Trans pan has a pin hole in it.

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memike

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Yes it is a pin hole, It don't leak almost when it is cold, one cup in 20 hours.
when I seen it I parked it and it drips 3 times faster when the trans fluid is warmed up..
I have the pan off cleaned and pored gas in the pan to locate the hole and mark it, Can I sand this area down and J.B. weld it ??
I was going to just J.B. weld the out side and press it into the pin hole and see if it will make it to the inside..

Thank you and good morning :coffee2:
 
I would look on ebay for a different trans pan, should be cheap enough.

If you went through to toruble of removing the pan I would replace, not repair. I would had used brake clean and JB weld with the pan still on, for a quick fix.

It the hole was caused by rust, only a matter of time before another pin hole opens up.
 
I agree with dodgefreak if its a pin hole from rust another one will popup eventually. A member on here will have one. If you want a quick fix in the meantime I would think jb weld will be a temp fix
 
Not a rust problem, looks like it was slid on a floor and rolled over something sharp and very small, I will get me another pan, I just want to make sure the trans fluid will not eat the J.B.weld so I can winter rise it now that I put my new radiator in it yesterday :blob:
I am heading to the wanted forum now and I will post a picture of the pan here as soon as I go out side and bring the pan in that I let gas set in it over night.. This is an easy remove pan under my 1985 Ramcharger, It has the new 904 heavy clutch kit Creed just put in for me, we could see the pan skid but it did not leak till two days ago after 3 weeks of driving..

Our should I bother my friend and have him wire weld it up (tack it in) ?
I was happy to see the new trans is doing good and the screen/filter was clean.
 
Jb weld should be fine, as dodgefreak said, clean it with brake cleaner, jb weld the inside and the outside and it should hold the fluid.
 
Either have it welded of JB weld would be fine. Either way it has to be off the car and oil free.
 
If it isn't a rust problem and you already have it off and clean I myself wouldn't think twice about brazing or wire feed welding the small hole closed after fixing I would check it again to make sure no drips and call it a day but that's just me. Unless someone has one laying around for cheap then I would buy that 1.
 
Jb weld should be fine, as dodgefreak said, clean it with brake cleaner, jb weld the inside and the outside and it should hold the fluid.
Thank you :colors:, This is what I am going to do so I can test my radiator for leaks so I can winterize it today, Thank you :glasses7:

Either have it welded of JB weld would be fine. Either way it has to be off the car and oil free.
I have it out and oil free and I will scuff it inside and out with some 220 sand paper and NOT weld it.
If it isn't a rust problem and you already have it off and clean I myself wouldn't think twice about brazing or wire feed welding the small hole closed after fixing I would check it again to make sure no drips and call it a day but that's just me. Unless someone has one laying around for cheap then I would buy that 1.
I was concerned about the wire welding also :glasses7:, and new if I did it would need to be J.B welded any way to make sure of it nor leaking :D
 
If the pan was not so shallow I thought about this would be a good time to drill it out and add a drain plug there. J.B. weld it will be, thank you all.
 
Do you not have a welding torch?
You know, the oxy acetylene set?
If you or someone close has a set, just braze it on the inside of the pan and done deal.
I sometimes use a good flux and propane torch with silver solder on steel and it works really well.
Just sucks to do it temporary, and then do it all over again.






If the pan was not so shallow I thought about this would be a good time to drill it out and add a drain plug there. J.B. weld it will be, thank you all.
 
Do you not have a welding torch?
You know, the oxy acetylene set?
If you or someone close has a set, just braze it on the inside of the pan and done deal.
I sometimes use a good flux and propane torch with silver solder on steel and it works really well.
Just sucks to do it temporary, and then do it all over again.

I don't have a torch of any kind :coffee2: I did a real good job prepping and cleaning it with brake parts cleaner and then sanded the 2 sides with 220 grit paper then shot it down with brake / parts cleaner and did my patch, I have a few feelers out there for a good one, but for know I will put this one back on so I can winterize my RC now that I replaced the radiator :cheers:, It's an easy change and not a heavy job to do this again, 4 quarts on trans fluid this time and I will save the fluid for the next pan, I am going to change the filter, it has about 600 miles on a total rebuild :coffee2:
On my way out to get this dun :cheers: It's just 14 bolts and plenty of room under my RC. here I go , I called the dealer ship and they said $53 for a new one. I let the J.B weld set for 20 hours :colors:
 

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