Trans fluid. 727

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A Body 440 WHY NOT

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I just picked this up to use in a fresh 727 behind a 440. Dex/merc
Is this a good trans fluid to use ? I bought the trans and the PO did not know details on the internals
Yeah. Or. No.
Thanks

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That fluid is just about as good as any, I run type F in my race transmissions, it's a little thinner in viscosity than Dexron.
 
Also. the trans was run some previously, then drained . Torque converter changed . During the initial start I will be breaking in a cam. ( don’t want to shut off )
How much trans fluid would you put in it ? thanks
 
If it is completely empty including the converter, I would put 5 in it. When it fires up add 3 more. I start with trans in neutral. It will pick up the fluid faster. This the way I’ve done it for years.
 
Fresh 727. What does that mean ? Is it all original Mopar parts inside or have the seals, clutches etc. been changed to another brand ? If so you need to know from the builder of the trans what is the correct fluid. Not people without the specifics of what you have. There are all kinds of opinions on fluids based on all kinds of different parts used in the rebuilds as opposed to what the factory recommends on a factory built trans.
If it was a new manufactured Mopar 727 with no changes internally, They would recommend ATF +4 today. Fluids are constantly upgraded over the years as they discover new synthetics with different properties that affect things like slippage, shudder, wear etc...
Transmission fluid

(by Bill Watson)

Automatic transmission fluid is added, through a funnel, to the dipstick tube on the passenger side of the vehicle. Many car parts stores sell a funnel with an attached hose, which fits perfectly into the tube. [For emergencies you may want to carry a disposable funnel.]

The transmission should be at its normal temperature before checking, and the car should be on truly level ground. Apply the parking brake firmly with the engine at idle, then shift into each gear, momentarily ending in Neutral - not Park.

The fluid level should be at the full mark on the transmission dipstick, or slightly below it - definitely not above Full. If it is below the "add one pint" mark, add fluid and check the level again as per above to ensure the level is between "ADD" and "FULL".

For smoother shifting and less wear in winter, use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 (there are numerous "universal" fluids, and one which conforms to Dexron III and/or ATF+3/+4 should work).
 
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If it is completely empty including the converter, I would put 5 in it. When it fires up add 3 more. I start with trans in neutral. It will pick up the fluid faster. This the way I’ve done it for years.

That is exactly what I was looking for!!!
Thanks
 
That is exactly what I was looking for!!!
Thanks
While the engine is fast idling to break in the cam. You can Ck trans fluid and top it off. I also very the rpm while breaking the the cam in. You want to make sure the lifters are spinning in their hole. I set to 2500 rpm and blip the throttle Avery few minutes.
 
The transmission should be at its normal temperature before checking,
NOOOO!!!! Good way to burn it up! Once the pump sucks up all available fluid, it will suck air and try to lubricate the trans to no avail. It will take about 60 seconds for bushings to start to burn up at that increased rpm. If you don't know for sure that your trans is to the FULL mark---SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY! The motor doesn't have to be running to check fluid level. As long as it was running within the past few minutes; you're good.
 
NOOOO!!!! Good way to burn it up! Once the pump sucks up all available fluid, it will suck air and try to lubricate the trans to no avail. It will take about 60 seconds for bushings to start to burn up at that increased rpm. If you don't know for sure that your trans is to the FULL mark---SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY! The motor doesn't have to be running to check fluid level. As long as it was running within the past few minutes; you're good.

So, with a empty trans and fresh engine , how would you recommend to proceed ? put 8 its in trans ? once the engine starts its important to break in the cam. should not shut it down for 15 min or so.
 
Put a trans funnel down into the converter and fill the funnel with fluid. It will run in slowly out the bottom of the funnel and just keep adding it until it fills up. Put the converter into the trans and have a pan ready to catch the extra fluid. After the trans is installed put four down into the tube. Start in NEUTRAL. The only way you can hurt a trans by overfilling it is if you try to drive it; so don't even worry about that. One time I finished up a 727 and added four quarts down the tube, forgot and stared it in PARK, added four more and had it running out the vent. Quick shoved it into neutral and kept filling it. Drove it immediately and no problems. So don't worry about overfilling it if you're not going to move the lever out of Neutral until tomorrow. You can remove the neutral safety switch to get the fluid level down close to the proper level.
 
Put a trans funnel down into the converter and fill the funnel with fluid. It will run in slowly out the bottom of the funnel and just keep adding it until it fills up. Put the converter into the trans and have a pan ready to catch the extra fluid. After the trans is installed put four down into the tube. Start in NEUTRAL. The only way you can hurt a trans by overfilling it is if you try to drive it; so don't even worry about that. One time I finished up a 727 and added four quarts down the tube, forgot and stared it in PARK, added four more and had it running out the vent. Quick shoved it into neutral and kept filling it. Drove it immediately and no problems. So don't worry about overfilling it if you're not going to move the lever out of Neutral until tomorrow. You can remove the neutral safety switch to get the fluid level down close to the proper level.

thanks for the info.
The converter and trans are installed already. I’ll put ? Qts in it and fire it up in N.
4 , 5 , 6 ?
 
I did say four but five is okay. The problem starts after it's running and not enough fluid is added and the pump charges the converter then starves for more fluid. I've seen transs burn up with ten in them.
 
I did say four but five is okay. The problem starts after it's running and not enough fluid is added and the pump charges the converter then starves for more fluid. I've seen transs burn up with ten in them.

I DONT GET WHERE U SAID TO FILL THE CONVERTOR , W/ A FUNNELL . If u fill the convertor before installing , half of it will pour out anyway while slipping it on the input shaft .------------------??
 
Hey, Bob, you could always just remove the motor from the car, turn it face down, install the converter onto the motor, then install the trans to the motor with the tail sticking straight up-------------------NO FLUID LOSS!
 
Hey, Bob, you could always just remove the motor from the car, turn it face down, install the converter onto the motor, then install the trans to the motor with the tail sticking straight up-------------------NO FLUID LOSS!

YEAH, THAT WOULD WORK FOR SURE ----LOL

What did I miss ?
 
ever notice how when the subject of what fluid to use in a 904/727 comes up there is ALWAYS a heated argument?

I spent too many hours trying to read up on the best and/or most appropriate fluid to use in my 727's. I read on BobIsTheOilGuy forums and all the mopar forums I'm a member on. I personally ended up using Valvoline MaxLife ATF. It's readily available, fairly cheap, and having done a few pan drops, filter changes, and re-fill's in my 727's, they're all happy with it so far. 1 of them has been rebuilt once, the other two have not.

I would welcome someone with some technical background tell me that Valvoline MaxLife ATF is wrong or will ruin a 904/727, but so far there is just no info out there that supports that.
 
A lot of transmissions that come in for rebuild have new fluid in them plus the converter is still in them; about 9 quarts...goes into my cars.
 
****, I put two gallons in all my fresh ones. lol
 
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