unilugs

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famous bob

famous bob

mopar misfit
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anyone ever run uni lug wheels w/ big h.p. ? I got a deal on some wheels from a fabo member , when they got here , they are uni lug, (I didn`t notice in his pics) altho heavier than I would like, I think they might help soften the hit on launch. my extra lug nuts from my prostars fill the large bolt pattern opening very well, but would have to be cut off as their too long. very little gap left in the lug openings. I even thot about making some metal fillers to slip inside whats left of the opening.--------- anyone ??
 
What's big HP?

Uni lug as in Cragers?
 
Ii have run them on an old big block Chevelle I had. Don't know the HP, but it total street trim with slicks, it went a best of 11.40s. Weighed about 3700 pounds.

I had the "good" kind of unilug wheels, which I would run again. The holes for the lugs were recessed ovals and had oval washers with offset holes. For one bolt pattern you installed the washers one way and for the other pattern you installed the washers 180* reversed. Those type unilug wheels I would stand behind.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ii have run them on an old big block Chevelle I had. Don't know the HP, but it total street trim with slicks, it went a best of 11.40s. Weighed about 3700 pounds.

I had the "good" kind of unilug wheels, which I would run again. The holes for the lugs were recessed ovals and had oval washers with offset holes. For one bolt pattern you installed the washers one way and for the other pattern you installed the washers 180* reversed. Those type unilug wheels I would stand behind.
Click to expand...
I have to agree with RRR. Some uni-lug wheels have a recess for that special washer (see pics above) which tends to make the mechanical aspect of the tightened nut more secure. I've seen other uni-lug wheels that do not have a recess, I'd wouldn't trust those nearly as much although people run them on the street.

Treblog???? Treblig
 
RustyRatRod said:
...and don't you forget it. LOL
Click to expand...
OK, OK.................LOL

One other thing that's important when it comes to using uni-lug wheels....many (most) cars center the wheel using the axle/hub register. Some uni-lug wheels have a large hole in the middle to fit more vehicles. If you don't have a snug fit to the register then it falls upon the lug nuts/lugs/wheel holes to center the wheel. A uni-lug wheel with no register (to center the wheel) puts a greater force on the elongated hole where the lug lives.....something to consider!!.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
OK, OK.................LOL

One other thing that's important when it comes to using uni-lug wheels....many (most) cars center the wheel using the axle/hub register. Some uni-lug wheels have a large hole in the middle to fit more vehicles. If you don't have a snug fit to the register then it falls upon the lug nuts/lugs/wheel holes to center the wheel. A uni-lug wheel with no register (to center the wheel) puts a greater force on the elongated hole where the lug lives.....something to consider!!.

Treblig
Click to expand...
thanks guys, but I don`t intend to use washers , they scare me a little. I was thinking of machining out some 1/2 moon fillers to fit in the oblong opening that would close the hole up to the righjt size before the shank lugnuts would be put in. Might be a pain to keep them all lined up when installing the nuts tho.
 
Treblig said:
OK, OK.................LOL

One other thing that's important when it comes to using uni-lug wheels....many (most) cars center the wheel using the axle/hub register. Some uni-lug wheels have a large hole in the middle to fit more vehicles. If you don't have a snug fit to the register then it falls upon the lug nuts/lugs/wheel holes to center the wheel. A uni-lug wheel with no register (to center the wheel) puts a greater force on the elongated hole where the lug lives.....something to consider!!.

Treblig
Click to expand...
need to check the center opening .
 
rumblefish360 said:
What's big HP?

Uni lug as in Cragers?
Click to expand...
----------------uinilug as in weld-centerline copies.
approx. 700h.p., not dyno`d, copied after 700h.p. engines that were run on dyno`s.---???? when I started building this thing, I wanted to drive it on the street, and do a little dragracing. It took me 7 yrs to build, and now I`m not so much wanting to race anymore, wishing I`d made more of a driver !
 
I am running Some 15 x 10 aluminum slots with 295s on them, on the street with just a 367 making 400 ftlbs or a bit better. I have run those with up to a 13.28 starter gear, and a clutch. I am at 3650#,me in it.
Doing the math on that, I get 13.28 x 400 x 12/13.5=maybe 4721 ftlbs to the pavement in first gear.
But I also had some steel centering rings fabricated, and installed, and run a large OD, thick,steel washer, on top of the steel oval washer, cuz the ovals were not strong enough to resist dishing with the tightening torque.
The washer dishing may be related to hard-cornering,I can't say,lol.......Then again if the tires don't hook,those washers are going for a free-ride.At least that's the way I see it.
I really like those Ansen-type slot mags.I think they are called ET-IIs

With your money, I would probably just weld the holes up and re-machine the correct holes in there,lol.
 
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famous bob said:
anyone ever run uni lug wheels w/ big h.p. ? I got a deal on some wheels from a fabo member , when they got here , they are uni lug, (I didn`t notice in his pics) altho heavier than I would like, I think they might help soften the hit on launch. my extra lug nuts from my prostars fill the large bolt pattern opening very well, but would have to be cut off as their too long. very little gap left in the lug openings. I even thot about making some metal fillers to slip inside whats left of the opening.--------- anyone ??
Click to expand...

What wheels are they?
 
@famosbob Maybe just drop the cam size down 20/30 degrees?
It don't know the build but rolling back to a street ride shouldn't be to hard.
 
famous bob said:
thanks guys, but I don`t intend to use washers , they scare me a little. I was thinking of machining out some 1/2 moon fillers to fit in the oblong opening that would close the hole up to the righjt size before the shank lugnuts would be put in. Might be a pain to keep them all lined up when installing the nuts tho.
Click to expand...

That's what the washers are Bob.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's what the washers are Bob.
Click to expand...
I`m thinking half moon pieces that fill the hole completely up. but on the other hand, the shank lugnuts really fit the outside of the holes very tightly, I don`think the oval shaped flat washer would help w/ anything, looks like their just to cover the holes to me.
 
rumblefish360 said:
@famosbob Maybe just drop the cam size down 20/30 degrees?
It don't know the build but rolling back to a street ride shouldn't be to hard.
Click to expand...
the cam doesn't seem to be a problem, other than the lsa is a little too wide for the fast 2.0 f.i. to tune out at very low throttle and idle. the 35-3800 convertor seems like a 4500 , it`s the biggest dete ' especially rant to me, but its livable I guess. "Especially when my 70 yr old *** has to get under the car on a cement floor to pull it out !" lol
 
famous bob said:
I`m thinking half moon pieces that fill the hole completely up. but on the other hand, the shank lugnuts really fit the outside of the holes very tightly, I don`think the oval shaped flat washer would help w/ anything, looks like their just to cover the holes to me.
Click to expand...

The correct washers do fill the hole completely.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The correct washers do fill the hole completely.
Click to expand...
Guess I`m going to have to look them up If they fill the hole, why are they called washers ? I have a couple of oblong washers that came w/ them, they just cover the extra part of the hole. Lost at this point. Haven`t got back to messing w/ them yet. RRR, 11.40`s in a 3700 pond car, ain`t no slouch.
 
Just so you know, there are two types of washers; type A with offset holes, and type B with centered holes.
Which washer you use, and which way you install it, depends on your bolt circle.

And this you probably know,but for those that might not;
The shank-nuts come in several lengths of shanks.Make sure yours don't bottom on the drums before tightening at the washers, and also make sure that there is plenty of shank to spread the drive-torque, and plenty of stud engaged.
 
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What kind of wheels are we talking about Bob? I added a 5 on 4 inch bolt pattern to these reproduction halibrands. They use mag style lug nuts rather than taper seat. I also made the stainless steel lug nuts. I agree with you that the unilug holes can be improved.

20161116_132124-1-1.jpg
 
Here's a look at Cragar standards and Uni washers..............
CragarWasher.jpg
 
AJ/FormS said:
Just so you know, there are two types of washers; type A with offset holes, and type B with centered holes.
Which washer you use, and which way you install it, depends on your bolt circle.

And this you probably know,but for those that might not;
The shank-nuts come in several lengths of shanks.Make sure yours don't bottom on the drums before tightening at the washers, and also make sure that there is plenty of shank to spread the drive-torque, and plenty of stud engaged.
Click to expand...
++++++++++++
yea, that`s why I said I`d have to cut the nuts down because the prostar nuts I have are too long. the two washers he sent are oblong but longer than the ones in the pics. The prostar nuts fill the holes very well, I think they`d work as is , w/ shortening. THE studs are 3" to start with, no problem there. I did some looking at them(mounted one) , and figured out that I can machine a wheel "bushing?', to exact fit the axle flange ring and the inner diameter of the wheel opening. After all that, I`m not sure it`s worth the trouble, for a 1/2" extra width on a perfect fitting wheel. I have exact spacers I made for the wrong offset prostars that I`m running. 275`s on one pair 295`s on another pair. not like I really need these things. 'SORRY FOR LONG POST" THANKS FOR THE INPUT.
 
Bob, here is how the washers work. You can see in this picture, how they are installed in the countersinks shown. As long as they are in good shape, they are very strong.

UNILUG.jpg
 
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