 ...$60-70. And a pigtail is sold for the connection. With the cash being tight, you might find it in a j-yard for a F250-550 Super Duty with the 7.3 or 6.0 L diesel, '99-'07. I'll bet these will be around for a long time. But I cannot tell you the flow volume of these pumps.
As for the ribbons, I think your carb is 4150 based so I'd look to verify that, and then buy for that Holley version, or whatever one is the basis for your carb.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Or just ditch the power brakes, A-bodies really don't need braking assist... got manual brakes on my Duster and it's perfect, not hard at all to stop quick just needs a bit more foot pressure (and the feel is much better, very easy to feel when they want to lock up)
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
DIY- or and I sometimes call it DYI (do yourself in lol.) For some people who can't do or fix things will have that one thing which is left to someone else to handle so they can try and enjoy whatever that "one thing" is. And maybe this is your "one thing."
For me it's the outboard motor on my Bassboat. I don't work on it much beyond simple repairs. Could I learn, sure. Will I learn, nope. I take it to a man who knows them and when I get things done it can go right in the water with 100% confidence end of discussion.....
It sound like your problems are minimal things (plural) that are creating all your problems. Easily remedied but if what I wrote make sense to you then screw it and when your funds allows take it to whomever you trust and let them get you sorted out so you can enjoy your car. It's just that simple...
Good luck man,
JW
For me it's the outboard motor on my Bassboat. I don't work on it much beyond simple repairs. Could I learn, sure. Will I learn, nope. I take it to a man who knows them and when I get things done it can go right in the water with 100% confidence end of discussion.....
It sound like your problems are minimal things (plural) that are creating all your problems. Easily remedied but if what I wrote make sense to you then screw it and when your funds allows take it to whomever you trust and let them get you sorted out so you can enjoy your car. It's just that simple...
Good luck man,
JW
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
I've been considering doing just that
I need to look into what I would need to change. Bracket, pushrod, and MC?
Is there a lightweight MC for manual?
Is he proportioning valve different? I didn't think so, but is there more to it?
Haven't driven anything with manual brakes, that I can remember...
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KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The manual brake master cylinder will bolt to the firewall without a bracket. It bolts straight to the firewall.
Order a pushrod at the same time as the master cylinder.
Same prop valve.
I've never asked about a light weight master cylinder. I figured losing all the associated crap that goes with the power brakes was weight savings enough. But that doesn't mean you can't get one. The big thing is to get the correct piston size. I'm using 15/16.
The manual brakes stop better for me than the power does. My first car was a 72 Demon. I rebuilt the calipers when I did the brake job and it still didn't want to stop. So I converted it to manual and it stopped like jack the bear.
That was 1981. I always ditch the power brakes. Then I never have to worry about what cam I run.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
when I converted my manual drum brake 68 Polara over to 73 New Yorker front discs I kept the non power master cylinder- I had collected a couple of power units but hard to get parts for them or rebuild so I never installed - worked
I did put in smaller rear wheel cylinders to prevent premature rear brake lock up
and I checked the check valves in the master cylinder and removed and replaced as necessary
never needed and adjustable proportioning valve
but it would lock the fronts first on ice- that's where a light pedal plus pushing on the parking brake while holding the release up comes in- you can still stear
I did put in smaller rear wheel cylinders to prevent premature rear brake lock up
and I checked the check valves in the master cylinder and removed and replaced as necessary
never needed and adjustable proportioning valve
but it would lock the fronts first on ice- that's where a light pedal plus pushing on the parking brake while holding the release up comes in- you can still stear
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Wow that says something if it was a C-body, I drove a couple but they both had power brakes, one front drum one was front disc and they both stopped surprisingly well for a land yacht from the 1970s. I put new shoes on the drum brake one and it sounded like a freight train coming to a stop lol
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