Upper control arm removal

Suspension, Steering and Chassis

  1. Heywodja

    Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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    Any tips on removing the upper control arm cam bolts?.. seems like they are frozen into the bushings, so I cant drive them out of the body mounts because it is hard to get a hammer in to drive them out ..
     
  2. Heywodja

    Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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    i borrowed someone else's photo to show what i am referring to
    uppers.jpg
     
  3. jos51700

    jos51700 Green Bearing thread connoisseur

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    The 3 P's of cam bolts....Penetrating oil, prybars, and propane.

    Kan-o-Kroil is a good penetrating oil if you can find it. Also Mopar makes a good one with graphite in it. Heat the bolts to break the vulcanizing, not the arm. Get 'em hot and keep cranking till they spin round n' round, then prybars to push/drive 'em out.
     
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    • krazykuda

      krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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      Heat them up and turn them until they spin...

      Then pry under the washer head of the bolt to get it out... I also have an air chisel that sometimes helps drive the bolts out...
       
    • MRGTX

      MRGTX Well-Known Member

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      The guys above are offering good advice...before putting the "flame wrench" to them, I suggest drenching them in the penetrating oil, letting them sit for at least overnight.

      Don't take this as an insult but be sure to pay attention to the direction of the threads. It seems obvious but when you're working with your head stuffed in the wheel well, it's not impossible to imagine losing orientation. One nut will require the wrench be pushed "up" and the other "down."

      Are you sure there isn't enough room for a hammer? I was able to do it.

      Good luck! Keep us posted.
       
    • RedFish

      RedFish Well-Known Member

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      There is a swiveling impact socket that will go there. Remove everything else so you can work over and under the arm. I suggest you try everything short of a torch first. If you should set the bushing rubber afire, thick black smoke will fill the wheel well. I have had to go the cutting torch route and purchase new hardware. Luckily had a fan handy. Good luck
       
    • Brad4406

      Brad4406 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Last resort once all these ideas have been extinguished, use an air die grinder with a cut off wheel. Cut between the bracket and the control arm as you will be replacing the bushings anyway. Once you cut far enough that you can't use the cutoff wheel without cutting frame or inner fender, use a hacksaw blade until you've weakend the bolt enough that you can pry the nut and shaft off. Then you can use a punch and a hammer to drive what's left of the bolts out. I say last resort as you will have to replace the cam bolts after using this procedure.
       
      Last edited: Jul 10, 2017
    • dukeboy_318

      dukeboy_318 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I had to cut mine with a torch. Warning, it gets smokey quick. QA1 sells a complete set of replacement cam bolts for 30 bucks.
       
    • Heywodja

      Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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      Thanks I was thinking that the bolt had to be in a certain orientation.. I soaked them in penetrating oil I will see what they do tonite
       
    • hemi71x

      hemi71x FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Last edited: Jul 10, 2017
      • Like Like x 1
      • Heywodja

        Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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        lol I watched your thread last night
         
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        • hemi71x

          hemi71x FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Wrong, not so.
          They are $50.00, on their web site page.
           
        • dukeboy_318

          dukeboy_318 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          theyve gone up in price then since I ordered mine last year. my bad.
           
        • mopowers

          mopowers Well-Known Member

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          I've had good luck using lots of penetrating lube and an air hammer. Sounds like you've already gotten the nuts off. You're halfway there. Don't give into the hot wrench yet!
           
        • Heywodja

          Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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          My last option was the two bottle wrench simply because I don't own one lol
           
        • Heywodja

          Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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          Propane torch worked like butter.. thanks all
           
        • Dfr360cuda

          Dfr360cuda Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.

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          If you're reusing these UCAs and replacing ball joints...
          Remove the ball joints before you remove the UCAs from the car.
          It's a lot easier than than putting them in a vice and less chance of bending them.
           
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          • Heywodja

            Heywodja The Heartbeat Stops Here FABO Gold Member

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            Thanks

             
          • Kernel Sanders

            Kernel Sanders eating chicken wings and drinking beer

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            How timely this thread I'll be doing this next weekend but I'm also replacing both front frame-rails too... my first time and I'm sure I'm in for some fun lol

            I've already removed the engine, trans, fenders, clip and bumper... one lower control arm and torsion bar... the other bar is being a pita. I don't want to damage the bars as they were replaced only 10 years ago. We'll see how much further I get next weekend

            and yes ALL rubber bushings and joints are being replaced so I wont have to 'look' at it again for a very long time lolololol
             
            Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
          • Kernel Sanders

            Kernel Sanders eating chicken wings and drinking beer

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            double post
             
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