1. justinp61

    justinp61 Well-Known Member

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    360's are pretty cheap around here. I'd just pick up another block and build away.
     
  2. 448Scamp

    448Scamp Running Free

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    How many miles did it run like that. If the hole is round and to size I’d use it and not think twice about it. That looks like casting issues and not a lifter bore failing. If you are going to run a big solid roller then I may not use it. For anything else it will be fine.
     
  3. Samsquanch

    Samsquanch Member

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    I'll try to reach out to him today my dilemma is, I was trying to build this with my son who suddenly has a fascination with old cars and motors and how they work. I was hoping to find a conditioned .030 over 360 block to build a 408 stroker and show him how to do the research and go to machine shops with him, since kids doing anything outside of staying in the house and playing on the internet is a rarity, I thought this would be a great opportunity to pass on some Valuable knowledge, I do have some skills with old cars albeit, I'm a bit rusty and everything I know is about Chevrolet's but luckily I found you guys.
    So what I'm trying to do is:
    find a .030 over 360 block
    have my son help with research on what running gear we want to run
    i.e. steel crank vs cast I beam vs H beam rods etc. Waiting for blueprint engines to go back to short block production might be a problem for you see I am dealing with the wife factor, I have to secretly save up to buy parts because she likes to stare at money in the savings acct go figure.
     
  4. diymirage

    diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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    well, one thing you may consider is the following...Johnny probably sees more short blocks in a day then most of us do in a year
    so it there is anyone on here who i would trust to tell me if the crack you are seeing in your block would be an issue, it is him


    secondly, why are you looking for a .030 over block AND taking the boy to machine shops?

    seems to me, if the block is .030 over, the machining is done, BUT if you are going to a machine shop anyway, who cares what the bore is? (provided you can bore over still, of course)


    if you really want him to do some research, why not pose the LA/magnum question to him?

    (if i were starting over, i wouldnt go with an LA, but that is me)
     
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    • Samsquanch

      Samsquanch Member

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      Machine shops because he's interested in whole cycle of engine/car restoration
      which means trips to body shops and all that jazz also, The LA vs Magnum is a great place to start because I have the same questions he is going to have but, from what I've lightly read about them some say LA some say magnum are the way to go.
       
    • Samsquanch

      Samsquanch Member

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      as far as the bore size goes I just figured .030 over was the least drastic way to go to get decent horsepower on pump gas and not have to spend a ton on pistons and heads, but please, if theres a better way I'm all ears/eyes
       
    • justinp61

      justinp61 Well-Known Member

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      I don't understand why you don't find a good standard bore block or core and have your machine shop bore and hone it? At least this way you know the quality of the machine work, assuming you use a good machine shop.
       
    • Samsquanch

      Samsquanch Member

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    • Samsquanch

      Samsquanch Member

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      It's hard to trust what your getting from junk yard blocks or private seller blocks, the person could be trying to recoup money they lost on a bad purchase and stick me with the loss, I got lucky once already and the guy is giving me back my money. just safer to do it with a guarantee backing it know what I mean?
       
    • justinp61

      justinp61 Well-Known Member

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      I guess I've been lucky as I've never bought an engine that the block was bad. Spun rod bearings, cracked head and wore out.....yes. The 360 that I built my 408 out of had three different pistons in it.
       
    • MOPAROFFICIAL

      MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I probably wouldn't stick roller in it, that's for sure!

      Think like this... the cam rotates clockwise the front of the engine seems to be to the right in the picture therefore... the thrust is opposite of the crack.
      Maybe skip using any lifter that has a band at the top like some do...or grind away the cracked portion and have the one lifter bore bushed.

      That block was exposed to the elements and probably had a puddle of water or something around or in that lifter bore and it rusted up bad..then somebody took a pic or something to break loose all the other rest while it was being cleaned and blasted at the shop and probably cracked it while prying away the loose bits. It was a core block from a machine shop maybe?
       
    • Jadaharabi

      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I would look for a 89-90? Roller cam LA 360 motor. It will have the 308 heads and usually a roller cam. Plus it is an LA 360 not a Magnum. So you can use LA parts on it like aluminum intakes.
       
    • replicaracer43

      replicaracer43 Grumpy Old Man

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      I agree with all you said, but those blocks are as hard to find as a 340 around these parts!
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      What does the inside of the lifter bore look like there? Does the crack extend to the inside? I tell you what I would do if you cannot see the crack inside the lifter bore. Take a small hand held grinder and gently dress where the "crack" is. See how far into the casting it goes. It may be that you grind right through it and grind it out, because it could be right on the surface and simply look worse than it is. Certainly worth the 10 minutes to try.
       
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