jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
Hey all, I've been trying to remove the drivers side torsion bar for an hour, passengers side came out fine, can I cut the bar with a sawzall?
Thanks Jeff
Thanks Jeff
torsion bar is a *****
- Thread starter jeffnmo
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72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
No don't do that if it's under load.
Back out the pivot bolt... Unbolt the control arm and the strut rod... Remove the wire spring clip behind rear of torsion bar.
Pry the control arm back with long pry bar between k-member and control arm. That will push the torsion bar out of the crossmember.
Then whack the control arm off the front of T bar while it is dangling .
Hope this helps.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS UNLOADED AS FAR AS TORQUE.... AND IN THE AIR!
Pry the control arm back with long pry bar between k-member and control arm. That will push the torsion bar out of the crossmember.
Then whack the control arm off the front of T bar while it is dangling .
Hope this helps.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS UNLOADED AS FAR AS TORQUE.... AND IN THE AIR!
I asked that same question awhile back, and the consensus was a saws all wouldn't do it.
I used my cordless grinder, like this one, and it cut through the bar, like butter, in ten seconds.
It got cut, as the adjuster was frozen, rusted, locked up, solid.
Had to be cut in two, as the bar wasn't going to be saved for reuse anyway.
And there was no problem cutting it in two, with tension on the bar, as some may lead you to believe.
This is the real world, and you gotta do, what you gotta do, in getting a rusted bar out.
If there ever was a "bang" i never heard it above the sound what one of those grinders makes.
Just my .02 cents on the subject.
I already went through it.
I used my cordless grinder, like this one, and it cut through the bar, like butter, in ten seconds.
It got cut, as the adjuster was frozen, rusted, locked up, solid.
Had to be cut in two, as the bar wasn't going to be saved for reuse anyway.
And there was no problem cutting it in two, with tension on the bar, as some may lead you to believe.
This is the real world, and you gotta do, what you gotta do, in getting a rusted bar out.
If there ever was a "bang" i never heard it above the sound what one of those grinders makes.
Just my .02 cents on the subject.
I already went through it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
^^THE ABOVE^^ OP what are you using to do this? I have "decided" that T bar pullers are not worth the money, and mine won't fit with the headers in the way. I just pull the big LCA pivot nut and pry up in there with a big bar
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
Thanks guys, There is no load on the bar, I made my own removal tool and it should slide out, the passengers side did. I may try what mbaird said but I really don't want to loosen up what I don't need to, or get out the side grinder like hemi71x said.
Jeff
Jeff
If the bar is that stuck, there’s no way that you don’t also need to replace all the bushings. Which means, it all has to come out anyway so you might as well use the LCA method.
d1970
TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY
when I changed my worn out T bars, I raised the front end, backed off the adjusters and used a grinder to cut them in half as hemi71x said. No problems at all, they side out like nothing.
A408Cuda
Well-Known Member
Here's what I did with a stuck one, backed off the tensioner all the way, on jack stands of course, then put a 24" pipe wrench on the bar worked back and forth a bit and was able to beat it out with a mallet hitting the side of the pipe wrench.
A408Cuda
Well-Known Member
One other thing to keep in mind is they maybe hard to get out because something isn't straight. if you loosen the big nut on the lower control arm and the strut bars, it may allow some movement relieve some possible side load and allow the bar to come out easier.
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
Its already out and the new ones in, all the bushings were done awhile back but I couldn't afford the bigger bars at the time. Ride hight is set and it drives nice, getting an alignment Monday. Thanks for all the help from everyone.
Jeff
Jeff
Did the new ones slide back into the control arms and clock properly with the cross member? If ao you should go buy a lottery ticket... Lol
If your alignment was already good you should just have set ride hieght back to where it was. No geometry should have changed.
If your alignment was already good you should just have set ride hieght back to where it was. No geometry should have changed.
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
mbaird, they both slid back and are clocked properly, I forgot to grease the drivers side bar when I did the bushings and it rusted just enough to cause me fits, if the Dart was driven every day maybe it wouldn't have been so bad, its a car, weirder things have happened. About the alignment, it drove real good, I took my hands off the wheel and it stayed strait, I just thought an alignment would be a good idea, if there is no need that would be great, Money is very tight around here.
Thanks again guys Jeff
Thanks again guys Jeff
Well, I’ll throw this out there. If you just removed and replaced the torsion bars, AND you put the ride height back in the same place, your alignment shouldn’t have changed. Now granted, there’s a bunch of stuff that could have changed. And the more stuff you moved the more likely something did.
Some places will do an alignment check for free, so you might be able to do that. If you need your alignment changed you’re out of luck, they’ll charge you. But you might be able to find a place to check it free to let you know first.
adamm
Well-Known Member
I did this as well, used some cloth between the pipe wrench and torsion bar to avoid beating up the surface. Worked really well for me as I had the same issue with removal on the drivers side.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
What bars did you put in?
I just installed the PST 1.03 bars on mine last week, and I just took my first spirited drive down a windy road. I love it, less body roll, feels solid but not harsh in any way.
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
I put in the pst 1.03 bars and love em' all the talk about them being to harsh is a load of crap, are A-Bodies already handle okay but now all I can say is holy crap and thats with the stock sway bar, I may be going bigger with that too.
Jeff
Jeff
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