Top Starter hole

Electrical and Ignition

  1. clementine

    clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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    Hey FABO!
    Thrashing on the barracuda and while engine is out of car I'm trying not to create a problem down the road. The top hole on the mini starter is larger. I made an insert to take up the slop and am thinking niw that it's larger for adjustment.....yes? Or special bolt?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Cal Tonsley

    Cal Tonsley Well-Known Member

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    Used a stud (photo of kit from Mancini) in the top hole on my SBM

    5F5CB9F9-5ACF-4048-9C41-1BF1E15C5CF8.jpeg
     
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    • RedFish

      RedFish Well-Known Member

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      the top one was a stud so we could hang that heavy starter on it rather than try to hold the starter up and possibly cross thread a bolt.
       
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      • lilfontleroy

        lilfontleroy annoyinglilLeroy FABO Gold Member

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        can you show us this? I have a couple of minis and I don't recall that issue.
         
      • clementine

        clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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        I'll get a picture later in the day. I put the header on last night. The top hole is definitely bigger. I put 7/16 in both of them. It was a parking lot purchase off of CL and this is my first mopar A body, so maybe i bought garbage.

        Thanks for the reply.
         
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        • yellow rose

          yellow rose Overnight Sensation FABO Gold Member

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          AFAIK, all the starters have the bigger top hole. I can’t use the stud (scatter shield) so I’ve been making bushings up for that for a long time.

          Even if it’s an OE bell housing or a torqueflite, it may not be possible to use the stud with certain headers.

          You did it right.
           
        • mopowers

          mopowers Well-Known Member

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          The starter aligns by the pilot on the nose of the starter in the transmission, so I wouldn't think a bushing would be necessary. Just use a washer and be done with it.
           
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          • yellow rose

            yellow rose Overnight Sensation FABO Gold Member

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            True, but Chrysler used a stud with a shank that fit the hole.

            The tolerance for the nose cone is pretty wide. The only one I ever checked (summer of 1981) was on a brand new Lakewood scatter shield and my 1972 OR bell housing. IIRC, the OE bell was much looser than the Lakewood, but they were both pretty roomy. Like .060 or something.

            With that much room when the starter engages the flywheel it tends to pull the starter closer to the flywheel.
             
          • CRUZE 418

            CRUZE 418 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I tapped my Lakewood and went with the larger bolt.
             
          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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            The nub on the end of the nose cone is ALL that is needed to locate the starter. It's been that way since the introduction of the big, large by huge Chrysler gear reduction starters. Once the starter is put against the transmission and the lower bolt is even finger tightened against the starter, it is LOCATED. There is no room for adjustment, even with the nut OFF the top starter hole. It cannot go ANYWHERE at that point. Look at the locating nubs on both the original design and the mini starter. THAT'S how they are made. The top hole is simply over sized for ease of installation. There is no need for an insert. See the circled areas.

            BIG MOPAR STARTER.jpg MOPAR MINI STARTER.jpg
             
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            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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              Here are the corresponding locating holes for both auto and manual. The stock stud is fine with no insert, although a larger washer might be useful. You could probably install the starter with JUST the bottom bolt, tighten it good and it will work, since it's in the right place.....although I don't recommend it. lol

              TORQUEFLITE STARTER HOLE.JPG MOPAR BELLHOUSING.jpg
               
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              • clementine

                clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                Ok great. Puttinga stud in the top hole and getting rid of shimmy job. Here is the picture. Top hole big. Friggin top hole. I'll find a stud although im tempted to use a bolt as the starter would have to move forward to be removed.... and there is a header in the way......meh, i could probably get it out....ill try! Then this is going in the car! I have other problems that arrived today

                16060741309372104332837.jpg

                1606074264128700595647.jpg

                20201122_110422.jpg
                 
              • yellow rose

                yellow rose Overnight Sensation FABO Gold Member

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                Measure how much slop there is in the hole the starter pilots into. I’m betting is .060 or so, and that a lot.
                 
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                • cudamark

                  cudamark FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  IIRC, the factory used a stud/nut in the bottom hole, and a bolt in the top starter hole. On automatics, they also had a cooling line bracket on the bottom stud too.
                   
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                  • lilfontleroy

                    lilfontleroy annoyinglilLeroy FABO Gold Member

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                    now I know why I don't recall an issue :thumbsup:
                     
                  • RustyRatRod

                    RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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                    I believe it varied. I have seen them as you describe, but my 64 Valiant has the stud on top. When I got the car it was that way and had not been touched, still with the original starter in place.
                     
                    Last edited: Nov 23, 2020 at 9:19 AM
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