Pinion angle, the correct springs and shocks work as a system. Getting it all balanced and complimenting each other can be a challenge.
After 40 years of trying all sorts of combinations to get a nice ride height, a compliant ride and lots of traction, I found that two driver's side, 3400lbs Super Stock springs work the best for my application.
My cars weigh in at 3750lbs, and one has nearly 700hp & the other just over 800 hp. I also run Nitto Drag Radials, because normal street tires like Radial T/A's just go up in smoke and feel like I'm driving on a snow covered roads.
I do run a pair of Lakewood slapper bars that I had to modify by cutting and welding the mounts to properly fit my Mopars. I upgrade the attaching hardware, as the hardware that comes with it is too weak and bends. I also cut the rubber snubber to about half the original height, and position it nearly touching the bottom of the front spring eye.
I have this set-up on both my A-Body and E-Body, and I've never had better ride quality or traction. One is an automatic the other a stick. I rarely see traction bars properly adjusted like this. Back in the day, the snubber was often positioned so far away from the spring that the snubber never hit the bottom of the spring, which is the whole point.
I can highly recommend the single or double adjustable QA1 shocks. I've tried Bilstein's, Koni's and AFCO double adjustable shocks. On the stick car, I had to go to the AFCO's Big Dog valving to be able to control and slow the body separation on launch. The car plants the tire so hard that it takes a lot of rebound valving to stop the tire from leaving the pavement on the hit.