Yup, I've seen that! I previously saw it on the Holley website. That would do a perfect job. Cons there are the cost, and size. It would require some serious cutting of the tunnel, because it also works for the TKO which is a tank compared to the TKX. BUT, it would perfectly replace the factory part, if not make it stronger since that piece is thicker steel (I know it looks thin, but the factory stamped steel is even thinner). I would argue a weld is not even necessary, but convenient to avoid clunking while driving.
You make some valid points. But would not the transmission itself (which is bolted to the new crossmember) act as a trianglualtion point?
Holley has a bolt in brace for their Hemi swap stuff with the TKX. Hooker BlackHeart BHS588 Hooker Blackheart TKX Transmission Crossmember Support I don't think it would work in this situation since Holley moves the motor forward with their swap parts, but it kind of says to me that they feel the crossmember needs to be reinforced when the middle is removed. They also have one for the NAG1 swap: Hooker BlackHeart BHS578 Hooker Blackheart Transmission Crossmember Hoop
Interesting. Thank you for the picture and the illustration. Definitely makes it more understandable. @AJ/FormS was trying to explain the same thing to me. There are some smart smart people on here.
@Norm.P , it makes my day that I was able to get the point across! That first link is only the lower crossmember section. But... the hoop is *fantastic*! That is perfection, you cannot get any better than that. If that hoop fits the TKX (or could be made to fit it), that would be the end-all be-all solution. The price is awesome too! That's good thinking, but no, because the trans is bolted to the lowest section of the crossmember. So even though its position suggests it would complete the triangle, the forces would only travel through the mounting points, which are at the bottom. In other words, the t bars are also pulling the transmission toward the ground when you hit a bump (but that would not happen if you connected the crossmember at the top).
It's actually marketed as a brace. It goes along with the crossmember. Here is a snap from their instructions: Not arguing that it does the job, only that Holley felt the need to offer it.
jcolmans car definitely has more stress on it than mine. He has 200 miles on his already and driving it. LOL I think that's awesome. My cars next trip is to be slid over a couple feet in the garage to paint and assemble. Have not touched it in a while. Been busy. Lots of ways to do the install. If everyone did everything the same way things would be pretty dull. Let's see those ideas.
I was thinking screw it. I'll just order the Passon A855 and not cut any structure. Downside is I'll probably be waiting a couple years!
Oh! Thanks for the picture! Makes a lot more sense. It looks like it definitely helps and is better than not having it, but it's still definitely not as good as the top connection. For a low power car that only sees great quality pavement, I would probably be comfortable running that in a mild application. There's a YouTuber who fabbed this setup, I like it. It's simple and strong. Takes a bit of work to make, but I think I can pull it off even with my limited fabbing skills.
I certainly appreciate the education in rotational forces as it applies to our cars. While I won't be dropping the transmission and installing a top brace anytime soon, I will be keeping an eye on things while I drive it. I don't race the car but as mentioned, there are dips on the road that sometimes you can't avoid.
