moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Motor mounts look to be installed correctly on the back sides of the ears, moving them to the opposite side of the ears to correct the out of alignment will move it too far in the opposite direction. Now as far as the mount being the correct one for a 67 barracuda V8. I'm not sure about that. I have a set of these flat biscuit mounts for my sons 69 but they are in storage so i really cannot eyeball them to compare to whats installed on yours.
The way these cars were built back in the day was not very accurate. I installed a 74 spool mount K in my 67 notch, and dropped in a 318, and 4 speed for mocking things up. All my mounts are polyurethane so there is no give to them like rubber has. What i found was the trans was sitting about 1.5" off to the right, and not moveable at all. I loosened the nuts holding the left mount to the engine block almost all the way out then slid the trans over to line up its mount bolts to make sure nothing was under tension, and it all dropped into place. I then measured the gap between the left engine mount and the engine block mount ears on the left side, and came up with a 1/4" gap. I made steel spacers for that side mount out of 1/4" steel plate to make up the gap, and installed longer grade 8 bolts to make up the difference. My K frame was out of a granny V8 4 door car that was never wrecked, still retained its oem paint.
Loosening the rubber mount to K frame nuts on the biscuit mounts wont allow any side to side movement of the engine and trans since these mounts are slotted up and down not side to side.
When these things were built and soft factory mounts were used on the assembly line they would make the driveline fit. That would mean shoving it 1 way or another with a pry bar to get the bolts in. However forcing the trans in place and having it under constant tension will only give you another broken mount. Whichever side the trans is swung over to, you loosen to opposite side engine mount to bring it back to center, then make spacers the thickness of the gap between the mount and block ears.
In a perfect world all this will drop in place, but when it wont, you improvise. See pic below. Trans in mine was shifted over to the left 1.5" i added 1/4" spacers between engine mount and block, and it moved it 1.5" back to center on the trans end. This is by no means perfect, but is a solid solution. It takes the load off the mounts and centers the trans. I did not want to use washers to spacer it out as i think that will put added stress on the mount ears because of the smaller surface area. I made my spacers to run the length of the mount where it overlaps the engine block ears. Basically rectangles with rounded ends, and holes drilled in them.
Hope this helps you out
Matt
The way these cars were built back in the day was not very accurate. I installed a 74 spool mount K in my 67 notch, and dropped in a 318, and 4 speed for mocking things up. All my mounts are polyurethane so there is no give to them like rubber has. What i found was the trans was sitting about 1.5" off to the right, and not moveable at all. I loosened the nuts holding the left mount to the engine block almost all the way out then slid the trans over to line up its mount bolts to make sure nothing was under tension, and it all dropped into place. I then measured the gap between the left engine mount and the engine block mount ears on the left side, and came up with a 1/4" gap. I made steel spacers for that side mount out of 1/4" steel plate to make up the gap, and installed longer grade 8 bolts to make up the difference. My K frame was out of a granny V8 4 door car that was never wrecked, still retained its oem paint.
Loosening the rubber mount to K frame nuts on the biscuit mounts wont allow any side to side movement of the engine and trans since these mounts are slotted up and down not side to side.
When these things were built and soft factory mounts were used on the assembly line they would make the driveline fit. That would mean shoving it 1 way or another with a pry bar to get the bolts in. However forcing the trans in place and having it under constant tension will only give you another broken mount. Whichever side the trans is swung over to, you loosen to opposite side engine mount to bring it back to center, then make spacers the thickness of the gap between the mount and block ears.
In a perfect world all this will drop in place, but when it wont, you improvise. See pic below. Trans in mine was shifted over to the left 1.5" i added 1/4" spacers between engine mount and block, and it moved it 1.5" back to center on the trans end. This is by no means perfect, but is a solid solution. It takes the load off the mounts and centers the trans. I did not want to use washers to spacer it out as i think that will put added stress on the mount ears because of the smaller surface area. I made my spacers to run the length of the mount where it overlaps the engine block ears. Basically rectangles with rounded ends, and holes drilled in them.
Hope this helps you out
Matt
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