Tore down my 383...

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RustyRatRod said:
Me and you BOTH!
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As am I, of course, I don't have the forum smarts like many of you; so what could I possibly know. By the way, since you all love pictures, here you go. And I'll thank you to keep your snide remarks to yourself. In all of my years, I have not seen that kind of "surface imperfection" on a crank - not once, until now. I don't know everything - if I did I wouldn't be here now would I? I haven't had a project car since I sold my 73 Challenger, back in '96. I never stop learning - in this field, you can't; and
I thought I could learn something on this forum, I did - many of you are the typical "forum know it alls, " until your not. I did receive some credible help from some of you, and not all of you fall into the above category; and for that - thank you.

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It looks like a sloppy re-ring and bearing job to me. They probably didn't hone the cylinders.
I think the flex plate is on backwards. lol
 
fishmens67 said:
It looks like a sloppy re-ring and bearing job to me. They probably didn't hone the cylinders.
I think the flex plate is on backwards. lol
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Yeah, I think you are right about the flex plate; and I agree about the re-ring and bearing job, though it does have newer pistons. Anyways, the pics were in response to how I knew / recognized shoddy work. I'm glad some have actually looked at them. Now, to make a better plan of attack on this. It's going to a machine shop, as I don't have the equipment to properly do what I want done, I'll get what I need to finish the engine. Then, I'll dive into the trans. Supposedly, that was "rebuilt" too. At least, that's an easy, in the garage job. The saving grace on this whole project, is that the body is nice, and I saw the pictures of it, before paint. It was stripped down, light filler in a couple areas, and repainted. The interior needs a complete redo - at least I'm ready for that one.
 
In
royslead said:
Yeah, I think you are right about the flex plate; and I agree about the re-ring and bearing job, though it does have newer pistons. Anyways, the pics were in response to how I knew / recognized shoddy work. I'm glad some have actually looked at them. Now, to make a better plan of attack on this. It's going to a machine shop, as I don't have the equipment to properly do what I want done, I'll get what I need to finish the engine. Then, I'll dive into the trans. Supposedly, that was "rebuilt" too. At least, that's an easy, in the garage job. The saving grace on this whole project, is that the body is nice, and I saw the pictures of it, before paint. It was stripped down, light filler in a couple areas, and repainted. The interior needs a complete redo - at least I'm ready for that one.
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Well, it looks like shoddy work to me but I kinda like the ingenuity the guy had when he used weight collars for shimming the seat. :poke::lol:
 
royslead said:
Yeah, I think you are right about the flex plate; and I agree about the re-ring and bearing job, though it does have newer pistons. Anyways, the pics were in response to how I knew / recognized shoddy work. I'm glad some have actually looked at them. Now, to make a better plan of attack on this. It's going to a machine shop, as I don't have the equipment to properly do what I want done, I'll get what I need to finish the engine. Then, I'll dive into the trans. Supposedly, that was "rebuilt" too. At least, that's an easy, in the garage job. The saving grace on this whole project, is that the body is nice, and I saw the pictures of it, before paint. It was stripped down, light filler in a couple areas, and repainted. The interior needs a complete redo - at least I'm ready for that one.
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The flex plate is installed correctly unless the picture makes it look different than it is. The chance that the crank is broke on the counterweight is about none. When a crack fractures it happens at the rod pins or at the mains in the radius. Not out there.
 
448Scamp said:
The flex plate is installed correctly unless the picture makes it look different than it is. The chance that the crank is broke on the counterweight is about none. When a crack fractures it happens at the rod pins or at the mains in the radius. Not out there.
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Thank you, that is helpful and appreciated.
 
I see a dry start....a little too much silicone, rusty exhaust manifolds 'what that has to do with it idk', over spray on the flex plate 'who cares' and a water pump housing that was painted after it was installed on the motor according to the unpainted spot on the back.
So someone didnt prime the engine , didn't blast the manifolds , is hasty with a rattle can....and reused a fuel pump and a water pump housing.

If you bore n hone, grind the crank and resize the rods and it gets new pistons.... that's technically rebuild.
The rest just made it run, though looks dirty n used.

Not how I would send a new motor out..but if I were selling a car and needed it running... I would disclose all of what I done and made use of to the buyer. I would say I did a bare minimum bottom end rebuild and re used all the dressings. Cleaning, having that **** cleaned is more money and time, neither of which may have been on their side...

When I do my own motors and refreshes... I reuse the fuel pump, water pump, I dont have the covers washed, I once them over with brake clean and a rag or brush then respray them if that...same of the oil pan...granted my stuff isnt covered in 50 yr old gunk...point being some things are not a hindrance or detriment to a running engine.

If you got a deal, you know why. Don't ***** about it not being the way you would do it... you can do it yourself next time, right?

We are all here to help you...we just dont rush to jump on your ***** wagon because we look at things objectively and need see evidence before sending you after the guy for this or that..just like a Detective doesn't just take your word for it and start arresting people. So change your attitude some.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I see a dry start....a little too much silicone, rusty exhaust manifolds 'what that has to do with it idk', over spray on the flex plate 'who cares' and a water pump housing that was painted after it was installed on the motor according to the unpainted spot on the back.
So someone didnt prime the engine , didn't blast the manifolds , is hasty with a rattle can....and reused a fuel pump and a water pump housing.

If you bore n hone, grind the crank and resize the rods and it gets new pistons.... that's technically rebuild.
The rest just made it run, though looks dirty n used.

Not how I would send a new motor out..but if I were selling a car and needed it running... I would disclose all of what I done and made use of to the buyer. I would say I did a bare minimum bottom end rebuild and re used all the dressings. Cleaning, having that **** cleaned is more money and time, neither of which may have been on their side...

When I do my own motors and refreshes... I reuse the fuel pump, water pump, I dont have the covers washed, I once them over with brake clean and a rag or brush then respray them if that...same of the oil pan...granted my stuff isnt covered in 50 yr old gunk...point being some things are not a hindrance or detriment to a running engine.

If you got a deal, you know why. Don't ***** about it not being the way you would do it... you can do it yourself next time, right?

We are all here to help you...we just dont rush to jump on your ***** wagon because we look at things objectively and need see evidence before sending you after the guy for this or that..just like a Detective doesn't just take your word for it and start arresting people. So change your attitude some.
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Well, looks like you missed the point of the pictures I posted for you, and the answer to the question you posted. You wondered how I knew the work was shoddy. I showed it and described it. The pic of the flex plate was showing the incorrect bolts with lock washers holding it to the crank. This put enough thrust into torque converter, I could not turn the engine with a breaker bar. Yes, too much silicone. How about silicone on both sides of the timing cover gasket (actually on all of them).- I dont use silicone on any gaskets, its not what it was designed for.Ok, some people don't know any better. There's more, but I don't give a damn about overspray, rusty manifolds, cosmetic bs; and yes, i reuse fuel pumps, too. I don't reuse water pumps (at least not in customer vehicles). You are right, it is not built or done the way i do things; but then, ive never had a comeback on an engine or trans i built, either. My point in this thread was mainly to inquire about the "crack" line in the crank. I've never seen it, nor has the machinist that I took it to (and he's been in the business a long time as well). The quick and dirty rebuild was just that, and yes I know how to rectify it. I wasn't asking anyone to jump on the "***** wagon" nor was I ever going to contact the seller regarding what I found, because he was not the one that did the work. Perhaps, you assumed that was what I leading toward? As for MY attitude - I don't appreciate being talked down to, I'm no punk kid, have paid my dues and earned respect in my field. I can appreciate a jab and goofin', and give it as well; but usually, I get to know a bit about a person before hand. Chances are, you, RRR, myself, and whole lot of others on this forum are a lot alike, and close in age; so let's just move forward.
 
fishmens67 said:
The best thing you could do is calm down and form a plan.
It's your car now, make it right for you.
There isn't a man or shop on the planet that can do it like ME.
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And some good help/ advice from some Friends! This post has nothing to do with me, but " THANKS Y'ALL"
 
I think everyone who has been in the car hobby for decades, regardless of marque, has run into substandard work. It's part of the game. That having been said, I can sympathize with the OP, sometimes you just can't say "what were they thinking?" enough times. The good news is that everything that has been in the OP's photos is fixable. So you fix it and move on.

:thumbsup:
 
Why would someone machine that part of the throw instead of drilling a balance hole? DIY 440 stroker crank? That crank looked cast with its sharp edges and uniform marks. If it ends in a 000 or a 922 its a cast 383/400. Iron casting can have internal flaws/voids
 
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