Value of unknown 400 engine.

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Pascamp

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I have a lead on a complete, yet disassembled 400 engine(carb to pan). Supposedly it's a 76 with 78,000 miles that ran fine when pulled. It's disassembled, oiled, and bagged....and I trust this description as far as I could throw the engine. I'm limited to a pair of calipers, as my father has my other stuff in Florida. The guy wants $400, and all I'm really interested in is the block. This seems like a descent gamble to me percentage wise. Sound like good odds to you guys?
 
I'd offer $300 unless the block was just too cherry to leave behind. You can usually tell if the block is good by just looking at it but those are rare.
 
You actually never know what you're getting so you have to get it as cheap as possible in case there's a problem. If it was in the car and running, well ......that would totally different. You'll be very angry if you pay $400 only to find that it's all jacked up. Treblig
 
DO you know how to tell the difference between a cast and forged crank? It "could" still be a steel crank engine as the "kept on" doing that with trucks and especially trucks with manual transmissions. Find the parting line on the crank flange in the back. It will be on the very outside edge of the circumference of the flange. If it is no wider than a #2 pencil lead, it's cast. If the parting line is somewhere "around" 1/2" wide, it's forged. Course "I" would look very inconspicuously. LOL

Also, a lot of people think this 400 block or that 400 block is somehow "better". That's hogwash. One might be better "one way" and the other "another way" but that's splittin hairs at its finest. They are all about equal. Good luck!
 
$250. That way if the block is a boat anchor you'll probably to quickly recoup your cost between what you'll be able to sell and scrap value for what you can't.
 
Sounds like the seller knows they are a hot comity for strokers. Offer him $100 less and go from there. They were boat anchors before the stroker thing caught on.
 
"Apart." Very easy for this or that or those fasteners/ hardware/ etc to become lost, and they add up quick, 10, 20, 50 bucks a hit. On the one hand you can inspect it. On the other, stuff might have wallked off
 
Sounds like the seller knows they are a hot comity for strokers. Offer him $100 less and go from there. They were boat anchors before the stroker thing caught on.
I talked to the guy on the phone. He's got a roadrunner that he was going to hot rod, but changed his mind and is doing a resto. He's got the numbers matching 383. He supposedly pulled this motor from a running rust bucket he bought for the motor for $400. The guy gave off a good vibe.
 
That's cool and all.....but remember, your wallet has a vibe too. lol Keep us posted!
 
I'd try $300, maybe he'll meet you in the middle.
A guy has one for sale out here and claims its the "rare, thick wall block" and is asking $1000 bucks for it. Wow..
 
I'd try $300, maybe he'll meet you in the middle.
A guy has one for sale out here and claims its the "rare, thick wall block" and is asking $1000 bucks for it. Wow..

Exactly the bullshittery I was talkin about.
 
That's cool and all.....but remember, your wallet has a vibe too. lol Keep us posted!
I'm gonna check it out later this week. The guy is a neighbor of one of my customers, and the engine is not currently listed anywhere for sale. So at least there's some connection there, and not a random Craigslist deal.

Well, maybe my car will actually get a Mopar engine after all. If it doesn't work out I'll make valvetrain and connecting rod wind chimes, and drop in the LS. Lol
 
I'm gonna check it out later this week. The guy is a neighbor of one of my customers, and the engine is not currently listed anywhere for sale. So at least there's some connection there, and not a random Craigslist deal.

Well, maybe my car will actually get a Mopar engine after all. If it doesn't work out I'll make valvetrain and connecting rod wind chimes, and drop in the LS. Lol

And don't let anyone make you feel bad if you do the LS swap. The only thing I'm not really crazy about there is, they are everywhere.......but that's really Mopar's fault for not having a more affordable modern alternative than the damned GEN III Hemi.
 
I'd offer $300 unless the block was just too cherry to leave behind. You can usually tell if the block is good by just looking at it but those are rare.
When it comes to old v8 long blocks it's about a 1-2 dollars per cid or so. Depending on what ya got.

Crank costs x 75-100?
Block costs x 200+?
Head cost x 80-100?
Rods cost x 50-100?

It adds up.
 
Another caveat to keep an eye on is diamond markings on the I/D pad indicating.008 O.S. lifters, unless you plan on bushing the lifter bores.
 
When it comes to old v8 long blocks it's about a 1-2 dollars per cid or so. Depending on what ya got.

Crank costs x 75-100?
Block costs x 200+?
Head cost x 80-100?
Rods cost x 50-100?

It adds up.

I'll go along with that, plus it's also a regional thing as well. Stuff here is pretty cheap, whereas another location maybe not so much.
 
A buddy built a nice (not radical) 30 over 440 with some ported iron heads and it dyno'd at a tick less than 500 horse. I have read a few magazine articles where 400 strokers put out around 550 horse. I don't know if the added expense is worth the 50 horse.
 
A buddy built a nice (not radical) 30 over 440 with some ported iron heads and it dyno'd at a tick less than 500 horse. I have read a few magazine articles where 400 strokers put out around 550 horse. I don't know if the added expense is worth the 50 horse.
they are smaller too being a B not an RB. that can make a difference, if only for headers and general maintenance.
neil.
 
Reliability at high rpm usage with lighter reciprocating mass and the quicker revs that go with it are the main advantages. At one time, one disadvantage is the lack of 2-5/8 bore premium performance main bearings. This made it desirable to line bore the block to the 2-3/4 inch bearing size, further adding expense to the build.
 
When it comes to old v8 long blocks it's about a 1-2 dollars per cid or so. Depending on what ya got.

Crank costs x 75-100?
Block costs x 200+?
Head cost x 80-100?
Rods cost x 50-100?

It adds up.

Clean out your inbox, dork.
 
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