Torsion bar won't come out.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering and Chassis' started by hula, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. hula

    hula Well-Known Member

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    Adjuster is totally loose, shock out, CA just hanging and bump stop out, C clip out, heated the collar and can't beat it loose. I'm replacing them anyway so maybe cut it with a cut off wheel and remove CA to get it out hopefully?
    IMG_5016.JPG IMG_5017.JPG
     
  2. krazykuda

    krazykuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Have you tried pounding it rearward with a hand sledge on the lower control arm, then if it comes loose in the rear cross member, then try banging the lower control arm forward to release the bar....

    If you don't care about the bar, you can also try clamping some vise grips on it and banging on them to get it out... Heat if necessary...
     
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    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      pry LCA back from behind the K member. Also if the frame is drooping from jackstand placement, try a jack up front to take all warp out of unibody.
       
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      • snate66

        snate66 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        how is the car supported? jack stands on the frame by the rear t bar socket? maybe binding. put a jack under the k member and lift slightly to release some tension. helped me.
         
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        • snate66

          snate66 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          ha! beat me to it!
           
        • pishta

          pishta I know I'm right....

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          works, dont it! :D
           
        • hula

          hula Well-Known Member

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          Had stands under front bolts of k member. I beat the crap out of it with some vise grips on it and heated the collar around it also. After I cut it it felt loose in the CA and when I pulled the CA off it fell out so maybe it was bound or everything cooled and contracted and fell out. LMAO Stands ok there reinstalling?
          IMG_5021.JPG
           
        • 68383GTS

          68383GTS Well-Known Member

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          You need a torsion bar clamp tool so you can really give it a smack.
           
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          • hula

            hula Well-Known Member

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            Its out.
            IMG_5022.JPG
             
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            • snate66

              snate66 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              made up this little beauty with some scraps around the shop and cheap ubolts.

              IMG_0621[1].JPG
               
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              • adriver

                adriver Blazing Apostle

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                Your problem is obvious now.
                You need a bigger hammer.


                Seriously, I have one of brass that takes two hands.
                Of mine anyway.
                That and KK's method never has failed me.
                Wack rearward, wack forward.
                (That all sounds dirty.)
                 
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                • snate66

                  snate66 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Might still bind going back in. The flex of the car is just enough to sometimes cause a problem. I keep the jack stands close to the rear socket so you only need to temporarily take the flex out with a single lift point under the K member. (Not lifted off the jackstands mind you)
                   
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                  • MRGTX

                    MRGTX Well-Known Member

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                    Snate is right on. A bar coming out doesn't guarantee a smooth ride on the way back in.

                    I had some moderate difficulty in getting the old bars out but one of my new ones is bound up going back in, stuck 1/2 way.

                    I've been away from the garage for a few days and I've been contemplating ways to get out of this jam...for whatever reason, lifting under the k-member to reduce flex didn't occur to me until this thread. So...that will possibly do the trick. :cool:

                    My only worry now is if the hammering on the bar (progressing from a gloved hand to a rubber mallet to a sledge hammer through a piece of hard wood and finally a few good whacks with the hammer directly) may have deformed the hex-end of the bar at all. It certainly wouldn't take much deformation to cause a problem.
                     
                  • mbaird

                    mbaird mbaird FABO Gold Member

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                    It is so easy to just unbolt the lower control arm spindle and pry whole assembly back.
                     
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                    • DARTLARRY

                      DARTLARRY Well-Known Member

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                      push the bar through the rear mounting sleeve, and just get it to start on the LCA sleeve, place a C clamp across the LCA and the torsion bar adjuster, now when you tighten the clamp you rotate the bar. Now you can watch the rear bar sleeve, and tighten the clamp to line the bar up. They are usually off by a few degrees, using the clamp on the adjuster to pull it down, once they are lined up a few hits with with a mallet will set the bars into the sleeve.
                       
                      Last edited: Apr 17, 2018
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                      • hula

                        hula Well-Known Member

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                        Thanks! I got the second one out knocking the LCA towards the back after loosening it. Must be a bind so I know putting the new ones in.
                         
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                        • MRGTX

                          MRGTX Well-Known Member

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                          Thanks again for these suggestions, guys.
                          I loosened up the LCA and when I move it with the pry bar, I can see that it slides in and out of the socket. Rather, the bar stays put while the control arm moves.

                          So it turns out that the bar is only stuck in the rear mounting sleeve. Assuming that Swayaway made the bar to spec, I just don't even know how I screwed that up.

                          Using the Mancini torsion bar tool, I've been able to give it some serious whacks in the rearward direction to get it out... and it ain't moving.

                          What gives?
                          I'm guessing that my hammering in attempts to get it in have distorted the hex making it fit tightly in place...but still.

                          What else should I try?
                          Would it be worth trying to heat the sleeve and cool the bar?

                          I'm about to throw in the towel and pull out the check book to have a professional (with a lift) bail my ass out. This really isn't in the budget and I loathe the feeling of defeat, especially when I'm so damn close to being ready to align and drive!! :(

                          Any thoughts are welcome.
                          Any pointing/laughing would be well deserved.
                           
                        • mbaird

                          mbaird mbaird FABO Gold Member

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                          You removed the little spring clips behind the bars ? Right ?
                           
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                          • MRGTX

                            MRGTX Well-Known Member

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                            Thanks...but yes. I hadn't gotten the new Sway-a-Way bar in far enough to install the clip. :)
                             
                          • mbaird

                            mbaird mbaird FABO Gold Member

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                            I'm sorry I thought you were still trying to get the bars out.
                            So you cant get the new ones in? Have you tried test fitting the hex by insert it backwards into the cross member too make sure it is sized correctly ?
                             
                          • dartfreak75

                            dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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                            I'm having the same problem my lca reassembly is completely out of the kframe and the tbar is hanging out the back of the cross member and it still won't come out of the lca I made a tool to clamp to the bar and iv beat and beat it will not come out! Any more ideas?
                             
                          • hula

                            hula Well-Known Member

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                            Heat the LCA collar around the torsion bar with a torch or yellow maps gas hand torch from Home Depot. Sounds like yours is stuck in the LCA from corrosion or rust if the LCA is free from the K member.
                             
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                            • MRGTX

                              MRGTX Well-Known Member

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                              I know guys recommend applying heat but I'd only do that as a last resort. Heating and cooling parts can eff-up the relatively tight tolerances and the socket could shrink and clamp down even harder on the hex.

                              So the only way I was able to get mine out was to cut it a couple inches away from the cross member and whack it directly again and again with a sledge hammer.

                              Obviously if you're hoping to save the torsion bar...you may want to look into other options. They're never quite the same after you cut them. :D
                               
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                              • dartfreak75

                                dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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                                Unfortunately I had to cut it out!
                                 
                              • dartfreak75

                                dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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                                This

                                20180711_080710.jpg
                                 
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