Torsion bar removal question...

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jtolbert

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So, I've seen a few other threads on here that advocate using a tool to help remove the torsion bar...I saw an article on Mopar Muscle's site (http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...move_k_member_and_front_suspension/index.html) that advises the reader to lever the lower control arm rearward to remove the torsion bar.

I've got everything else disconnected but the torsion bars. The retaining clips have been removed from the crossmember end. The pivot pin is a bit loose...Loose enough that the pivot pin spins when you try to loosen the pivot pin bolt now. So, I started levering the control arm rearward and the torsion bar has moved back some...But how do you get it out the rest of the way? My car has a swaybar and I think I'll probably need to disconnect the swaybar from the LCA for rearward travel to continue.

Am I on the right track here? How does the torsion bar come off the pivot pin? Any other tips? Thanks!
 
You use a torsion bar removal tool. That's what they're made for.
 
So, I've seen a few other threads on here that advocate using a tool to help remove the torsion bar...I saw an article on Mopar Muscle's site (http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...move_k_member_and_front_suspension/index.html) that advises the reader to lever the lower control arm rearward to remove the torsion bar.

I've got everything else disconnected but the torsion bars. The retaining clips have been removed from the crossmember end. The pivot pin is a bit loose...Loose enough that the pivot pin spins when you try to loosen the pivot pin bolt now. So, I started levering the control arm rearward and the torsion bar has moved back some...But how do you get it out the rest of the way? My car has a swaybar and I think I'll probably need to disconnect the swaybar from the LCA for rearward travel to continue.

Am I on the right track here? How does the torsion bar come off the pivot pin? Any other tips? Thanks!


i usually get a block of wood and a 3 pound hammer and knock the lower arm back some. then i'll hit it forward off the bar itself. after that the bar should pull right out.
 
The sway bar end link and the strut rod has to be unbolted along with the lower arm pivot pin. Then knock the lower arm rearward until the torsion bar drops out of the rear hex socket. Then knocking the lower arm forward again should sepreate it from that hex socket.
 
They can be removed without disconnecting the lower control arm as long as the wheel is off the ground, the bump stop is removed, and the bolt adjusting ride height is backed completely out.

Here are some pics of a quick and dirty tool I made in less than 30 minutes to get mine out. It's 4 inches wide and made out of some scraps of walnut I had lying around. Pine might work if that's all you have but hard wood is best. I clamped both pieces in the vise and ran a drill bit down the center to create the grooves. If you've got a router or table saw handy that would be easier. The angled corner was helpful in clearing the floor boards.

After I made this, I read some posts about using the handle bar clamp from a BMX style bicycle. That would be even better I think.
 

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Torsion bars are disconnected. Pushing the control arms back did the trick...After I disconnected the swaybar link. Put it back together after the t-bar was out before dropping the upper control arm to keep the LCA/spindle/UCA assembly from flopping around too much.

Thanks again, guys.
 
Does anyone know what size socket I need for the k-member bolts? 1" seems to be too small and 1-1/8" is too big.
 
Yeah I have had great success with pushing the control arm back. I guess the tool is used to change out just the torsion bars or general maintenance that would require the torsion bar removal.
 
I also do the "pry LCA back a bit, hit forward w/ rubber mallet" a few times. Once you loosen the dried grease, it should wiggle out easy. You shouldn't have needed to disconnect the sway bar or drag struts.

I am concerned that you say the LCA bolt spun when you turn the nut. It should not. It is pressed tightly in the bushing inner shell w/ rubber between it and the outer shell (pressed in LCA). I suspect your rubber bushing is shot. If so, you must remove the LCA and take it to a shop to press in a new bushing (~$15 for bushing, labor ???). The only way this wouldn't be true is if someone installed the special PST polyurethane bushings which slide instead of twist (maybe bad idea?, since discontinued I think). The hard part is removing the lower ball joint stud. Maybe unbolt the ball joint and bring it in attached to the LCA.

If you remove the LCA, one usually replaces the strut bushings. If so, use the later "improved design" with 2-part rubber disks.
 
I'm tearing apart and rebuilding the whole front suspension/steering/etc., so everything will get fixed. :) Thanks for the heads-up, though.
 
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