Turn Signal Problem - SOLVED

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hotrod swinger

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1966 Plymouth Valiant (Canadian)

All four of my parking lights are operational.

Headlight switch is operational and functioning properly.

Brake lamps work.

No turn signals on all four corners.

When I jumper the turn signal flasher connector the turn signal switch turns on the correct bulbs, but they don’t flash of course.

I don’t have hazards in this vehicle.

I’ve already been to the parts store twice today and tried three separate flashers, none of them work.

Any ideas?
 
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Are you using real bulbs or LED's

If "real" bulbs won't flash with a 552 flasher, it is likely that a bad connection in the common flasher path is stopping it. But you say "jumpering" the flasher the bulbs light? Donnnoooo...............
 
I’m running real bulbs. It really has me stumped because when I jumper the connector the bulbs light up when I activate the turn signal switch.

It’s a 552 flasher.

If the bulbs activate properly with a jumper on the connector, how could it be anything other than the flasher itself?
 
Bad connection for the flasher that you eliminate with a jumper. Use two jumpers and put the flasher between them
 
Bad connection for the flasher that you eliminate with a jumper. Use two jumpers and put the flasher between them

i tried that suggestion, it didn’t work.

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You have no juice going to the flasher from the switch. Confirm by test light at the flasher when you flip the switch. This circuit has nothing to do with park lights.
 
You have no juice going to the flasher from the switch.

I have juice there. I jumpered the connector and my turn signal switch lit up the lamps, no flashing of course but the lamps were lighting up with a jumper in place.
 
I’d like to put my .02 in here, but I’d only be guessing. I’m definitely watching! Hope you get it sorted!
 
I have 8.5 volts at the flasher connector with the key on
That is a KEY (CLUE) You don't have enough power. Either the battery is down or bad, or there as a VOLTAGE DROP AKA bad connection in the path from the battery---through firewall--ammeter circuit--to ignition switch connector--through switch--to FUSE PANEL--through fuse--to flasher
There is a HUGE DIFFERENCE between having "a lamp (or lamps) light" and having correct voltage
 
That is a KEY (CLUE)

With the key off I’m also measuring 8.5 volts at the fuse box.

Interestingly, on the engine side of the bulkhead connector I measure 12.6 at the black wire, but inside the cabin I measure 8.5 on the black wire. If I disconnect that connector, I’m still measuring 8.5 on the black wire inside the car.
 
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Just measured voltage from battery positive to ign at voltage regulator with key in run. 4.0 volt voltage drop.

if I have a 4.0 volt drop in the ignition, and my measurements on the black wire at the bulkhead are 12.5 inside the engine bay and 8.5 inside the cabin, is it that specific connection that is the problem?
 
Electrical(and more) is my kryptonite, but if you have a 4.0 volt drop, that's an issue(or soon will be). Check all connections, unfortunately something like this is "normal" maintenance, just like an oil change.
I bet if you get 12v to flasher it will work.
My battery voltage is 12.55.
 

With key in off I have battery voltage at the alternator.

With key in run I have serious voltage drop at the alternator, 3-4 volts.
 
Just measured voltage from battery positive to ign at voltage regulator with key in run. 4.0 volt voltage drop.

if I have a 4.0 volt drop in the ignition, and my measurements on the black wire at the bulkhead are 12.5 inside the engine bay and 8.5 inside the cabin, is it that specific connection that is the problem?
Yes and you have to "chase it." I outlined "the path." Check at the bulkhead, the key switch connector, and through the switch, and any other terminal. You do have a wiring diagram/ shop manual?
 
Yes I have the manual.

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to go behind the dash but I guess that’s where I’m headed.
You can check different points in the circuit by following the manual. They show an inline splice coming off the ignition switch, this is likely a "welded" factory splice. One branches off to the wipers, one branches to the hot ACC buss in the fuse panel, one to the flasher, and one to the cluster gauges (voltage limiter.) You should be able to pull the ignition switch and fuse panel out without much trouble. There are normally 3 "busses" in the panel. One is always hot, one receives ACC power which is the one you want here, and the last is the INST fuse.
 
I crawled up behind the dash and checked the readings at the ammeter. Red was battery and black was 9.5, I guess that’s the lions share of the drop. It was looking corroded on both posts.
 
You are saying red was 12 something and black was low? Yup. But now you are going to have to pull the cluster and fix it, or at least bolt the two wires together. Don't discount that the drop could be RIGHT THERE in one of the eyelet wire ends, as well
 
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