Uh oh, power steering bolt broke into number one cylinder?

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TimDart

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Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo..
I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out and then I checked as follows.
I then inserted a long (12”) cable Into the hole in the hope that it would hit the wall at the end of the thread. It doesn’t....it goes all the way in and some more.
Would I be correct in thinking this is because a previous owner has sued the wrong bolt and punctured number one cylinder bore? Pretty sure I’ve read about that.

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TimDart said:
Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo..
I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out and then I checked as follows.
I then inserted a long (12”) cable Into the hole in the hope that it would hit the wall at the end of the thread. It doesn’t....it goes all the way in and some more.
Would I be correct in thinking this is because a previous owner has sued the wrong bolt and punctured number one cylinder bore? Pretty sure I’ve read about that.

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I'd say you pretty much hit the nail on the head........your fix is to pull the engine, tear it down and sleeve the cylinder(s)
 
Ouch that really sucks I've heard about it happening but have never seen it.
 
JBurch said:
I'd say you pretty much hit the nail on the head........your fix is to pull the engine, tear it down and sleeve the cylinder(s)
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Thanks, just what I feared. Bad design. What’s worse is that someone has rebuilt that motor and sold it to me as good without noticing.
Live and learn I guess. Thanks for confirming,
 
dartfreak75 said:
Ouch that really sucks I've heard about it happening but have never seen it.
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It’s more common apparently. My friend has a dead 318 with the same problem. Also sold to him as good..
 
It is usually the builder that installs the cover with the wrong bolt that pierces the cyl. wall. I have seen many people removing the power steering and putting the same bolts back in without the bracket and ruining perfectly good motors. A sleeve can fix it. But if mine I would look for another block . You will need new rings a gasket kit and machine work to the block.

I have seen some repaired by filling the very bottom the coolant jacket with Hard block past the break, Cleaning the bore and reassemble. Make sure before putting hard block in you install Brass core plugs . If not filled above the plugs and they corrode you will never get the plugs out to replace them. Also put block seal in above the hard block so it doesn't seap. Only fill the block to a little above the top of the core plugs. I street drove and raced a 340 like that and it Lasted a long time.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I’m in the UK and motors are in short supply. I’ve put the car up for sale and I’m cutting my losses.
 
Pull number 1 plug and turn it over over by hand. Water come out?
 
Yeah, sooner or later. I had a leak into a cylinder. You could actually see the cylinder fill up through the plug hole. Didn’t want the water sitting in the cylinder until I got it home from the track. Drained the cooling system then turned it over by hand to get the standing water out. Spray a bunch of WD-40 into the cylinder to protect the bore. Had a small casting flaw in the intact tract.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
It is usually the builder that installs the cover with the wrong bolt that pierces the cyl. wall. I have seen many people removing the power steering and putting the same bolts back in without the bracket and ruining perfectly good motors. A sleeve can fix it. But if mine I would look for another block . You will need new rings a gasket kit and machine work to the block.

I have seen some repaired by filling the very bottom the coolant jacket with Hard block past the break, Cleaning the bore and reassemble. Make sure before putting hard block in you install Brass core plugs . If not filled above the plugs and they corrode you will never get the plugs out to replace them. Also put block seal in above the hard block so it doesn't seap. Only fill the block to a little above the top of the core plugs. I street drove and raced a 340 like that and it Lasted a long time.
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Excuse my ignorance, I’ve heard of hard block but no idea how it is installed. Just thought it was for racers
 
TimDart said:
Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo..
I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out and then I checked as follows.
I then inserted a long (12”) cable Into the hole in the hope that it would hit the wall at the end of the thread. It doesn’t....it goes all the way in and some more.
Would I be correct in thinking this is because a previous owner has sued the wrong bolt and punctured number one cylinder bore? Pretty sure I’ve read about that.

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I've never seen a bolt go through a cylinder wall in my life. The bolt would have to be like 2" long or better. It would take a lot of force to get a bolt to break through a cylinder wall, the only way that would be possible is for the bolt to be to long and it was installed with a impact gun.
 
TimDart said:
Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo..
I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out and then I checked as follows.
I then inserted a long (12”) cable Into the hole in the hope that it would hit the wall at the end of the thread. It doesn’t....it goes all the way in and some more.
Would I be correct in thinking this is because a previous owner has sued the wrong bolt and punctured number one cylinder bore? Pretty sure I’ve read about that.

View attachment 1715886786

View attachment 1715886787

View attachment 1715886788
Click to expand...
TimDart said:
Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo..
I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out and then I checked as follows.
I then inserted a long (12”) cable Into the hole in the hope that it would hit the wall at the end of the thread. It doesn’t....it goes all the way in and some more.
Would I be correct in thinking this is because a previous owner has sued the wrong bolt and punctured number one cylinder bore? Pretty sure I’ve read about that.

View attachment 1715886786

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Strange that this happened as it's difficult to get the bolts mixed up. Guess I've been lucky in this. This is why I always install the bolts by hand and use either a wrench or ratchet on the bolts.
 
Dan the man said:
The cylinder wall was already weak or of a thin wall casting
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When I searched for info I found quite a few posts about this problem. Some people have just used JB Weld. Anyway, as I said, I’m taking a hit and letting the car go. Too fed up to carry on with it now.
 
It does not take much force at all to break through the cylinder wall. Most times people poke through without knowing. Sorry to hear of your dilemma. If you were closer I could help you with a block.
 
Second one up from the bottom on the left/drivers side of the timing cover. If you take the power steering bracket off of a 340 and install the same bolt without the bracket you usually break the block . 318 and 360's are a very little more forgiving but not much.

You should determine the length you need with a wire or depth gauge if you are unsure .

In the engineering world any bolt only has the extend into the threaded hole the width of the bolt. Its a 3/8 bolt so 3/8 past / longer then the timing cover and gasket would be the correct length. If you are using a power steering bracket add that to the cover and the gasket plus 3/8. Its not a rocket science equation. You can go a tad longer then 3/8 into the threads but I wouldn't go crazy. Check the depth.

Oh yeah don't forget the washer on the bolt.
 
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Measured a 340, 360 and 3 318's. from the block face inwards to the cylinder the 318's averaged 654 thou. the 360 was 647 thou and the 340 was 623 thou. Add the front cover and gasket thickness to this (458 thou) and that bolt better have an under head length of less than 1.1 inch. Not allowing for washers or P/S bracket.
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Max1196 said:
Measured a 340, 360 and 3 318's. from the block face inwards to the cylinder the 318's averaged 654 thou. the 360 was 647 thou and the 340 was 623 thou. Add the front cover and gasket thickness to this (458 thou) and that bolt better have an under head length of less than 1.1 inch. Not allowing for washers or P/S bracket.
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Nice depth gauge. Anyone building a engine should always check the depth of every hole. Just to make sure the bolt tightens the part before bottoming in the hole. head bolts are also critical. you never know if there is an obstruction in the hole. My son has me go over every hole on an engine with thread chasers then blow them out with brake clean and air. You never know whats hiding in there.
 
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