torque convertor

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famous bob

mopar misfit
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I have a broken tooth on my convertor, and have talked to Lenny and hughs about it. Lenny wants to build a new one for me , but said what I had sounded about right.
Hughs said $300 plus shipping both ways , to replace the ring gear. A new one like I have is around $580ish.
What would I do w/ the old one that only has 2 runs and about 6-700ish street miles on it ?-
It does seem about right, but I have severe traction problem. Am probly going to change front springs too.
What I`m wondering is if I went w/ a lower stall speed, to just below the cams power band, would it help traction by not being in the power band when I nail it-------so to speak ??
Not talking about a bunch below-------all opinions welcome---------
Trail beast ??
 
I would fix my traction problem !! Now whether you get a new conv or not is up to you. Last time I had a car running I had a 5500 8 inch with a brake. I couldn't hook up. Come to find out my rear axle was not straight . so I straighten it up . I gave my pinion angle another degree. That was the ticket. And i went faster. And hooked up.
 
I take it you mean a tooth on the starter ring gear? I have successfully welded a 'false tooth' onto ring gears in the past. I built it up with the mig welder and reshaped it with a narrow grinding disc and a file. Twice I've done this in situ (on diesel cars so lots of torque required to turn them over) and it hasn't failed yet. Just throwing another option out there :thumbsup:
Neil.
 
Just take one tooth out of the starter gear and it will match up with the ring gear every time it comes around?? OR, weld it up....a good weld will last a very long time!!
 
My impression is Lenny thinks the work involved is too close money wise to a new one - you "might as well" replace it if you're spending 1/2 or more to fix it. Hughes doesn't care they just want your money.
Personally I use intended use for the first driver of stall speed. They are always below the peak torque because these are street cars, then race cars. IMO, the convertor is probably not the best tool to tune with, unless everything else has been done already. If you can get it to work optimally, the convertor may change a little anyway (it will feel the load more).
I'd probably give the welded tooth a try. Teeth get worn from the process of meshing when it first engages, not usually from the torque of spinning. So something there will help that meshing process.
 
I take it you mean a tooth on the starter ring gear? I have successfully welded a 'false tooth' onto ring gears in the past. I built it up with the mig welder and reshaped it with a narrow grinding disc and a file. Twice I've done this in situ (on diesel cars so lots of torque required to turn them over) and it hasn't failed yet. Just throwing another option out there :thumbsup:
Neil.
Automotive Dentist, gotta love the resourcefulness
 
Just take one tooth out of the starter gear and it will match up with the ring gear every time it comes around?? OR, weld it up....a good weld will last a very long time!!
LOL got a good one out of that !!
 
Automotive Dentist, gotta love the resourcefulness

Jokes aside, did u guys do it in the car/ Sounds like that would be a ***** !

I let the car set all winter, when I started it, the starter "I think'' , STUCK FOR A SECOND AND RELEASED HARD, KNOCKING THE TOOTH OFF. My brakes , which never gave me a problem since converting to 4 wheel discs, didn`t stop right for a couple of drives too. The car set from nov. to feb. getting an intake change and port matching on both heads and intake, (while fighting of some sickness), had a pretty serious port mis alighnment, but that's another story.
Going to put softer coil springs on the front, had virtually no front end rise on the two runs I made last November.
I have 350# springs on the front, going to go to 250# springs, just wondering how they`ll hold the car up !
 
It would difficult to do while still on the car because you have to be able to get different types of files (round, 1/2 round, etc) and file 90 degrees to the gear teeth to get the new tooth form (shape) as close to the other teeth as possible. You basically have to file/shape it so it's very close to an original tooth, that would be hard to do in the car. Plus you also need to grind off the old tooth to get a good solid weld into the ring. You can also use a die grinder to (rough) shape the tooth then use files to finish the job. Be sure to center the tooth between the adjacent teeth as you shape it. You have nothing to lose because you would have to remove it to replace it anyway????????
 
yes i've done it in situ, and you're right it's a *****. i didn't grind down the old tooth, i used it to build on like when you have a cap put on a tooth in your mouth. :thumbsup:
 
yes i've done it in situ, and you're right it's a *****. i didn't grind down the old tooth, i used it to build on like when you have a cap put on a tooth in your mouth. :thumbsup:

Considering how hard weld filler metal is, filing a new tooth on a ring gear with flywheel in place sounds like an absolute nightmare.
 
Considering how hard weld filler metal is, filing a new tooth on a ring gear with flywheel in place sounds like an absolute nightmare.

Yeah, I thot I asked a stupid question after thinking about it . I wouldn't attempt it in the car, but will try it after getting it out, well I`ll ask my welder pro to do it.

What kind of welder and what material did you guys use for the build up ????
 
On the Ring Gear, Yes once again like to Repair things.

I agree with all the guys above that welding in the broken tooth is a great fix, have done this numerous times with great success. Have also welded in stripped/missing teeth on manual crank window regulators that fixed them too.

The real trick other than being a good welder and having the welder heat and wire speed set right, is to make a template of the good teeth so that you can use it as a guide to grind the welded teeth back to original size.

Can easily make the ring gear tooth template with a thin piece of cardboard like a cereal box, tape it onto a quarter section of the good ring gear and then tap on it with a large face body hammer to get your template impression.

Here are 2 photos of a successfully welded ring gear on the mopar 360/727 converter. It actually had teeth chewed out in 2 different areas, see if you can tell where the repairs were done.

Now the converter is back in the vehicle and working great as expected.

76 360 727.jpg


360 76 727.jpg


Good Luck on building your A Body, nothing wrong with saving some money too so you can buy other much needed mopar parts . . .
 
On the Ring Gear, Yes once again like to Repair things.

I agree with all the guys above that welding in the broken tooth is a great fix, have done this numerous times with great success. Have also welded in stripped/missing teeth on manual crank window regulators that fixed them too.

The real trick other than being a good welder and having the welder heat and wire speed set right, is to make a template of the good teeth so that you can use it as a guide to grind the welded teeth back to original size.

Can easily make the ring gear tooth template with a thin piece of cardboard like a cereal box, tape it onto a quarter section of the good ring gear and then tap on it with a large face body hammer to get your template impression.

Here are 2 photos of a successfully welded ring gear on the mopar 360/727 converter. It actually had teeth chewed out in 2 different areas, see if you can tell where the repairs were done.

Now the converter is back in the vehicle and working great as expected.

View attachment 1715314070

View attachment 1715314071

Good Luck on building your A Body, nothing wrong with saving some money too so you can buy other much needed mopar parts . . .

My A body is already built.
I take it u used a mig welder , " wire speed" ?
Convertor looks great------
 
Just a second thought after the torque converter ring gear repair is completed. Replace the old original mopar . . DDD Dodge . . starter with the New High Torque Mini starter.

It will engage stronger, spin the engine over much faster, and they start the mopar power plants like they have fuel injection. Such a great upgrade, and they take less electricity away from your ignition system so that even fires better too.
 
Just a second thought after the torque converter ring gear repair is completed. Replace the old original mopar . . DDD Dodge . . starter with the New High Torque Mini starter.

It will engage stronger, spin the engine over much faster, and they start the mopar power plants like they have fuel injection. Such a great upgrade, and they take less electricity away from your ignition system so that even fires better too.

Already got one , I think the added strength is what knocked the tooth off to start with when it hung for a second after sitting all winter.
Already have fuel inj. too----------
Wass it a mig welder ? thanks , bob
 
OK Famous Bob
Where there is a will there is a way, just depends on how crafty you want to be.

The welding of the ring gear should be left to a professional welder, as he will know the proper heat and wire to use for the repair. You don't want to get in there and get it all gobbed up with sloppy welding.

Just another avenue if you are going to try and weld the ring gear in the car. Get the car up on a good twin post hoist so you can stand under it. Support the transmission with a good professional quality High Transmission Stand with the screw on it for up and down.

So here is the "Cheat" once things are supported along with supporting your engine. Back out all the bell housing bolts 1/2 inch, take the 2 bolts out of the tail shaft cross member mount, and disconnect your shift and kick down linkages.

This should give you a tad more clearance to get in there and work. If it is not enough room swap out some longer drift bolts for the bell housing bolts and slide the the trans back from the engine even farther. Being careful the bigger gap you open up can cause the converter to come out the front of the trans.

If you and your welder friend don't feel you have enough room now, then you are in a good position just to pull the transmission back and pull the converter out and fix it on the bench.

Good Luck, always good to have someone with experience around if you have not done any of this before.
 
Might want to double check your ignition timing too. Too much Advance is hard on starter/ring gears when attempting to get the engine cranked up. Even more so on the higher compression engines.
 
Yes mig welder for me. With it out on the bench it'll be an easy job.
Neil.
Ps reading through this thread it seems several people have welded false teeth onto ring gears, but nobody wanted to own up to being a bodger until I did :thumbsup:
 
I have a broken tooth on my convertor, and have talked to Lenny and hughs about it. Lenny wants to build a new one for me , but said what I had sounded about right.
Hughs said $300 plus shipping both ways , to replace the ring gear. A new one like I have is around $580ish.
What would I do w/ the old one that only has 2 runs and about 6-700ish street miles on it ?-
It does seem about right, but I have severe traction problem. Am probly going to change front springs too.
What I`m wondering is if I went w/ a lower stall speed, to just below the cams power band, would it help traction by not being in the power band when I nail it-------so to speak ??
Not talking about a bunch below-------all opinions welcome---------
Trail beast ??

When asking someone specific a question you need to type the @ sign before their name like this @TrailBeast or they never know you asked unless they just happen to run across it like I did this one.:D
For 300 or a new converter if it didn't cause starting issue's I probably wouldn't sweat it.
One thing though, sometimes the tooth that is missing is right where the starter normally begins to engage the ring gear.
This is because there are places in the engine rotation where the flywheel stops at the same points due to cylinder compression.
Lets say for the sake of argument that the engine normally stops in 4 places around the flywheel.
Those 4 places are where most of the wear and load is, and those teeth take most of the pounding when the starter engages.
This is exactly why you sometimes hear someone in a parking lot hitting the starter over and over trying to get it to engage.
If this happens because of the missing tooth you are pretty much out of options and have to replace or repair it.
 
OK Famous Bob
Where there is a will there is a way, just depends on how crafty you want to be.

The welding of the ring gear should be left to a professional welder, as he will know the proper heat and wire to use for the repair. You don't want to get in there and get it all gobbed up with sloppy welding.

Just another avenue if you are going to try and weld the ring gear in the car. Get the car up on a good twin post hoist so you can stand under it. Support the transmission with a good professional quality High Transmission Stand with the screw on it for up and down.

So here is the "Cheat" once things are supported along with supporting your engine. Back out all the bell housing bolts 1/2 inch, take the 2 bolts out of the tail shaft cross member mount, and disconnect your shift and kick down linkages.

This should give you a tad more clearance to get in there and work. If it is not enough room swap out some longer drift bolts for the bell housing bolts and slide the the trans back from the engine even farther. Being careful the bigger gap you open up can cause the converter to come out the front of the trans.

If you and your welder friend don't feel you have enough room now, then you are in a good position just to pull the transmission back and pull the converter out and fix it on the bench.

Good Luck, always good to have someone with experience around if you have not done any of this before.

Dam guy, you think I`ve never pulled a trans. / This is the fifth hot rod I`ve built, counting the two hemi`s I had. This was a basket case w/ no baskets------
Don't intend to do it in the car, or weld it myself. Just wanted to know what kind of welder was used !
 
When asking someone specific a question you need to type the @ sign before their name like this @TrailBeast or they never know you asked unless they just happen to run across it like I did this one.:D
For 300 or a new converter if it didn't cause starting issue's I probably wouldn't sweat it.
One thing though, sometimes the tooth that is missing is right where the starter normally begins to engage the ring gear.
This is because there are places in the engine rotation where the flywheel stops at the same points due to cylinder compression.
Lets say for the sake of argument that the engine normally stops in 4 places around the flywheel.
Those 4 places are where most of the wear and load is, and those teeth take most of the pounding when the starter engages.
This is exactly why you sometimes hear someone in a parking lot hitting the starter over and over trying to get it to engage.
If this happens because of the missing tooth you are pretty much out of options and have to replace or repair it.
@TrailBeast
Yeah, I`m carrying an 18" , 1/2" flex head ratchet and an 1 1/4' socket till I get my stuff together to pull it.
Laying under a car aint my favortite thing to do anymore !
 
I'd just use a Mig, and then shape the tooth. I'd rather do it on a bench, but you could probably do it in the car too depending on the car and your setup.
 
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