TTI Small Block Shorty Header Install

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Darter6

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Tti Small Block Shorty Header Install

I have installed many sets of TTI LONG TUBE headers but this is the first time installing their shorty set. Along with the Shorty's a complete TTI matching exhaust system to the back bumper.It's a 68 Valiant with a 273 mostly stock with 4 BBL and a Jegs #200161 cam kit.The cam is very similar to a 340 auto cam of the 60's/70's. By all means the 273 runs very good but is maybe 220 HP at the most with the upgrades.That is why I wanted to try the shorty's for the ease of installation. And easy it was.Follow along with me during this install.

The 2 boxes arrived,1 with the headers and the other with the complete exhaust system.I think the packages and packing could handle a nuke bomb explosion.Heavy packing material and all pipes have plastic caps and foam to keep the pipe ends from damage during shipping.
This shorty set is specific part number for 273/318 small port heads.# TTI34025273-C4 These are ceramic coated with a internal thermal coating.Shorty header adapter pipes to exhaust system # AD-T340440AC,their Torque shaft assembly for A-body column shift applications part # A34025TSA. More to come.

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As you can see from the above photo the TTI system is way better than the single system it is replacing. The car has been up and running for about a year and the cobbled up single system was used till all the bugs and what nots were worked out and I was sure that the small block was staying between the fenders.

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.This was the easiest installation ever. No lie,after the manifolds were removed it took no longer than 10 minutes that the gaskets and headers were in place and bolted down. I even re-used the end studs in the heads,always do if I can help it.In from the top on the passenger side and in from the bottom on the driver side.No jacking of the engine,no steering removal,not even the plug wires or plugs. The engine to transmission braces need to be removed as with any header installation along with the factory starter. A quick wipe down with a soap and water cloth was used to keep the coating clean and so no prints or marks would be left behind burnt in when the engine is started. Do it several times while installing the exhaust pipes to be sure.

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Next is the Torque Shaft Assembly that is made to clear the pipes.A better shot photo.

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AS PER INSTRUCTIONS,start from the rear of the car installing the tail pipe hangers and the muffler hangers. The muffler hangers are bolted to the factory seat belt brackets.Special longer seat belt bolts are sent with the exhaust kit.Remove the back seat bottom R&R the bolts from inside the car. Now with the longer bolts installed use the supplied nuts and washers to mount the muffler hangers.(Sorry not the best photo.)The hangers are loosely installed along with the tail pipes and mufflers.The hangers are also adjustable along with the tail pipe hangers to get everything aligned.

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I work by myself so a rack and post jacks are my friends
More to come

I am gonna take a break from the exhaust work to replace the Single wire neutral safety switch to a 3 wire switch. The 68 Valiant had the reverse lite switch on the steering column and was non working so the change to the newer style has both the neutral and reverse lites in one. The replacement switch and plug is from Rock Auto.Advantech # 9A6 switch and Handypack #HP4755 plug.I checked the length of the switches to make sure they were the same to match the rooster comb.I ran wires from plug along the route of then neutral safety wire thru the firewall and connected them to the factory plugs of the reverse lites.

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Back to the exhaust. I ordered the H pipe instead of the X pipe system.The thought is the little 273 is not pumping out enough HP to warrant the X.I think the price was the same. Maybe I'll try it on the next one. I like to check for burs in the pipes and mufflers cleaning them up with a file and sand paper along with some oil at the pipe end fittings so you don't have to fight with them as much.Mufflers in place and intermediate pipes are check fitted. This system is for both 111 and 108 inch wheel base cars,the Dart being the larger so the intermediate pipes were shortened about 3'' to 4''(I just eye balled the length. Also the H pipe is also shortened about 2''.

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Next fit the head pipes and bolt them to the header flanges LAST. Check that everything is nice and straight and tighten the muffler clamps. After all looks good I tack each joint so that nothing moves and the pipes remain straight.

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Oh I forgot to mention that you do need to use a mini starter (2000 Dakota 360 R/T) and I installed it last.It was much easier to tighten the header flange bolts with it out. Starter installation was a breeze,plenty of room with the mini.This photo just shows the starter up in place before the head pipe was installed. Again I installed the pipe,then the starter.

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Mufflers were Dynomax. TTI offers several brands.

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I wanted to hit on the fact that the right angle oil filter adapter can be used or if your small block is a later model, the block flat plate one works too with a short filter.Not the best photo of the right angle adapter as seen on the left of the photo.

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Top shot of adapter

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And last but not least,, adjusting the tail pipes. Even though the hangers are slotted and give adjustment sometimes you need a bit more.As we all know no two Mopars are the same.

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Read more about this article here...
 
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I know a shop that has put in lots of TTI's in mopars over the years and just put these shorties in a 70 Cuda 4sd.

He also said it was super easy. As easy or easier than manifolds. Of course an ebody has more room.
 
Thanks for the write up and photos. I am planning on using this set up in my ride. It was one of the few that worked with a 4 speed and no mods. Looks great.
 
looks great...the down tubes look a little close to the frame rails in the photos. is it Close?i am thinking of going the shorty route too. my long tubes are a little close and rub a little .tti puts together a great system ,love the sound.
 
I think you made a great choice installing those headers. What did you think about the drivers side head pipe? Does it fit well? Did you have to bend it? Is it hitting that torsion bar?
 
dust-u, the photos make it look like they are but have plenty of room.Just the angle of the shot.


TF360 The driver side head pipe is close to the Torsion Bar.BUT TTI puts a dimple in the pipe to clear it. I dimpled it more but found that after everything was bolted up I didn't have to as the pipe had the room.
 
The idler arm looks close, how much clearance?
 
Just the way the photo was taken.No issues at all. I had more photos but the wife deleted them not knowing that I didn't down load the rest. It happens.
 
thanks for posting this. It's post like this that's very helpful :)
 
Darter 6, did they have you mount the rear hangers on the rear frame rails in that orienation because it has no tips? Normally those hanger supports "wrap around" the rails but some of them are made differently and they locate the tips offset in some cases.
Thanks for the great photos!
Tom Hand
 
Darter 6, did they have you mount the rear hangers on the rear frame rails in that orienation because it has no tips? Normally those hanger supports "wrap around" the rails but some of them are made differently and they locate the tips offset in some cases.
Thanks for the great photos!
Tom Hand
Hi Tom, In the instructions it said to use the holes stamped in the frame rails that are 5 1/2 inches inboard from the factory hanger location.It did mention that with tips that location may differ.The factory hanger holes can barely be seen in the photos in the left and right upper corners of these photos.

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So does the article conversion look ok? I caint even get a compliment from the boss when I fish for one so I gave up.
 
Well I thank you, I was wondering who made the changes, Also if it should be in the "How To" section while I was posting it. When it was changed I looked to see who done it, but couldn't. Thanks again. The car sounds great buy the way, and for a 273 and 2.76 gears got a bit more pep.
 
Here I am with a set of TTIs sitting in the shed, and sorta wishing they were shorties
 
Well I thank you, I was wondering who made the changes, Also if it should be in the "How To" section while I was posting it. When it was changed I looked to see who done it, but couldn't. Thanks again. The car sounds great buy the way, and for a 273 and 2.76 gears got a bit more pep.

Thanks!
 
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Thanks Thanks for the TTI update and looks like that's what I will be doing as well sooner than later.
Unfortunaly, I just found a cracked passenger side exhaust manifold on my small port 318.
called TTI and they say 6 weeks to get a set delivered.
There goes the summer? Looking for right side OEM manifold 2643958 anyone have some?
Great post!
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Darter6, I have bookmarked this great write up! I got my manifold to back TTI system today and your pics are going to help this rookie out a lot. If it is not too much trouble, do you have a pick from the back of the car to show the tail pipes in relationship to the bumper. I want to make sure when I'm done, mine are not too far underneath the car. I'm going with turndowns, no tips. My car is a '75 Scamp with those shock absorber bumpers so I may have to do some adjusting.
Thanks,
Woody
 
Give me a day or so And I will photograph a few for you.
 
Sure, The angles that the photos were shot makes them look like they hang low.In reality that is the factory location. Good luck on the installation,It really sounds good.
 
Thank you so much for a truly inciteful article. I plan on doing this to the 68 Dodge Dart GT that I am restoring. Do you by any chance have an idea of the total $ it cost you to do this system? Again thank you, Scampman
 
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any better pics of that head pipe and where it hooks to the header? that looks like a serious bend tight there...
 
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