Valve adjusting on a Solid cam

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Mopardude

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I went through and adjusted my lash on all my valves. There are a few that seem to make a ticking sound. I know solid valve train is supposed to be noisy but this is my first one so I dunno if this is normal. I will have to play with it more to be sure but it almost seems its only a couple of them doing it. Maybe I incorrectly adjusted them? Any suggestions or info would be appreciated
 
Well I went throught them and this is what I came up with. It seems to be only doing it on one of the heads. When the valves are closing it almost seems they get stuck than they snap up making the noise. These are Edlebrock performer alum heads. They have been sitting for about a year. I bought them brand new for this engine ran them for about 200 miles till I blew up the motor and they have been siitting since. Is it possible to valve seats are dry causing them to stick?
 
Dude, here is a link to Cranes web site and info about adjusting valves, excellent info.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2
I set one cylinder at a time as it suggests. I do not like jumping around from cyl to cyl like the Mopar card suggests. As far as the valve sticking we need some more info. Cam size, springs and rockers being used. I would check to see if the bottom of a rocker arm is hanging up on the spring retainer. I have been told by many engine builders that they find the Edelbrock valve guides to run very tight clearances and they recommend disassembly and honing the guides before use. I dont think a seat would cause that kind of problem without causing other major problems first. Also, check the retainer and lock for that cylinder to make sure they look good and havent mushroomed over or galled the valve stem.

Remember that you need to have the lash the cam manufacturer recommends but must compensate -.006 if you set them cold with aluminum heads.

When you blew the motor did you bend any pushrods are possibly bend a valve?
 
BigEdsGarage said:
Dude, here is a link to Cranes web site and info about adjusting valves, excellent info.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2
I set one cylinder at a time as it suggests. I do not like jumping around from cyl to cyl like the Mopar card suggests. As far as the valve sticking we need some more info. Cam size, springs and rockers being used. I would check to see if the bottom of a rocker arm is hanging up on the spring retainer. I have been told by many engine builders that they find the Edelbrock valve guides to run very tight clearances and they recommend disassembly and honing the guides before use. I dont think a seat would cause that kind of problem without causing other major problems first. Also, check the retainer and lock for that cylinder to make sure they look good and havent mushroomed over or galled the valve stem.

Remember that you need to have the lash the cam manufacturer recommends but must compensate -.006 if you set them cold with aluminum heads.

When you blew the motor did you bend any pushrods are possibly bend a valve?
Click to expand...

Yes my lash is set properly.

Here is what I have.

Cam: CompCam @50 236/242 .502/.511 Solid
Springs: The springs that come on edelbrock heads
Rods: 7.75 O.A ball & cup 5/16 stem
Rockers: CompCam Magnum roller rockers 1.5 ratio

The bottom of the rocker isn't hanging up on the spring retainer. Nothing is mushroomed over or galled the cam and rushrods are brand new and the heads and rockers only have 200 miles on them. When i blew up this motor it threw the cap for the # 1 cyclinder and it did come up and bend those valves but I replaced them and that head isn't having this problem. It's only the other head thats doing it.
 
I just ran back out to the garage to see if I could get you more info. I think I was wrong about the valve sticking. It might be the inner valve spring.
 
***Update***

I think I figured out what the problem was. When I was putting on the rockers I would back the adjustments all the way out, because I figured when i torqued the shaft down I would want the oppsing forces of open valves. But no matter what it seems your allways going to have a valve or 2 open and because the adjustmentwere all the way up the pushrods weren't getting centered right. So I did that opposite and had the adjustments turned down so the ball ends seated in the cups good and tightened them down and all is good now.
 
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