transmission swap

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Miles73

Miles73

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hey this is my first time posting here, i have a 1973 doge dart swinger with 318 and a torque flite 904 3 speed i want to swap the transmission to a Manual, has any one done this before? if so what transmissions will bolt in or fit?
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What are complete 4 speed conversions going for today? If you can find someone with everything ready to install ???? .
 
Miles73 said:
thank you, do you think i will be able to find any of these at a junkyard?
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a 230 3speed maybe. 833 is unlikely, but anything can happen. the passon 5spd no way jose.

besides the transmission there's a whole laundry list of other components that you're going to need. some available new, some refurbished/rebuilt, some you'll have to hunt around for. all of it is expensive.
 
What is your skill level on working on cars? The stock manual boxes require a hump be installed to clear the shifter and rods.

You will need to get started:

Pedal set or clutch pedal
Z Bar
Z Bar kit (return spring pivot balls, clips, etc)
Pedal to Zbar link
Frame Ball Pivot
Bell Housing ball pivot
Bell Housing
Throw out arm and pivot
Maybe a crossmember
Maybe a drive shaft or yours modified
Yoke to match trans and driveshaft joints
Shifter, mounting plate, rods, bushings and clips
Transmission for an A-body or F-body
Throw out bearing
Tunnel Hump

I'm sure I missed something.
 
Hi @Miles73 , I'm located in long beach as well and I have some 4 speed parts available. I can't seem to open a conversation with you, I think your mailbox is full. If interested please message me so we can discuss
 
IF YOU can or know a friend who can fabricate, you might consider hydraulic. I bought a piece of a 'short run' from a member here, but may no longer have it due to the house fire. It was a trick little piece that mounted at angle in the original pushrod - firewall hole, and allowed a modern master to be used (remote reservoir) with a cylinder mounted in the bracket. This eliminates the problems with the z bar and you can then either use a external slave on the bell, or a hydraulic T/O bearing.
 
I performed this on my Duster over 20 years ago. This was before some things were available from some current reproduction/aftermarket sources. Things such as metal transmission tunnel humps were not available. There were fiberglass versions back then, but I wouldn't use those myself. Based on my notes from then, with used and new parts and sources available then, and what I remember, I've written a document describing the conversion process for an A-body.

The document follows and might prove helpful in your conversion. Comments are welcome for things I may have missed, particularly for 1960-1966, or just mis-remembered. Formatting is not great here, but viewable. FYI...


A Chrysler A-body column shift automatic transmission to floor shift manual transmission conversion.
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Author: Gary Lewallen (aka. Vaanth)
Date: 11 April 2025 — DRAFT 1
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Copyright 2025 Gary Lewallen (DRAFT)
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Introduction and General Notes
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The following procedure is based on my conversion of my 1970 Plymouth Duster from column automatic to manual transmission using factory or stock replacement parts. I did this 1970 Duster manual conversion over 20 years ago. Aftermarket parts available now might offer some different approaches. At the same time, I also converted the car from a six cylinder to V-8, upgraded the rear axle, and upgraded from drum brakes to later A-body disk brakes.

I did not use a console in my 1970 Duster but I have included notes about using a console in this application from my separate conversion of my 1973 Plymouth Duster from column automatic to floor shift automatic with console. Because I did not use a console specifically with the 1970 Duster manual transmission, some manual console specific items may be omitted.

I have combined and generalized the procedure for Chrysler A-bodies, but it mostly would be the same for other Chrysler body styles. Following the general procedure here are some additional notes specific to my Duster changeover. The generalizations may not be all-encompassing, but should provide a basic guideline.

A factory service manual is advised. The procedure here addresses the conversion aspects. Refer to a
service manual for general service procedures.

The simplest approach is to pull everything from a single, and similar, donor car. Take any reference measurements that may be useful in checking the installation of the tunnel extension housing, etc.

For adding a console. take reference measurements from the donor car for the console bracket mount points.
If you collect the pieces without reference measurements, use an existing floor mount car if possible to measure/compare. If not available, you can go by mocking the console in place with respect to the shifter itself.

If converting a floor shift automatic, the steering column can be retained. The 4-speed specific console parts will need to be substituted.

If converting an original column shift 3-speed model, retain the pedal assembly and perform the floor and steering column aspects only.

The transmission crossmember is the same between manual and automatic for the year ranges discussed. 1970-up changed to the spool-type transmission mount and matching crossmember.

This is written for factory shifters. Aftermarket shifters may have other considerations. Replacement shifters should not change the procedure itself though.

The engine crankshaft in automatic transmission cars may not have a transmission input shaft pilot bushing, or may not be drilled for one. If not drilled, it will have to be drilled and reamed to size for the factory bushing.

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Possible Donors and Conversion Notes
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Donors:
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1967-1976 A-bodies: any with floor mounted manual shifter.
1960-1966 A-bodies: any with floor mounted manual shifter might work, with some adaptation.

Notes:
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A column shift model can provide the pedal assembly and the transmission and bellhousing. A floor shift model is required to provide the tunnel extension (hump) and the floor shifter/linkage. Humps from 3-speed and 4-speed models interchange.

4-speed models were available with floor consoles or without. Consoles are the same, but 1967-1969 had argent type lids and 1970-1976 had wood grain lids (with some exceptions such as Hang 10 Dart Sports).
Some 1970s models may have been available non-console only.

Air conditioning cars equipped with consoles had a clearance notch cut in the front.

Shifters interchange; 1967-1969 had the Inland shifter or Hurst shifter for 4-speeds. The Inland shifter uses a different transmission mount than the Hurst.

1970 and later applications incorporated the clutch safety start switch. Heavy duty applications, such as the 340 cars, utilized Oilite bushings in the pedal linkage pivot points; others used nylon bushings.

A steering column from a floor shift model, automatic or manual, can be used to replace the original column shift item. Note that 1970 and later used the switch on the column and steering lock function.

1960-1966 A-body, most items as with 1967-1976 should work, with some adaptation, burn are separately listed here due to uncertainty because I have not used them.

1976-1980 F-body, manual transmission equipped. The F-body cars, Aspen and Volare, can be a donor for the transmission. The F-body and A-body transmission lengths are the same. F-body cars came with the overdrive A-833 4-speed version in addition to three speed transmission. The F-body pedals are a possible use for A-bodies.

1966-1980 Any model are possible donors for bellhousings, flywheels, and steering column housing parts for conversion of an existing column (except tilt).

The A-833 4-speed transmissions had three different drive pinion retainer pilot outer diameters. Ensure the correct bellhousing and pilot diameter mating is used. Refer to the Mopar Performance Chassis Manual for specifics of the differences.

The A-833 4-speed transmissions from a pre-66 model will have the flange type output and require a matching ball and trunnion drive shaft or conversion to a slip yoke output.

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Items Required for Conversion
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  • Shifter (console model if using console). Factory style shifters or direct replacements are assumed.
  • Shifter linkage: gear selector, three rods for A-833, two rods for A-230.
  • Linkage from steering column to interlock for 1970 and later.
  • Shifter to transmission mount bracket: 3-speed mounts directly, depending on the shifter, 4-speed uses an adapter. Hurst is different from Inland.
  • Tunnel extension housing (hump), which is welded to the floor.
  • Console, if desired)
  • Console brackets (welded to floor, one in front, one in rear), if using a console.
  • Steering column or shift housing (below lock housing). 1969 and earlier did not have a locking column. The entire column will interchange, but switch considerations and upper housing differences occur.
  • Transmission: An A/F-body A-833, A-230, etc. NOTE: the A-250 3-speed is not really considered here due to its shift mechanism.
  • Driveshaft to match the transmission. Most A-body A-833 transmissions with a slip yoke use the same yoke as an A-727 automatic. The A-230 transmission uses the same slip yoke as an A-904 automatic.
  • Clutch bellcrank (Z-bar) and mounting hardware. This mounts to the bellhousing and the frame rail via ball studs. The studs and bushing hardware is available new from Mopar Performance (# P4529489 ) and other sources. There is a small trapezoidal shaped bracket that is welded to the fenderwell on the left side. This bracket is required for proper support of the bellcrank.
  • Clutch rod that runs through firewall oval hole (this hole is CapPlug sealed on non manual cars), the oval hole firewall boot, release adjustable rod, washer and insulator or metal ball swivel release bearing pivot, pivot return spring. Most of these are available as Mopar Performance # P4529448 and P4529451 and other sources. NOTE: heavy duty swivel # 2401740 can replace the washer and insulator. These can be found on pickup trucks and other sources.
  • Clutch fork and pivot.
  • Bellhousing that matches the drive pinion retainer pilot outer diameters of the transmission to be used and the flywheel to be used.
  • Pilot bushing if not already in the crankshaft. Chrysler #53298. For a drilled, unreamed, crankshaft, use NAPA 615-1033 (if possible to find). Alternatively, for an undrilled crankshaft, use Chrysler #53009180AB needle bearing (BCA # FC69907) which requires cutting the nose of the input shaft for clearance.
  • Flywheel to match the engine. 360s and other external balance engines require a specific balance flywheel. Flywheel diameters and ring tooth counts vary.
  • Clutch assembly and release bearing.
  • Connector for transmission reverse lamp switch.
  • Switch and wiring for clutch safety switch for 1970 and later, if using.
  • New carpet for manual floor shift application.
  • Seats as appropriate.
  • Dial indicator and attachments for checking bellhousing runout (optional but highly advisable).
  • Clutch alignment tool or loose transmission input shaft.
  • Sheet metal cutting and welding equipment.
  • Jacking, support, and other equipment as required.
  • Hand tools as required.

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Conversion Procedure
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  1. Procure the needed parts, equipment and tooling. When removing the console brackets, if using, try to not distort them. Use the curvature of the attachment points as a re-mounting guide. Also, minimize distortion of the hump if removed from a donor. The pedal assembly can be removed as a unit. Steering column removal is required to remove pedal assembly. Dash removal on the donor vehicle will facilitate pedal assembly removal but it is not required. The pedal assembly is retained by four studs to the firewall, which also retains the master cylinder or brake booster bracket, and two-three bolts to the steering column support. There is also a small support on the right upper side retained by two nuts and two bolts.
  2. Clean welding flash from the hump, if a used hump, and the bellcrank frame rail mount;
  3. Remove the steering column and linkage;
  4. Remove the front seat(s);
  5. Remove the kick panels and carpet which includes sill plates, et.al;
  6. Optionally, remove the dash. This is not required, but access to the pedals will be much better;
  7. Disconnect the brake master cylinder rod from pedal assembly;
  8. Remove the retaining bolts and nuts from the column support, firewall and auxiliary support;
  9. Remove the old pedal assembly;
  10. Remove the driveshaft;
  11. Support the automatic transmission and remove the crossmember;
  12. Support the engine and remove the automatic transmission and its linkages;
  13. Remove the flex plate;
  14. Remove the transmission cooling lines;
  15. Remove and plug cooling the line fittings in transmission;
  16. At this point it is advisable to check crankshaft to bellhousing drive pinion retainer pilot opening runout. Refer to the factory service manual or Mopar Performance documentation for the procedure and specifications.
  17. Install the dual pedal assembly, secure the mounting bolts and nuts;
  18. Install the clutch rod through the firewall with the sealing boot;
  19. Install and connect the clutch safety switch, if using. This requires drilling a firewall hole for wire grommet if not present. The switch wiring connects to the 'G' terminal on the starter relay. If not using the switch, ground this terminal;
  20. If the vehicle is 1969 or later, the reverse lamp switch is incorporated into the automatic transmission neutral safety switch. Cut the connector off and splice into the reverse lamp wires, which are typically violet and black. The neutral safety wire will not be used here. If the vehicle is a pre-1969 vehicle, the reverse lamp switch will be on the shifter (console) or steering column. Extend and connect the wires to the manual reverse lamp switch connector;
  21. Position the hump along the tunnel. Look for some subtle bumps along the floorpan which are used to locate it at the factory. Also, the curvature of the edge will tend to self-align the hump to some extent. New replacement humps may have different provisions.
  22. Mark the outline of the hump on the floorpan/tunnel;
  23. Remove the hump and cut about 1/2" in from the marked line around the entire perimeter. Be aware of the torsion bar crossmember in the area where you are cutting. Remove the cutout. There may be spotwelds to the cross rail that must be broken;
  24. Clean up the cutout area as needed;
  25. Position the hump along the tunnel as previously outlined for marking;
  26. Weld the hump to the tunnel. Watch for undercar fires with undercoating and/or oil. It is suggested to tack weld the hump, then mock install the transmission and shifter to check for clearances. This is not necessary if careful placement occurs, plus the shifter opening allows for some variance;
  27. Using one of the bellcrank (Z-bar) ball studs, secure the frame rail mount in the existing fenderwell hole above the frame rail;
  28. Weld the frame rail mount to the frame rail;
  29. Install the flywheel on the engine;
  30. Align and install the clutch assembly;
  31. Install the bellhousing, clutch fork and release pivot with release bearing;
  32. Install the transmission, and crossmember with mount;
  33. Connect the reverse lamp switch and route wiring;
  34. Install the bellcrank assembly and clutch rods;
  35. Check the function of the clutch;
  36. Adjust the clutch per service manual;
  37. Install the shifter mount and shifter without the boot;
  38. Connect the linkages;
  39. Check the function of the shifter; adjust as needed;
  40. Seal the hump to tunnel edge;
  41. If using a console, do the following:
    1. Using the reference measurements align the front and rear console brackets;
    2. If no measurements are available, use the console, without the lid to align the brackets. Align the console on the shifter and align and mark the front bracket. The rear is under the storage area, so align it as well as possible. Both brackets have slotted holes for adjustability;
    3. Tack weld the console brackets;
    4. Temporarily install the console and lid;
    5. Check for interference of the console with shifter and A/C housing, if so equipped;
    6. If it all checks out, remove the console, etc. and fully weld the brackets. Watch for undercar fires with undercoating and/or oil;
  42. Secure the crossmember, transmission, et.al.;
  43. Install the driveshaft;
  44. Install the new carpet, cutting the opening for the shifter, and console brackets if using;
  45. Install the correct column. If a shift housing swap is to be performed, refer to the service manual for a breakdown, but basically: remove the wheel, turn signal switch, upper housing, lock plate and lock, ignition switch and cylinder, shifter, lock screw (in the shifter hole), and the shift housing. Replace shift housing, lock housing, and upper housing and reinstall. Some model year variances may require mount adjustment;
  46. Connect the 1970 and later interlock if using;
  47. Install the shifter boot and trim;
  48. Install the console if using;
  49. Check the function of the shifter. Assure no binding, etc.;
  50. Install the seats. If installing bucket seats in an original bench seat car, the mounting holes must be drilled. There are usually some indentations in the floorpan for these. It is advised to reinforce the drilled areas. The factory did this on the holes adjacent to the tunnel. The holes can be reinforced by small, ~2x3", ~1/16" thick steel plates, drilled, and welded to the floor. The outer holes can also be reinforced;
  51. Test operation of the clutch and shifter with engine running at a standstill. If all checks out, test drive the car;
  52. Make any adjustments as required;
  53. Enjoy.

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Some details for my 1970 Duster that I converted
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Originally equipped:
  • 225 slant six engine.
  • A-904 automatic, column shift.
  • 7-¼” rear axle.
  • 9" drum brakes.
  • Bench seat.
Now equipped:
  • Flywheel: From a 1972 318 Duster with an A-230 three speed transmission.
  • Bellhousing: From a 1972 318 Duster with an A-230 three speed transmission.
  • Transmission: A-833 from a 1968 Barracuda, with 2.66:1 first gear,
  • Clutch assembly: Zoom 10.5" Borg & Beck rebuilt: disc: 105630, cover: 25002.
  • Release bearing: Borg Warner N1463.
  • Floor hump: From a 1972 Duster.
  • Pedals: From a 1972 Duster.
  • Bellcrank & related parts: From a 1972 Duster.
  • Driveshaft: 51.5” from a 1971 Demon with 3-speed and 8-¾ rear axle.
  • Shifter: Inland, from a 1968 Barracuda.
  • Shifter boot: Chrysler 2950074.
  • Seats: 1973 Dart Sport buckets recovered with 1971 covers. Homemade floor braces.
  • Rear axle: 8-¾” from a 1970 Road Runner with 3.91:1 SureGrip, and relocated spring perches.
  • Carpet: Auto Custom Carpet for manual transmission, floor shift.
  • Engine: 1972 340.
  • V-8 K-member: from a 1969 273 Dart with lower control arms and front sway bar from a 1970 340 Duster.
  • Front disk brakes: from a 1975 Dart mounted on rear to clear pre-1970 sway bar.

My Duster that was converted:
Duster.jpg

PXL_20240630_223246472.jpg

Duster_Shifter.jpg
 
Last edited:
Also, OldManMopar has posted photos on here, the high performance cars had slightly different dimensions on the clutch pedal pivot.
 
I cannot help but reply to these... Malwood pedal and hydrualic TOB, with an A833.

My parts list was relatively small, the pedal is the biggest expense other than trans

On my 440, went with lakewood aluminum bell, it was cheap. Its crappy which Brewers posted about and is 100% correct about. However, because I went hydraulic much of the issues were avoidable. It still had challenges, the center bore was almost too small to fit the ring, and the ring was a little tight on trans, overcame easy and still passed runout

Malwood pedal, which once you see and use it, 100% better than any hydraulic pedal conversion (I have brand new American power train kit that I cannot seem to give away). It of course gets around the whole z bar/linkage parts chase

A833 found locally that i had a local builder go through, shifts excellent

Mcleod street pro clutch. Originally bought when I was going small block (car was a roller) but gave it a try in the 440. Its holding up well, it would be more than fine in a small block car in my humble opinion. Its relatively cheap

TOB is cheap if you buy the RAM bearing. The Malwood bearing is much better, depends on your budget

I found a used trans hump locally. Cleaned it up. Cut out the area in question, used panel adhesive to slap it down, then seam sealed it

Anyone can do this swap. I am a youtube/google/forum trained terrible mechanic and my swap works very well.
 

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