Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement

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dodgedart1968

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I'm replacing the upper and lower ball joints on my '68 Dart 270. I was planning to obtain a ball joint removal kit to do so.

I've read the factory manual replacement procedure several times, but I don't understand it.

Are special tools other than a standard ball joint kit required?
What is "front suspension full rebound?
Where is the torsion bar adjusting bolt, and once the load is removed from it, how is it re-loaded correctly?
Is there an easier to follow procedure available?
 
There is argument as to whether you "really need" a ball joint socket. Some guys have even used pipe wrenches. The height adjustment is the big bolt ---only one---"inside" the lower arm, pointing downwards

Jack the car up with jacks under the chassis---tires hanging free--"For reference" just unscrew the adjustors and count the turns roughly so you have some idea. You will feel obviously when they come "loose"

Not sure on rebound--you may have read where they are talking about moving the suspension to make certain it is not bound up while making adjustments. The tires move in/ out in "width" when the suspension moves, so if you are on solid pavement/ concrete, it can "bind" and not 'settle' to it's natural point. This would make any adjustments inaccurate

If you are going to this much trouble, and if you have no idea or even suspect that the front end is quite worn, I would SERIOUSLY consider replacing the rubber bushings--upper arms, lower arms, and the strut rod bushings
 
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Even with the tool for the upper ball joint, I've usually needed a long pipe to go over the breaker bar to get them loose. Ratchet wrench alone not even close to enough leverage, and a decent sized breaker bar also not enough. Helps to cuss, too.
 
Do not remove the upper A from the car prior to loosening the Upper BJ.

Otherwise you may need to re-install or build a jig, like in my case when the car shell left to be restored prior to doing such!

It still took my longest Pull bar and a cheater pipe to break it as, unknown to me with out prior cleaning both BJ's were previously tack welded!

Needless to say My "***" got a bit hurt on landing once they broke!

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When a manual refers to suspension in full rebound, it means the wheels and related components are hanging down freely; as they would be if the vehicle is jacked and supported by its frame, as opposed to under the control arms. There were /are two terms used to describe the movement of the suspension- jounce and rebound. Jounce is when the suspension compresses as in leaning downward on the body of the car, rebound is the opposite motion. Either direction, at the end of its travel range is "full."
 
I just removed two upper BJ's on a couple of Large Ball joint control arms today. I have the benefit of a heavy duty work bench and a hugh Vise. Even with the correct Ball joint sockets and a 3' 3/4" breaker bar, I still had to use heat to get them to break loose!
 
I also agree with 273's suggestion that if you're gonna replace the ball joints, might as well replace the bushings, too. At least look at them. Especially the lower control arm bushings.

Replacing the lower bushings will require, first, removing the torsion bars. Take the tension all the way off them, then (preferably) use a torsion bar removal tool, which is just a special clamp to clamp onto the bar, then smack the part hanging down with a sledge hammer to knock them back. Don't forget to remove the clips at the back of the bar before you do this. Then you unbolt the lower control arm shaft and (once the lower ball joint is disconnected) slide the lower control arm out.

Next you get to experience the super fun job of removing lower control arm bushings. You'll need a shop press for this, or else farm that part of the job out. Pushing the shaft out is pretty easy (with a press), but getting the bushing out can be a bugger. There's an inner and an outer shell, with rubber in between. Press out the inner shell, the bushing comes out easy, then attack the outer shell. Hammer and chisel time, or you can (very carefully) use an air cutoff wheel, making sure you only cut the bushing shell, and not the lower control arm. Or, the early sixties shop manual suggestion: a large tap screwed into the shell then pressed out. No fun, but if your lower bushings are worn out, everything else you do to the front won't make it handle right. (If you switch to urethane bushings, you used to re-use the outer shell. If that's still true, it does save you the time and effort to get the old bushing shell out.)

Then there's a potential problem with today's Moog lower control arm bushings. The ones I bought 3-4 years ago didn't fit. Well, they sort of did, but they wouldn't go all the way in. Turns out the lip had a rolled edge which prevented the bushing from fully seating. No amount of pressing or hammering would fully seat them. Yanked them out and bought Delcos. They fit. Have no idea if the mis-fitting Moogs are a continuing problem.

Below: Moog left, Delco right. The Delco bushing looks like the old Moog bushings did. The new Moogs are different. (By the way, thinking maybe the Moog bushings were simply mis-boxed, I ordered another set from a different vendor. Got the same weird-looking bushings.)

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Again, Moog left, Delco right. Note the rolled lip on the Moog vs the much flatter lip on the Delco.

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Next, Moog installed. Note that the lip does not sit flush.

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Finally, Delco installed. Note how well it fits

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Get a friend who has done them before help you..injuries can happen.
The service manual is pretty straight forward. If you don't quite understand it, ask for help. It is ok to ask, not always ok not to..
 
I'm replacing the upper and lower ball joints on my '68 Dart 270. I was planning to obtain a ball joint removal kit to do so.

I've read the factory manual replacement procedure several times, but I don't understand it.

This statement worries me you do understand that the upper ball joints unscrew from the control arm correct ? They are NOT pressed in as in needing a ball Joint press.
 
This statement worries me you do understand that the upper ball joints unscrew from the control arm correct ? They are NOT pressed in as in needing a ball Joint press.
I think you are the first person to understand my original posting. I wasn't aware that they had to be unscrewed. When I cleaned them yesterday, I noticed that the top piece accepted a socket. Will loaner ball joint kit include a suitable socket? If not, what size socket it is required?
(I found Mopar ball joint sockets listed online. They are 1-59/64 in. Is that correct for my drum brake equipped Dart?)
 
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I think you are the first person to understand my original posting. I wasn't aware that they had to be unscrewed. When I cleaned them yesterday, I noticed that the top piece accepted a socket. Will loaner ball joint kit include a suitable socket? If not, what size socket it is required?
(I found Mopar ball joint sockets listed online. They 1 59/64 in. Is that correct for my Dart?)

Does your car have 9 inch or 10 inch brakes.
 
I think you are the first person to understand my original posting. I wasn't aware that they had to be unscrewed. When I cleaned them yesterday, I noticed that the top piece accepted a socket. Will loaner ball joint kit include a suitable socket? If not, what size socket it is required?
(I found Mopar ball joint sockets listed online. They are 1-59/64 in. Is that correct for my Dart?)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KNZV4/?tag=fabo03-20
 
Question: I've seen the balljoint removal tool that puts pressure on the BJ studs. Is it possible to remove the BJ's from the knuckle using a pickle fork, or do I need the spreader tool?
 

That is the correct socket. What I did years ago ( pre internet ) was to take a Craftsman 1 3/4 3/4 drive socket I had and ground out 4 points of the socket inside using a die grinder and made a socket to fit the ball joint. Back then only Snap On made the correct socket.

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Question: I've seen the balljoint removal tool that puts pressure on the BJ studs. Is it possible to remove the BJ's from the knuckle using a pickle fork, or do I need the spreader tool?

If your not reusing the ball joint then yes. But another way is to rap with a hammer on the side of the spindle boss after loosening the stud nut. I would leave the nut on the stud to keep it from dropping when it comes loose. By the way keep a jack under the lower control arm because of the torsion bar tension on that arm. If you are going to rebush the lower arm then you will need to take the torsion bar out. Also penetrating oil is your friend I happen to like PB Blaster which is widely available.
 
Question: I've seen the balljoint removal tool that puts pressure on the BJ studs. Is it possible to remove the BJ's from the knuckle using a pickle fork, or do I need the spreader tool?
Remove the upper ball joint stud nut and then reinstall it upside down until flush with stud end. Remove the cotter pin from the lower BJ nut and slip a deep socket over top. Find something to fill the gap between socket and upper nut. I use milling machine clamp wedges. Then "undo" the upper stud nut and get it as tight as you can against the socket and then give the knuckle a rap with a 5 lb and pop..
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Lack of knowledge is the exact reason for assistance from someone who does have it.
Funny you said someone finally answered the question. You said you read the FSM which tells you it is threaded on the upper.
Everyone just assumed you understood that it is threaded. Always have been.
This service has hazards. get an assistant.
 
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"Read the manual"
(RTFM) Which stands for "Read the F....F...F.....Fu........"Factory" Manual"

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There are two sizes of ball joint sockets. The small one is for drum brakes Do all 10 brakes use the large one? not sure

LOOSEN the joint while still in the car BEFORE removing anything else such as the stud. This will give you a "stable platform" with which you can apply the socket and a big -***- breaker bar and pipe


"will cut threads.........."

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Success! Left front stripped down. Just waiting for Amazon to deliver the upper ball joint socket tomorrow.
Thx to all.

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I am aware that the FSM says to unload the torsion bars. All of the YouTube videos I've viewed for both coil spring and torsion bar suspension used this method. In addition, I've done numerous coil spring ball joints this way. The car is on jacks and the lower control arm support is stable. Please explain why you think this is hazardous.
 
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