Trouble Spraying High Build Primer

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I'm using SPI turbo High Build primer. I'm shooting it with the recommended 1.8 and higher tip. The gun I'm using is a harborfreight purple gun with a bigger tip and the trouble that I'm having is I cannot get it to flow like the epoxy did. I have the fan wide open and I have the fluid wide open and the primer comes out of the gun and immediately orange peels. It starts to flow out real nice just before the cup empties, so I'm not sure what's going on. I do know that that primer is super thick.

I am shooting it in reduced as the tech sheet says reducing it for the final blocking.

Any thoughts?
 
Manufacturers will caution about over-reducing but you may, in fact, have to reduce it more. Matrix epoxy is that way and even the dealer suggests it.
 
70Duster440 said:
Manufacturers will caution about over-reducing but you may, in fact, have to reduce it more. Matrix epoxy is that way and even the dealer suggests it.
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Im gonna give Barry a call on Monday and see what he suggests. This wasn't reduced at all as the tech sheet says, reduce for final blocking. I don't mind reducing, but I need the high build for blocking.
 
HF purple gun is now tagged as HVLP. Whats LP about 70 psi? The range is 30-70psi, I dont know......I even own one but have not shot with it yet.
 
What brand of primer r u shooting. If its like some ive used its almost like sprayable bondo. Ive had 2 use a 2.1 tip for those. Example is evercoat polyester primer. Its thick and sprays very good out of a 2.1
 
U could also close the fan up a bit and over reduce it. So it flows out instead of dry spraying it from the atomization
 
lenky1 said:
What brand of primer r u shooting. If its like some ive used its almost like sprayable bondo. Ive had 2 use a 2.1 tip for those. Example is evercoat polyester primer. Its thick and sprays very good out of a 2.1
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Its SPI turbo high build primer. I may have to see if I can borrow one with a bigger tip.
 
lenky1 said:
U could also close the fan up a bit and over reduce it. So it flows out instead of dry spraying it from the atomization
Click to expand...

I am not reducing it all now, due to the tech sheet saying only 10% reduction for "regular build" I'm gonna call Barry them owner and see what he thinks.
 
The p sheet says 1.8 to 2.2 tip needs used. Im a body man and painter by trade. 10% reduction will b fine. And u will b amazed at the difference
 
If ur worried about build an extra coat or 2 will easily cover whats lost by reduction
 
I have never shot that primer, but temperature and humidity will mess with the outcome big time.
And shooting primer in direct sunlight with the metal hot, is a guarantee orange-peel city.
 
sireland67 said:
I have never shot that primer, but temperature and humidity will mess with the outcome big time.
And shooting primer in direct sunlight with the metal hot, is a guarantee orange-peel city.
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After thinking about this more, I think it was temp temp related. It was about 80 deg metal temp. That primer also has a VERY snort pot life, like 30 mins. I will block out what I have and try shooting first thing in the morn. The car is inside tho. Here are some teaser pics. Ignore the pass side fender extension, I had a stubborn nut I couldn't get loose, so I need to get some heat on it. Also, the lighter gray is epoxy, I am gonna do some light filler over those areas.

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Wrapped a paint roller in sand paper will give you the str8test body , just be carefully up and down most cars have a curfew to them and be carefully of flat spotting and it will turn out AWsome. Gl looks sweet. Hagr812
 
Even if u orange peel the primer. Throw an extra few coats on it. Dry block it w like 320 then do ur wet sanding. Its no biggy
 
I just sprayed a high build 2k primer last night using the HF purple gun. I did not reduce, but did tighten the fan to 3-4", got close to the panel and slowed down. It works, just gotta finagle the gun a bit.
 
I talked to Barry and he said temp shouldn't be an issue. What is common is the plug at the top of the gun doesn't allow enough air in. He suggested opening it up with a 1/8th drill bit. He also said because it started spraying nice towards the end of the cup, the air tip was probably clogged and it got blown out.

He suggested a little reducer shot through it before respraying as that will melt any residual.
 
I used that same gun for SPI primer. That gun really has to be cleaned well before and after every use. Otherwise it becomes a throw away.

I used my Iwata gun for the epoxy, base and clear. Barry’s epoxy and clears are the ****. That guy is awesome. You’ll love how his stuff sands too.
 
Metal temp and air temp are two different things. It would have to be over 100 degrees air temp to get your metal temp that high. There is nothing wrong with reducing a high build primer. You will thin the material enough to make it spray nicely and you will notice it "soaking" into sand scratches and body filler. I would much prefer this than slapping a thick film over heavy scratches that are only bridging these scratches and pin holes (they will return). Secondly if you over reduce it you will just end up with more sprayable material... just add additional coats to get your mil thickness... Also when you over reduce primer it will lay down much better which makes sanding easier. It gets a bit annoying to sand all of the style lines and edges that have massive orange peel.. Make it easy on yourself.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Metal temp and air temp are two different things. It would have to be over 100 degrees air temp to get your metal temp that high. There is nothing wrong with reducing a high build primer. You will thin the material enough to make it spray nicely and you will notice it "soaking" into sand scratches and body filler. I would much prefer this than slapping a thick film over heavy scratches that are only bridging these scratches and pin holes (they will return). Secondly if you over reduce it you will just end up with more sprayable material... just add additional coats to get your mil thickness... Also when you over reduce primer it will lay down much better which makes sanding easier. It gets a bit annoying to sand all of the style lines and edges that have massive orange peel.. Make it easy on yourself.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I am going to block out what I have and go from there, reducing what I have.
 
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