Tuff Wheel / manual steering

Mopar General Discussions

  1. nodemon

    nodemon Well-Known Member

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    Anyone out there have manual steering / tuff wheel combo..? If so, is it manageable..? 72 Demon
     
  2. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    It’s not a big deal at all. I commented on your other thread already, I have 16:1 manual steering, 275/35/18 tires in the front, and +6.5* of caster. I use my Duster (Demon clone) as my daily driver. It’s not a problem. Not the easiest car to parallel park, but it’s not impossible either. Once you’re doing 10 mph or more it’s a piece of cake.

    If you have the standard 24:1 manual steering and a less aggressive wheel and tire set up than I run it shouldn’t be a problem at all.
     
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    • nodemon

      nodemon Well-Known Member

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      Could you send some pix of your wheel and column..side shot too..?
       
    • 72bluNblu

      72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      These work?

      They're older pictures from before I installed the 6 speed manual and procar seats. The Tuff wheel is a reproduction sold by Dale's Cuda Shop. Mine is actually a "blemished" one from eBay, occasionally the "blem" ones pop up for a little cheaper. Not a perfect copy of the original, the wheel cushion is a harder rubber/plastic material than the original foam. On a daily I actually like the harder material better though, it holds up better.

      Also, my crush can (adaptor) is not an original A or B-body length. I made mine custom out of a much taller E-body crush can. The A-body length was not reproduced at the time, and they were more expensive then the E-body ones (I know right!?) so I cut an E-body one down and made it the length I wanted it. You can see that in the last picture, the crush can has a rib in it still. The E-body crush cans are ribbed like that (with a bunch more because of the added length), the original A/B body ones are smooth.

      img_5170_zps9709f862-jpg.jpg

      img_5173_zps20a8aa1b-jpg.jpg

      img_5176_zps782af97e-jpg.jpg
      IMG_5514.jpeg
       
      Last edited: Feb 9, 2021
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      • nodemon

        nodemon Well-Known Member

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        Thanks for the pix..! You've convinced me with those.. Really digging the crush can too.. Appreciate the help..!
         
      • AdamR

        AdamR Big Member

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        I much prefer manual steering amd have used a tough wheel on a few cars. Not bad at all. But I also run smaller tires on the front.
         
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        • nodemon

          nodemon Well-Known Member

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          Thanks for the input..! I'm just gonna do it...can always go back to the monster wheel of necessary.
           
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          • 67autocross

            67autocross A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel

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            I have a stock bus wheel in my 68 Valiant with a 24:1 box and I actually find it a bit dangerous... you just can’t turn it fast enough to maneuver the car in some driving situations.
            My 72 Scamp with 24:1 box and a Tuff wheel is much better and still very easy to turn...Oldkimmer sold me the Tuff Wheel a few years ago..it’s a knock off but I like it better than the originals or Grant ones I have.
             
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            • drewmac

              drewmac Well-Known Member

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              That carbon dash is awesome!!
               
            • nodemon

              nodemon Well-Known Member

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              Looks very cool..! So, what was the fabrication process to shorten the crush can to get to a body length..?
               
            • 72bluNblu

              72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Thanks! It’s a custom overlay from Detroit Muscle Technology (DMT). I worked with the owner Jim to make a pattern for the lower overlay which they now offer. I don’t think he’s doing the lowers in carbon anymore, but I’m sure you could work something out with him if you really wanted one.

              Probably about what you would expect, I used the ribs on the E-body can as a guide to keep my cuts straight and just cut a section out and then welded the can back together. I made reference marks so I didn’t rotate the steering wheel mounting studs compared to the splines on the other side. And I tacked it in place and went slow TIG welding it back together, checking that the ends remained parallel as I went.

              It’s actually not A-body length either. I took measurements based on my seating position and put the wheel where I wanted it.
               
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              • nodemon

                nodemon Well-Known Member

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                Thanks for the info... Looks greatly.!
                 
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