valiant driver suspension

[torred0319]

rebuilding my 68 valiant need opinions on suspension. I'm trying to keep car true to what it is. 340 4 speed 3.23 8 3/4 gear weekend driver. Not a race car not. I'm keeping the torsion bar suspension. I have a bunch of parts. I'm gonna sell of what i dont use to help fund the project. unfortunatly i'm better at buying stuff than finishing this project. The car has subframe connectors they are fully welded so they are staying. it had a relocation kit its going away they were not done correctly and need redone anyway. I did buy a core support stiffner and torque boxes from us car tool. "Not done yet" I do need to replace front k fame butchered up bad and its a 67 odd ball. so out with everyhing start over but what???? Oh i just bought ps gear box from bergman autocraft new borgenson box because im getting old and want power steering.
things I have
73 spool k frame clean no motor mounts
71k frame clean with motor mounts and torque strap
ffi k frame gusset kit new in package
ffi tubular uppers control arms large ball joint
stock 73 upper arms pst bushings new ball joints powder coated
73 tabbed lower control arms boxed with polygraphite lower bushings rusty need blased and re powder coated
71 lower arms tabbed new in package moog bushings and new in package boxing plates
2 sets of 73 spindles
newish 73 stock disc brakes
used 11 3/4 rotors with wilwood calipers
stock 71 strut rods
ffi adjustable strut rods used
ffi hd tie rods used
71 center link
new in package bilstein shocks all 4
ffi new sway bar dont remember the size
few diffrent torsion bars i need to check what they are i think stock 340s 990's 1.03s not sure
for the rear i have stock 71duster leaf springs and a set of nos p4529415 oval track springs
my plan was offset shackles and use the stock wheel wells. the axle housing i have has perchs moved in so i bought the hangers.

My question is should i use this stuff or sell it and go qa1 k frame or full kit of maybe hotchkis what mods are worth doing what are a waist of time... I want to stay under 2.5k for suspension and would like to use some of what i have but im getting confused on what to use so many options. just looking for a modernish driver that does not creak, squeak, shake my teeth out. but not drive like its 50 years old either.. i really dont want a ton of modifications kinda want the stuff to fit too..

 

[Valkman]

I have a stock HD suspension sub frame connectors, and aftermarket sway bars 11.75 cop brakes and it handles and stops pretty dam good. I guess it all depends on how radical you want to go.

The tires were the main limiting factors when these cars were new

 

[Jim Lusk]

You've got some good parts. Go with the circle track rear springs and the largest torsion bars you have with the '73 k-member and sway bar along with the '73 disc brakes. It would be a good idea to build a big bolt 8-3/4. For handling keep the rear springs in the stock location. Go with good 60-series 15" radials that fit the car (215 or 225).

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Use all the 73 stuff but don't and I mean don't use the lower poly bushings. Use the factory rubber and tighten the nuts on all of the control arms while holding the suspension at ride height before you crank the torsion bars. Tightening them while the suspension is hanging will cause the bushings to rip off of the sleeves on the first hard dip in the road.

The poly bushings float inside the original bushing sleeves that is why you leave them in for the poly bushing install. The problem with that is the arm will float front and rear causing the car to wonder at higher speeds. The torsion bar clips do not stop this movement.

My son and I are trying to come up with a bearing install to free up the lift on a launch. But we are going to use a snap ring with a torington surface bearing and a bolt.

The factory bushings last a long time if installed properly in the arm and then adjusted correctly when replacing the arms. The adjustable struts are good. We used hymned joints they thread right on but tabs must be welded to the K-member

This k- member will be used on our new build. It was cut for ease to work on the motor in the car. Note the 73 steering linkage It is a better set up . It will be dropped by lengthening the pitman and idler. This straightens the tie rods and you get less movement and drag of the toe on a launch and pull through the 1/4.

Don't get me wrong some of the new K-members with racks are superior. But the cost here is far less because they are factory used parts being modified at your garage.

 

[torred0319]

You've got some good parts. Go with the circle track rear springs and the largest torsion bars you have with the '73 k-member and sway bar along with the '73 disc brakes. It would be a good idea to build a big bolt 8-3/4. For handling keep the rear springs in the stock location. Go with good 60-series 15" radials that fit the car (215 or 225).

the rear axle i have is 489 8 3/4 has small 10 brakes but is 5x4.5 has yukon axles already my only plans were new seals and upgrade to 1350 u yoke

 

[torred0319]

if i use 73 suspension stuff i will need to find 73 center link and a good motor mounts. ones that actually fit without a stack of washers...