TTI Clearance

[Mlarche]

I am working on a 340 install for a 67 barracuda and have been having a lot of clearance issues. First with the Milidon 8 qt. oil pan and K-member. This led me to install a QA1 K-member. Then I had issues with my Hedman header primary tubes hitting my edelbrock performer rpm heads. This clearance issue was solved with my new full length TTI headers. Now I am having clearance issues between the drivers side header and the pitman arm (see photos). I have the motor as far back as it will go. I called TTI and they said the idler arm and pitman arm should have the same amount of clearance (about 1/4"). Oddly enough, the idler arm has about 3/4" clearance (see photo). Has anyone else had this issue?

 

[72bluNblu]

It's not uncommon to have to shim the engine mounts up on one side or the other to get some clearance with the TTI or Doug's headers. Well, any headers really, but the less expensive headers people usually just dimple because they're too far off for a shim or two to fix things. Even TTI's and Doug's need some dimples added on some cars, just the nature of the beast with headers on these cars. The tolerances on these cars are pretty loose, and header clearance is at a premium. Even the expensive headers usually take a little work.

 

[Bodyperson]

Isn't there some adjustment in the box bolts? I forget. Of course now you could induce some bump steer, or fix bump steer.

 

[72bluNblu]

Isn't there some adjustment in the box bolts? I forget. Of course now you could induce some bump steer, or fix bump steer.

There isn't very much adjustment there. Might be worth loosening the bolts and giving it a try, but it probably won't change much for the header clearance.

It might also be worth replacing the pitman arm, because that one looks pretty rough. Could be bent? The idler looks new, so, that could be part of the issue as well.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

heat it up and bend it just enough to clear properly .

 

[72bluNblu]

heat it up and bend it just enough to clear properly .

Yeah that’s a horrible idea.

Let’s see, heat up and bend a vital steering component, thereby changing your steering geometry and possibly the strength of the pitman arm. Or put a small dimple in the header, changing nothing.

He still haven’t even exhausted all the options yet. Shimming the engine mount is easy. Buying a new pitman arm to match the idler arm and possibly replace a damaged part is easy. And either one of those options could solve the clearance issue. And if not, a little dimple there in the header won’t hurt a thing.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I switched to the 73 up style steering parts..............and a minor dimple. I let the idler put a scratch on the pipe, to mark the exact spot, then gave it the right shaped clearance........ but my TTIs were not C-coated.
IIRC I had to clearance a few other spots.

I have that same pan, and I just had to cut a small triangle out of the K during the install. (70 Duster K in a 68 Barracuda, now with 73 steering.)

 

[Bodyperson]

Is it possible the Qa1 cross member is not compatible with the "one off" 67 linkage?
What is different about the 73 linkage verses the 68 steering linkage?

 

[scampy]

My pitman arm rubs there too on 72 scamp we have a couple shims under the motor mount to help but still rubs it

 

[AJ/FormS]

Is it possible the Qa1 cross member is not compatible with the "one off" 67 linkage?
What is different about the 73 linkage verses the 68 steering linkage?

The later stuff is inverted, that's all; the studs point down, but the Zerks are still too tall. Those at least can be removed and plugged.

EDIT
But mine still needed a dimple

 

[rustycowll69]

the more things change, the more they stay the same! My 70 Cuda with 340 and Hooker headers had the same contact point in 1970. I dimpled the tube, too.

 

[67autocross]

My 72 Scamp needed these shims under the motor mounts...

 

[67autocross]

And a little grinding here to clear the TTI headers...

 

[Biff]

I am working on a 340 install for a 67 barracuda and have been having a lot of clearance issues. First with the Milidon 8 qt. oil pan and K-member. This led me to install a QA1 K-member. Then I had issues with my Hedman header primary tubes hitting my edelbrock performer rpm heads. This clearance issue was solved with my new full length TTI headers. Now I am having clearance issues between the drivers side header and the pitman arm (see photos). I have the motor as far back as it will go. I called TTI and they said the idler arm and pitman arm should have the same amount of clearance (about 1/4"). Oddly enough, the idler arm has about 3/4" clearance (see photo). Has anyone else had this issue?

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I’ve got a question how much lighter is the qa1 stuff sorry no idea about the headers but use a socket heat em up pound it into the header ,bobs your uncle clearance !

 

[jimjimjimmy]

it won't hurt one thing to heat it up and bend it 1/4 inch it's been done that way for 50 years .
give Chuck Lofgren a call and ask him what he recommends .

 

[moparcrazy]

call TTI first see what they say !!

 

[Mlarche]

So I backed off the torsion bar tension, loosened the transmission mount, lifted the motor with an engine hoist, and loosened the k-member. With all that stuff loose I was able to shift around the K-member and motor slightly and get a little more clearance with pitman arm. I ended up putting a shim on the drivers side motor mount and that did it. Now the pitman arm clears the header by about 1/8" and I didn't have to dent my headers!

 

[rustycowll69]

So I backed off the torsion bar tension, loosened the transmission mount, lifted the motor with an engine hoist, and loosened the k-member. With all that stuff loose I was able to shift around the K-member and motor slightly and get a little more clearance with pitman arm. I ended up putting a shim on the drivers side motor mount and that did it. Now the pitman arm clears the header by about 1/8" and I didn't have to dent my headers!

you still have to be careful because at extreme conditions, like hairing it up around corners, it could still bind up and momentarily lock up your steering linkage. It may not be an issue for you, just be aware so you're not surprised.

 

[72bluNblu]

it won't hurt one thing to heat it up and bend it 1/4 inch it's been done that way for 50 years .
give Chuck Lofgren a call and ask him what he recommends .

Won’t hurt a thing huh? You mean it won’t change the arc that the pitman arm moves in? Which won’t change the steering geometry? Because it sure as hell will.

People used to ride around in cars without seat belts too, and not all of them died. But that doesn’t make it a good idea, let alone safe. Just because someone did something stupid in the past and lived to tell about it doesn’t make it the right way to do it, it just means they got away with doing something stupid.

So I backed off the torsion bar tension, loosened the transmission mount, lifted the motor with an engine hoist, and loosened the k-member. With all that stuff loose I was able to shift around the K-member and motor slightly and get a little more clearance with pitman arm. I ended up putting a shim on the drivers side motor mount and that did it. Now the pitman arm clears the header by about 1/8" and I didn't have to dent my headers!

There you go! This stuff can take some adjusting to work properly, especially when headers are involved.

I would still recommend changing out that pitman. The idler looks new, and you’re supposed to change the idler and pitman as a pair. Plus the pitman looks a little rough, it could still be bent or tweaked somehow.